Dyson DC07 All Floors - Stripdown and Refurb

[beko1987]

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Picked this up from ebay a few weeks ago. Ended up going to a VERY posh house, big in and out gravel drive, 64 plate Tesla on charge on its proper charging port, all cars under 2 years old etc. Felt bad even bringing my car near them tbh but made sure I didnt blow any soot over them on the way out...





Wasnt too bad, but had NO suction at all, but didnt sound blocked.

This is a clutched model, so you can turn the brushroll on and off. Non clutched ones dont have anything here, and the brushroll is always on.



Cyclone off



Tools off







Dusty but in good condition

Cable off next



Hose and wand off



The release catch pops off the pivots from the bottom





This spring sits underneath it



The cap ontop of the wand removed by pulling it firmly off





There may or may not be a spring under it, not all machines have them I've found

The hose removed next



Back to the top, and the screw at the front of the switch housing comes off



Pushing from the back pops the clips out





Pulling slightly on both edges opens the housing up slightly and the switch cover falls out



The switch pulls out of the moulding



and the wires unplug (Blue to Blue, both browns to the switch)



The rubber boot pulls off the cable, which makes life easier removing the spine cable



Push the cable through to the back and pull the rest out





The rubber seal pulls off the chassis



The removeable bit of the changeover valve comes out next





If you squeeze the black part together sideways it seperates from the housing



Inside is a bog fat spring. The rubber seal pulls off the end of the black housing



Another rubber seal pulls off the chassis



Pre motor filter cover is removed now





Filter didnt look too bad. Also noticed that the rubber seal inside the filter housing was missing, which would explain the rubbish suction



I forgot to take a picture, but if you carefully pop the top cap off the centre bit, a very long spring pops out, and the sealing part of the release valve too.



Another seal off the chassis

The post motor filter cover pops off now





Filter wasnt too filthy tbh, seen worse



The diffuser can come out now







Clutch cover now. I've never really developed a knack for this, just lever it at the top and bottom until it cracks off and hope it doesnt split/crack the cover...





All done on top, time to flip it over





Wand blockage port off



and the plastic clip pops off from behind



Pop a vanity cap off one of the rear wheels



which reveals a little circlip



Blurry pic, but one can lever a small flatblade inside it and carefully pop it off the spindle





The wheel now pulls off



a washer sits between the wheel and chassis on both sides



Pull the axle and other wheel off the machine



Hold the other wheel, and give the axle a short sharp tap on the floor. It will pop the other glamour cap off, and the wheel can then be slid off the axle



leaving the other circlip on, no need to remove both

Brushroll area next



baseplate off



The edge cleaning brushes slide out of the baseplate



and the little wheels lever out with a screwdriver. These ones are fine, but if their worn replacements are dirt cheap!



Up with the belt now, and the brushroll comes out



End caps were full of rubbish



Grabbing the axle with some grips aids removing the other end cap



Using the axle, insert it into one of the brushroll bearings just enough so it doesnt actually come through the other side, and lever down. The bearing should flip up and be easily removed (this is do or die time for the brushroll, if it's weak, it'll crack. But that's probably a good thing, as if its weak enough to crack itll need replacing anyway)





You now want to remove the internal hose from the bottom of the changeover valve. It just pulls off the mounting point



Internal hose off, gently lever the top of the brushroll housing out of the lugs either side



The internal hose twists off the brushroll housing. If your machine doesnt hold itself to the floor very well, replace this bit! (I did on this machine). Instant fix, it acts as the spring to keep the floorhead touching the floor)



Onto the clutch cover now. Put the machine in the upright position for this, but still upside down. 3 screws, one buried deep under here



and 2 more here



and the cover pops off



the belt guide rod pulls out of the housing



pop the clutch to motor belt off the motor pulley



and a massive tug later the clutch will be out



No idea wether this dates the machine or just the clutch



Under each side of the bottom part are 2 circlips. Pop the end out and the rest will follow



lay the machine as so



and pull each end out in unison and the whole lot lifts away



These 2 clips sit around each stub and provide the pivot for the bottom housing



The remains of the changeover valve come out next. Pop both the tabs down (one on the other side too, get-at-able with a screwdriver)



and pull the latch out



This bit is fiddly. Pull the changeover valve top part out so it clears the housing



and gently pop these clips out





Another seal is removed



4 screws and the motor assembly comes off. Pull the spine wire through the chassis with it



There will be one screw left on the chassis



Pull the filter housing clip forwards slightly



and wriggle the elbow peice out over the top of it



Position your torx driver over the back of the filter housing clip as shown



and smack it hard with something. The clip will fly out of the housing then!



The chassis is now stripped!



Motor now. Pull the housing off the front from the egdes and over the motor housing



Prise the 4 clips up one by one and remove the motor housing cover



A rubber seal comes off this bit too



Push the cable grommit into the housing, then position the motor onto the belt spindle, and push down hard





This will push the motor up a bit, enabling you to grab the motor top seal and pull it out, bringing the cable with it (hence why I removed the neutral cable boot when we took the switch out, so it fits through this hole!)



The top rubber pulls off



as does the fancase rubber





Leaving an empty motor housing



Onto the cyclone



Open the bottom flap and remove the bin from the cyclone



By holding the bin under your arm and squeezing, the clips bend just enough to pop the bottom flap off





Onto the top now, and remove these three screws. Their sometimes security torx screws, which can be annoying.





The cyclone top and release rod withdraw from the cyclone



Seen worse





The last screw is hiding under here



which holds the release rod on



The release trigger falls out of the top now



Pull each fin of the cyclone in turn until you hear a click. After the third click, the fins should fall out







The inner cyclone seal sits inside the cage



The shroud pulls off easily now



One last seal to remove



and we are disassembled!





Grab another vac and clean up before SWMBO notices (unless you are SWMBO, in which case bask in your glory!). Then, wash all the plastics in hot soapy water, then leave to dry. The cyclone unit can take a day or two, leave it somewhere hot like an airing cupboard. Clean all the rubber seals with a baby wipe/thick cloth until they squeak again!

Wipe the cables down, and if the motor is a bit dusty, try and airline it off, or vac it off/soft brush and sharp blowing onto it to dislodge the worst of it.

[Madrat]

but made sure I didnt blow any soot over them on the way out...

 

Been to places like that.

[beko1987]

Once dry, it's time for re-assembly!



Assemble all the motor bits



Refit the seal





Refit the top rubber to the motor



and the fancase one (can be tricky, tiny smear of oil/washing up liquid helps alot)



Do make sure the top of the seal goes around the lip of the motor though. This is incorrect



This is correct



Next, run a smear of oil or washing up liquid around the inside of the motor housing. Feed the cable through the hole, line up the motor and push her home. (is impossible without lubricant!) The wires from the motor must be on the side of the hole where the cable exits the motor housing, and the top rubber is keyed so only fits one way. Move the rubber around if it's the wrong way round.



Once in and home, refit the cover





Slip the cover housing back on







Next, re-fit the elbow (making sure the seal is still present on it)



It wont fully line up for now, it pulls together when you tighten it up though



Refit and screw down the motor housing



after feeding the cable through the top hole in the chassis



Refit the filter housing seal (that was missing from this one)



Place the top half of the release valve into the housing



then the spring



Then cap it all down



Fit a nicely washed or brand new filter





Refit the





then refit the filter catch. Can take a bit of a push to clip it in





then fit the filter housing



Get a new post motor filter (I havent got any DC07 HEPA ones left so I used a filter pad as I have lots of those)



replace the diffuser



fit the filter and replace the filter housing



Refit the pivot rings



and gather up the changeover valve bits



Refit the seal to the valve base



slide the valve body over it )seal at the back, 2 larger lugs to the back)



Tip the non seal end in first so the bit the internal hsoe clips onto clears the front, then slide the housing back onto its clips until their level, then snap the front 2 lugs down ont othe housing, clicking the pivot ring properly onto the housing in the process



Refit the latch and spring. Squeeze the latches and the 2 locking tabs in so they clear the housing, and slide them in and up until it clicks



Refit the





Line the lugs of the black housing up with the holes on the seal and refit the seal to the changeover valve



Sit the spring inside it



Then click the 2 halves together (tapered mouldings facing outwards on the black part as pictured





Refit the head the same way as you removed it



Wheels now







Time to rebuild your clutch as per https://manchestervacs.co.uk/DysonForum/index.php/topic,1196.0.html, or buy a new one with new belts





Refit the little bar



Fit the clutch to motor belt to the spindle, then gently place the clutch housing into its locating palces until it clicks fully down home



I forgot to take a picture, but next you push the machine back itno the upright position and refit the clutch cover and screw it down.

I used a new internal hose





and refitted it and the brushroll housing



Brushroll bearings were re-packed with grease



inserted into the brushroll ends, then the end cap was put on the axle, slid through, the other end cap refitted then the whole lot squeezed together which seats the bearings. Check it spins freely, and ensure both end caps are pointing the same way



It's a bit tricker lifting a non streched belt



but do-able. With the brushroll fitted, rotate it by hand to centre the belt up



Refit the wheels to the soleplate with a little drop of grease on the axles to avoid squeaking



and refit the baseplate

Refit the catch to the wand blockage tube



and click it into place





Refit the top chassis seal





Put the hose back on (or another hose thats been washed in this case)





Fit the spinal cord back into the cutouts for it, and back into the switch housing. Refit the power cable back into its slots too





wire it all up and tuck the neutral back into the side

Switch housing back together







and put the screw back in

Almost forgot, replace the circlips on the pivot points



Wand now. Refit the top cap spring (if yours has one)



and push it back onto the wand



Wand release latch spring back on



insert the top of the latch first, ensure the spring is lined up on both sides then clip the bottom over the two lugs



and refit the wand and hose!



Cyclone now. Pop the spring into the housing, then push the release rod through them both, lining the lug up at the end with the cut out on the housing





Insert the bin release trigger into the cyclone top



Then, holding the rod as far into the housing (by pulling it) as it will go, latch the back onto the cyclone lid and screw the front down



Pull the release trigger so the rod extends, then feed it through the locating holes inside the cyclone. With your fingers the other end, manipulate the end of the rod into the latch, keeping the cyclone top squared up and aligned correctly, then push it home and tighten the screws



Refit the shroud (thin part on top, fat part on the bottom as pictured)

Insert the bottom seal inside the cage



then offer it up to the cyclone, aligning each rib into its housing. squeeze the top part of the fins up until they click back into place





Refit the cyclone exit seal



Refit the seal to the bin flap







Refit the bottom flap to the cyclone and fit the cyclone to the cleaner



Test the machine before putting the clutch cover on, as any issues and youll have to take it off again, and it's a pain. Check the motor operates, that the suction is restored to as new levels, block the wand off with your hand and listen for the release valve to open, recline and stand the machine up to check the clutch turns the brushroll on and off.

All working?

Then well done, one restored DC07, ready for 6-7 years more cleaning before you have to do it again...

Some after shots



with a future project I'll post up when it's done



it sold the next day, job jobbed!

[beko1987]

but made sure I didnt blow any soot over them on the way out...

 

Been to places like that.

*Must...keep...below...2krevs...

It's better now after a good service at the weekend. Got on the m40 this morning, held it in 3rd until 4.5k/75mph, coudlnt see behind me at one stage but it feels more sprightly now!

Good old agricultural ancient deisels!

[MVacs]

I like the two "seal" photos. 

Can you not move to Manchester? You have a job tomorrow. 

[beko1987]

I got bored of typing seal yet again!

Would love to come work for you,  sadly I don't think swmbo would though. The next time I go to a concert in Manchester (dream theater usually go there)  I'll have to pop in and say hello!

[bluebumble485]

that's what I do you do a few bits I don't I will admit ,I am doing more dc14 and dc33 atm I have stopped doing dc27 they take to long lol
.seems strange to see it done in pictures m8

[Babooshka]

Beko,

This is a great stripdown/rebuild!.. I have a few questions though, The brushbar housing I really seem to be struggling with this.. don't suppose you could give me a little more info how to get the flipping thing off could you? I need to get it off so I can exchange clutches.
I would be very grateful if you could give me a few pointers. ta.
also how do you stop getting chew marks from a screwdriver on the machine body, it does look awful!

I just realised too that it was your refurb of the City DC26 that I followed too! :)

many thanks

[beko1987]

No worries!

I presume you have:

Removed the base plate
Removed the brushbar (the belt lifter tool is very handy at this...)
Pull the internal hose from underneath the changeover valve.
Tip the top of the brushroll housing as far forward as it will go, then gently pry each end off the cleaner head  with a screwdriver. It may pull, but a lever does make it easier. The more you tip it forward, the easier it pops out of the housing. Hard to describe sadly, and I haven't actually got a picture of the process. Once your holding it tipped up as far as you can you shouold see the gap open enough for your screwdriver.

Once thats off, put the machine back into 'upright' mode, then undo the 3 screws holding the clutch cover on, one is at the top and quite deep inside the machine. Pop the belt off the motor spindle, then grab both belts and pull up hard and the clutch will come out and hopefully wont smack you in the knuckles!

Then either new clutch or I did a tutorial somewhere on how to change the belts on a clutch.

[MVacs]

Tip the top of the brushroll housing as far forward as it will go, then gently pry each end off the cleaner head  with a screwdriver. It may pull, but a lever does make it easier. The more you tip it forward, the easier it pops out of the housing.

I have never used a screwdriver or a lever yet, and wince when I see others doing so.

Pivot the housing in both directions while pulling at one end, in one position it pops out, repeat for the other side.

Watch this @ 55 seconds. Like that......

[Madrat]

That's how I do it and even then you have to be careful , a bit to much and you snap the lugs that hold the housing off the foot plate.  A screw driver    no no no never especially in the hands of a clutts like me 

[beko1987]

I feel more confident with a screwdriver.  Use little force,  but it pops each end out right at the edge.  Have used the pulling method before though.

[Babooshka]

thank you all for the advice, I haven't done anything with it yet [as I have been out and about with the children this week]

I have done the following:

Removed the base plate
Removed the brush
Removed the internal hose from underneath too.

the machine is in bits in my living room, waiting to be washed and reassembled :)

I am presuming that as the brush works intermittently that this could either be a clutch problem or the bearings? [I think I read that right!] 

ETA: sometimes the machine doesn't seem to pick up at all and sometimes has a case of blowback too... any ideas please

sorry if I should have made a new thread, wasn't sure if I should as it is related to this machine

[beko1987]

Yep,  clutch or bearings.

Does the brushroll spin well if you hold it by the end caps and flick it with a finger? If you re grease the bearings then that helps.

Does the belt strech out quite far? Was the brushroll easy to get out from under the belt? If so,  its streched. If you undo the black clutch cover (one deep down screw at the top,  you csn inspect the other belt.

[Madrat]

You can rebuild the clutch, bit fiddly but doable, check the white roller the belt goes onto though first, if its burnt, melted or misshaped then don't bother, get a rebuilt one.  Brushbar bearings are easy and cheep to replace.