Author Topic: Dyson DC25 Stripdown and Refurb (Read 137255 times)

dcsmith · « **Reply #30 on:** August 02, 2015, 01:44:04 am »

This is amazing and saved me from getting the dyson repaired or replaced

beko1987 · « **Reply #31 on:** August 02, 2015, 08:30:29 am »

Ah thats brilliant to hear! What was wrong with yours?

dcsmith · « **Reply #32 on:** August 02, 2015, 08:40:21 am »

The red plastic piece had come off it's hinges, I had to take off the side and forgot how it went back together. The pictures made all the difference as one of the springs had come off.

beko1987 · « **Reply #33 on:** August 02, 2015, 08:48:54 am »

Aaah yes, that spring can be a pain, especially if its been missing for a while, the pedal wont flick up and lock the machine up!

austinmilt · « **Reply #34 on:** August 28, 2015, 05:36:16 pm »

Apologies in advance if this is the wrong thread, but it's the first I found from my Google search.

I just got a used DC25 (yellow) off ebay and out of the box the cleaner head seems to not work. I have checked every electrical connection from the power button down to the leads on the brush roll motor, and it all seems fine. The motor is definitely getting power. I was even able to get the motor to run slowly with 2 AAA batteries (3V) and some wires. But for whatever reason, the 10+V coming from the vacuum power dont do squat. Any ideas as to what might be wrong?

beko1987 · « **Reply #35 on:** August 28, 2015, 05:51:59 pm »

Have you checked the loom wires? https://manchestervacs.co.uk/DysonForum/index.php/topic,1670.0.html

Failing that, have you got a multimeter to be able to test the pcb? Someone will have to remind me of the voltage you should be looking for though.

If the motor works (never thoight to try one witj batteries, thats a good idea!) then its either the loom as linked or the pcb.

beko1987 · « **Reply #36 on:** August 28, 2015, 05:53:03 pm »

And, silly question, have you checked the brushroll button is on, the one by the main power switch. You could even bridge the connections under the switch to confirm, if youve hooked the brushroll motor up to a battery you should be able to do that!

austinmilt · « **Reply #37 on:** August 28, 2015, 05:56:27 pm »

Thanks for your speedy reply. I have checked that power to the brush roll motor is low (a few volts) when the cleaner head button is off, and the voltage increases to around 10V when the cleaner head button is engaged. There are no broken wires along the stretch from the button to the motor (obviously, I guess, but I checked them anyway).

[EDIT] WAIT! I found a broken white wire on that section. Strange, since there was power on both wires coming to the motor. I will fix and confirm it works.

Tech12 · « **Reply #38 on:** August 28, 2015, 06:02:23 pm »

If I remember correctly it should be 220-240v AC out of machine & approximately 330v DC from the PCB to the motor.
Just checked & those are the readings that Mvacs / Dysontech list.

Those readings are for UK machines, for US machines the voltages from the machine would be 110-120v AC.

austinmilt · « **Reply #39 on:** August 28, 2015, 06:14:25 pm »

Success! Sorry for the mysterious post when the culprit was solved long ago. I thought I had checked all the connections from top to bottom but had apparently missed that one. Thanks very much for your help.

beko1987 · « **Reply #40 on:** August 28, 2015, 06:49:03 pm »

Excellent! A solder repair may work, or a new loom isnt much money. Its on a pivot point, so may break again more easily if repaired

MVacs · « **Reply #41 on:** August 28, 2015, 10:47:05 pm »

Quote from: beko1987 on August 28, 2015, 05:51:59 pm

If the motor works (never thought to try one with batteries, that's a good idea!)

Better to test the resistance on the motor with a meter. Batteries? Batteries kick out DC (tech will tell me if I am wrong) and while a couple may make it nudge round, you will need 220 of them connected in series to make 330 DC.