How to - Dyson DC24 Motor Change

[beko1987]

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I had this in recently for a dead brushroll, and before I even got round to that, I noticed that the motor sounded a bit peaky...

Quick message to the owner and he agreed to a new motor, and once I got the brushroll diagnosed, a new brushroll motor too. The parts arrived last week, and I got to it. Realising there is no how to guide for the main motor (apart from one buried in another thread), I thought I would give it a try!

INGREDIENTS:
New DC24 Motor assembly - https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC24-motor-917281-02-YV-07K24

New Post motor Filter - https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC24-Post-Motor-HEPA-Filter
T-25 Torx driver

So, wand, hose and cyclone off and out of the way.

Recline the machine.



Undo these three screws





You want to unplug this connector block



Next, you need to remove this thin white wire from the plug



because, as you can see, it needs to plug into the block on the new motor



Using a tiny screwdriver/pin/SWMBO's tweezers, push the locking tab up, and the connector pulls out





Then, remove the screw as shown.

Over to the other side, and remove the lower hose



Then remove this screw that sits under the hose



Remove the filter cover, and the filter



Rotate the ball so you can see the 4 screws, and remove them. Lift off one side of the ball, then rotate the other side and lift off the other. Pulling gently on one side, pull until the motor assembly pops out of the locating holes in the chassis



The Yolk comes off easily now



You need to salvage these three bits off the motor housing. If your tiny cog is ruined, you need one of these - https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC24-Bearing-Ball-923685-01



Take the larger cog. If it sounds a bit dry when rotating, pop it apart and smear grease over the ball-race. Then, fit it to the motor housing, so the locating lugs align with the motor housing cutouts, and the large lug protects the cables



Clean up and refit the seal



Fit the other bearing onto the spindle on the other side, then slide the housing back into the yolk



Then slide the yolk and motor housing back onto the chassis, the small cog side fits into the chassis, and the 3 screw holes on the wiring side must line up



Refit both screws onto either side of the motor housing. Then, plug the small wire into the new connector block



and plug the connectors together, and tuck the cables into their respective places



Refit the ball by placing one side over the bearings, rotating it to the back and placing the other side on top. Screw up and check for smooth operation



Fit your shiny new filter to give the new motor a great start in life



Refit the cable cover



Refit the side hose, (and the cleaner head if you removed it) and check the recline operation for smoothness. Hopefully, you should be job jobbed!

Intregued as to the state of the old motor, I whipped it out of the housing and popped the fancase off





If it didnt spark visibly through the housing with the filter removed I migth have been tempted to clean it up and save it, but it was too far gone sadly, killed by paper...

Hope this helps anyone out there attempt this quite easy job!

[macman]

Nice one beko, really clear pics as always. Any chance of doing one for the DC25 next time you've got one in for a motor change please?
I've yet to do a motor change on a Ball model, though I did start my first cylinder one yesterday (a DC19). They're ridiculously easy and quick compared to a DC07/14 etc.

[MVacs]

Very strong tutorial. 

I'm going to link it from the DC24 motor page and sticky it. 

[beko1987]

Thank you very much! 

I havent got any 25's in at the moment, if anyone wants to give me one I'll happily do a how to though...

[eyemdee]

What a superb guide! I have just changed the motor in a DC24 for the first time and could not have attempted it without this tutorial.

A couple of points I noticed and got a bit stuck on are worth mentioning. BTW the Torx driver reqired is Tx15 not Tx25.

On the photo showing the disconnection of the thin white wire from the connector (took me ages to release it), it is worth mentioning that the thin red wire connected to the switch just next to it also needs to be disconnected in order to separate the yoke from the chassis.

Finally, when reassembling the motor assembly to the yoke, there are 2 flimsy lugs on the yoke which need to mate with 2 cutouts on the motor. It is easy to break one or both of the lugs if you don't spot them and just try and push the motor in without lining them up first.

Thanks again for an excellent guide.

[AdamF]

It's been said already but this guide has been so helpful thank you for taking the time to do it.

[beko1987]

No problem at all! 

Keep meaning to do threads on how to change motors on other machines but by the time I remember, the job is done and the machine is out the door!

[ryevac]

Thanks for the info Beko.

I just done one, however it was revealed to be front side bearing past it's best, did repack both with grease but it sounded a bit grumbly now and again.
Put it aside for a rainy day as a spare - see if i can find bearing for it.

Not sure on size, should have measured with digi caliper then when i serviced motor. Hoping an old 07/14 motor may have right size bearing.

[beko1987]

That would be cool, since 24 motors are so expensive, if it's an easy/cheap job it might be worth a try. I've got a bin find 24 in the shed that I've done nothing with, if you find a way to do it I could replicate it and run it for a month to test? (assuming it works at all, was soaking wet when I picked it up)

[ryevac]

i need to buy another bearing puller !
cannot find mine in the garage - loaned it out no doubt and forgot to whom... probably the same person who has my torque wrench.
i will get one ordered and strip the motor again and get back to you...