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Author Topic: Tutorial: Replacing the Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor.  (Read 101270 times)

Offline beko1987

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Re: Tutorial: Replacing the Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor.
« Reply #30 on: November 13, 2015, 04:45:38 pm »
Gosh my rug needed a vacuum that day!
Collector and restorer of vintage vacuums, Dyson Appreciator! Come and see my blog, where I am uploading all my mountains of brochures, manuals and other vacuum cleaner paperwork, and also my youtube channel @beko1987!

Offline John7691

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Re: Tutorial: Replacing the Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor.
« Reply #31 on: September 30, 2016, 03:25:13 am »
OK, all good now. Motor back in and bar rotates well.

One question: How should I re-fix the rubber strip, which was removed about step two in the disassembly?

I was thinking of contact adhesive.  Just pushing it back in doesn't seem like a good enough solution.  What do you do?

Great video though; really easy to do the job with that support.

John


Offline MVacs

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Re: Tutorial: Replacing the Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor.
« Reply #32 on: September 30, 2016, 06:35:46 am »
Just pushing it back in doesn't seem like a good enough solution. 

It just slides in John. It will feel a bit loose but that is how they are.

Offline John7691

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Re: Tutorial: Replacing the Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor.
« Reply #33 on: October 31, 2016, 01:31:33 am »
I'm still having a problem with retaining the thin rubber strip underneath.  I tried to slide it back in but it works loose.  Pushing it in doesn't work either.

I don't want to stick it with contact adhesive in case I need to remove it again.  What should I do?

BTW, the roller bar works fine now with the new motor.
John


Offline beko1987

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Re: Tutorial: Replacing the Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor.
« Reply #34 on: October 31, 2016, 08:45:02 am »
It should just push in and 'click' at a few points along the way. It goes in quite deeply It won't slide, you need to get a small flatblade, look for the little tabs that the strip click behind and push!

It's not mission critical though, it makes it work slightly better on hard floors, but you should have the brushroll off on hard floors so as not to burn out the motor too quickly (it relies on the drag of carpet to slow it down to a workable speed). All it's really for is to stop the brushroll flicking bits back if you don't turn it off.

Don't glue it, the day after it all sets hard the PCB will go pop, sods law!

Collector and restorer of vintage vacuums, Dyson Appreciator! Come and see my blog, where I am uploading all my mountains of brochures, manuals and other vacuum cleaner paperwork, and also my youtube channel @beko1987!

Offline John7691

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Re: Tutorial: Replacing the Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor.
« Reply #35 on: October 31, 2016, 10:56:23 pm »
I've tried pushing it in but it doesn't stay there.  There doesn't seem to be much holding it in. 

I have two suggestions:

First; leave it off and make sure to turn off the roller when on hard floors - The disadvantage of this solution is that it relies on the correct behaviour from the operator.

Second: Cut the strip into three segments and permanently glue each one to right, left and middle of the screw access holes.  This would leave two small gaps in the rubber but might be better than complete removal.

What is your success rate for putting the strip back in?  Have you operated without it and how long does the motor last in that mode?

John




Offline beko1987

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Re: Tutorial: Replacing the Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor.
« Reply #36 on: November 01, 2016, 10:16:17 am »
Cutting the strip so the screws are accessible is a good idea, that would solve your issues. I've always got the strip back in tbh, sometimes they need a very firm shove but they always click in eventually.

Not having the strip in won't affect the motor, it's there purely to stop debris being flicked back under the head, many vacuums have this sort of system, and with the brushroll turned off it won't happen anyway as the brushroll won't flick when off.

Cutting and sticking would solve your issue for the least amount of effort though, and as long as the 2 screws are uncovered you should need never to worry about it again!
Collector and restorer of vintage vacuums, Dyson Appreciator! Come and see my blog, where I am uploading all my mountains of brochures, manuals and other vacuum cleaner paperwork, and also my youtube channel @beko1987!

Offline John7691

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Re: Tutorial: Replacing the Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor.
« Reply #37 on: November 01, 2016, 06:45:20 pm »
OK.  I'll try the cut&Stick method.
Thanks
John

Offline mkehat

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Re: Tutorial: Replacing the Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor.
« Reply #38 on: January 29, 2021, 12:17:31 pm »
This tutorial was of great help to me today, here in Israel.
Our head brush assembly was worn out, so we ordered a replacement from US Amazon, attached it, turned on the cleaner, and ... pop goes the over-current circuit breaker. I hadn't imagined the assembly would run on the same local voltage as the cleaner (and in fact the Dyson service representative we spoke to was convinced all head assemblies are identical.
Using your tutorial, I opened up both the old and new assemblies, saw that in fact the motor and circuitry board are localized, and so ported the old motor and circuit board into the new casing, and voila!
Thank you very much!

Offline MVacs

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Re: Tutorial: Replacing the Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor.
« Reply #39 on: January 30, 2021, 07:09:21 pm »
Glad it helped.  :thumbsup:

Offline macman

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Re: Tutorial: Replacing the Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor.
« Reply #40 on: September 28, 2021, 03:48:25 pm »
I've got a DC24 in with intermittent brushroll operation, so either faulty brushroll motor, PCB, or yoke loom (i hope not the latter).
What should the output be at the head terminals on the main body please? Am I right in thinking that it's still AC voltage at this stage, and the conversion to 220V DC takes place at the PCB. So 220V AC?

Offline MVacs

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Re: Tutorial: Replacing the Dyson DC24 Brush Bar Motor.
« Reply #41 on: September 30, 2021, 06:29:38 pm »
Am I right in thinking that it's still AC voltage at this stage, and the conversion to 220V DC takes place at the PCB. So 220V AC?

That's about the size of it, yes.  :thumbsup:


 

 

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