Dyson Models > First Generation "The Ball" Dysons.
How to - Dyson DC24 Motor Change
beko1987:
I had this in recently for a dead brushroll, and before I even got round to that, I noticed that the motor sounded a bit peaky...
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=oM3PX2bPm8E
Quick message to the owner and he agreed to a new motor, and once I got the brushroll diagnosed, a new brushroll motor too. The parts arrived last week, and I got to it. Realising there is no how to guide for the main motor (apart from one buried in another thread), I thought I would give it a try!
INGREDIENTS:
New DC24 Motor assembly - https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC24-motor-917281-02-YV-07K24
New Post motor Filter - https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC24-Post-Motor-HEPA-Filter
T-25 Torx driver
So, wand, hose and cyclone off and out of the way.
Recline the machine.
Undo these three screws
You want to unplug this connector block
Next, you need to remove this thin white wire from the plug
because, as you can see, it needs to plug into the block on the new motor
Using a tiny screwdriver/pin/SWMBO's tweezers, push the locking tab up, and the connector pulls out
Then, remove the screw as shown.
Over to the other side, and remove the lower hose
Then remove this screw that sits under the hose
Remove the filter cover, and the filter
Rotate the ball so you can see the 4 screws, and remove them. Lift off one side of the ball, then rotate the other side and lift off the other. Pulling gently on one side, pull until the motor assembly pops out of the locating holes in the chassis
The Yolk comes off easily now
You need to salvage these three bits off the motor housing. If your tiny cog is ruined, you need one of these - https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC24-Bearing-Ball-923685-01
Take the larger cog. If it sounds a bit dry when rotating, pop it apart and smear grease over the ball-race. Then, fit it to the motor housing, so the locating lugs align with the motor housing cutouts, and the large lug protects the cables
Clean up and refit the seal
Fit the other bearing onto the spindle on the other side, then slide the housing back into the yolk
Then slide the yolk and motor housing back onto the chassis, the small cog side fits into the chassis, and the 3 screw holes on the wiring side must line up
Refit both screws onto either side of the motor housing. Then, plug the small wire into the new connector block
and plug the connectors together, and tuck the cables into their respective places
Refit the ball by placing one side over the bearings, rotating it to the back and placing the other side on top. Screw up and check for smooth operation
Fit your shiny new filter to give the new motor a great start in life
Refit the cable cover
Refit the side hose, (and the cleaner head if you removed it) and check the recline operation for smoothness. Hopefully, you should be job jobbed!
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsxGyMTj6q0
Intregued as to the state of the old motor, I whipped it out of the housing and popped the fancase off
If it didnt spark visibly through the housing with the filter removed I migth have been tempted to clean it up and save it, but it was too far gone sadly, killed by paper...
Hope this helps anyone out there attempt this quite easy job!
macman:
Nice one beko, really clear pics as always. Any chance of doing one for the DC25 next time you've got one in for a motor change please?
I've yet to do a motor change on a Ball model, though I did start my first cylinder one yesterday (a DC19). They're ridiculously easy and quick compared to a DC07/14 etc.
MVacs:
Very strong tutorial. :bow:
I'm going to link it from the DC24 motor page and sticky it. :thumbsup:
beko1987:
Thank you very much! :tiphat:
I havent got any 25's in at the moment, if anyone wants to give me one I'll happily do a how to though... :grinn:
eyemdee:
What a superb guide! I have just changed the motor in a DC24 for the first time and could not have attempted it without this tutorial.
A couple of points I noticed and got a bit stuck on are worth mentioning. BTW the Torx driver reqired is Tx15 not Tx25.
On the photo showing the disconnection of the thin white wire from the connector (took me ages to release it), it is worth mentioning that the thin red wire connected to the switch just next to it also needs to be disconnected in order to separate the yoke from the chassis.
Finally, when reassembling the motor assembly to the yoke, there are 2 flimsy lugs on the yoke which need to mate with 2 cutouts on the motor. It is easy to break one or both of the lugs if you don't spot them and just try and push the motor in without lining them up first.
Thanks again for an excellent guide.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
Go to full version