Dyson Models > First Generation "The Ball" Dysons.
Dyson DC24 - Stripdown and Refurb
beko1987:
I bought a DC24 and 25 last week, and did the 24 first
Was a bit filthy
Pre filter wasnt too horiffic, very very dusty though
Post filter was :dead-dyson: though
Eva loved the toy dyson...
we took the cyclone off
I left the wand whole to wash
The sticker was long gone, so I scraped it off
and took the top cap off
hose off
combi tool wasnt horrific
Switch housing off next
little spring here
I left this clear bit on as it looks like itll break if I try
Switches out
and pull the cable off the front of the cleaner
remove the
and the other
Brushroll housing off
lower hose off
LH Ball screw out
RH Wiring cover screws removed
Pop the white connector up
and unplug it
remove the microswitch housing screw
remove the little spring
the housing pulls out from behind the pivot for the grey pedal
unplug the wires and remove the switch from the housing
remove the RH ball screw
The ball then pulls off the chassis
Pull the chassis wires off and remove the chassis spine wire
Remove the RH Red pedal screw
and the left
remove the LH grey pedal screw
The grey and red pedals unclip from the chassis now
The LH has 2 springs on it
and once their removed the red and grey pedals can be removed and seperated
The black clip by the ball unscrews now
The spring pops off the end
Changeover valve to remove now
time for a smaller torx driver
to remove the changeover wheel screw
slide the wheel off the arm
undo the screws underneath holding the changeover assembly on
which splits into two again
with another spring on
this spring gives the yolk assembly some bounce
Next is the diverter flap
remove the screw, push the centre through and the spring comes out
then the flap unclips
another comes off
Second hose now
and the changeover top
Stripped chassis
Onto the motor now
Wiring has to be removed
More wires run inderneath
There's a screw under the yolk assembly
and the wiring cover pops off
The brushroll housing connector removes now
Open the flap on top of the connector
and the wires pull out of the connector
The floating locating bracket on top removes
it has a little spring underneath
The end of it unscrews to reveal an elbow
The yolk is stripped
Onto the ball
Remove the post filter cover
remove the 4 screws and the ball seperates
The two cogs remove
Remove the 4 screws on the motor housing and remove the top ocver, but beware the cables
push the connector and cables through
Motor was a bit dusty
the 2 motor wires unclip
and the motor rubber can be removed
top motor mount off
Brushroll housing now
remove the brushroll
squeegee is removed from the baseplate
Which you need to do to undo all the screws. Once their all out, flip it over and lift the top grey housing off
Pull the front bumper off
The clear plastic part lifts away, and the motor and pcb can be removed
Remove the wheels from the soleplate
The PCB and motor
This connector needs to be removed
the end pops off the the wires and inner housing pop out of the slot
Onto the cyclone
bottom flap and bottom seal pop off
top filter catch pops off the hinges
3 manky screws to remove the top handle
more screws to remove from the inner cyclone
part of the bin release rod and spring comes out when this is seperated
rather ruined cyclone seal
Theres a seal around the middle part of the cyclone
The shroud pops off the cones
and the lower cone pops off the shroud
And she was disassembled. And washed dried and polished...
beko1987:
Starting with the cyclone
bottom cone on
Cone back onto the shroud
shroud back onto the cone assembly
Top now
handle and the top of the release rod back on
back onto the cyclone bottom flap
Bin is very cloudy but came up ok after a polish. Got rid of the very battered sticker though to smarten it up a bit
The motor was cleaned up
2 seals back on
The motor connectors were plugged in and nestled into the gap in the seal assembly and the motor was inserted into the motor housing
Feed the wires through the hole and push the rubber seal into it
Feed the wires through the cable routing bit on top of the housing
Split the large ball bearing
put a good smear of grease around it
and snap the housing back together
fit it to the ball
fit the other white bearing to the other end and sit the housing into one side of the ball
lower the other half of the ball on
and screw together.
Onto the yolk now, refit the elbow to the end of the yolk assembly
snap the bouncy bar onto the top
feed the yolk wires through the gap in the housing, then plug the ends back into the plug in this orientation.
close the plug
refit the plug into the housing, then push the wires into their holders
All done, it should sit flush with the yolk housing
feed and lay the cable underneath the black ring, and fit the moulding to the ring so the cable exits correctly
refit the yolk to the ball
Onto the chassis now. Reassemble the suction diverter assembly
fit the to the housing
then the hose to the housing
Then from underneath the housing to the chassis, making sure the 3 pegs locate correctly
Fit the changeover valve
Snap the flap onto the housing, hold the spring onto it then push the locating peg in to hold it all in there
screw it in from the back
refit the spring and clear nipple
Fit the below spring onto the below peg, as per the orientation shown
slide the side of the changeover assembly onto the valve, then screw the changeover valve onto the bottom of the chassis
refit the changeover wheel
fit the ball tension peg and spring as shown
fit the grey pedal into the chassis
feed the spine wire up the chassis and locate the wires back into their chases
insert the red pedal in
fit the loose pring onto the grey pedal, and check the red one bounces off the nipple correctly ( :underchair:)
refit the to the motor housing
and refit the ball and yolk to the chassis. Secure it with the ball screws on either side
connect all the wires back up, and refit the mictoswitch and housing
pop up top and re-wire the switches in and tidy up all the cables
refit the switches and switch housing
I opened a new post motor filter
bit cleaner
and fitted it.
I then opened some post from manchestervacs, and withdrew a new cyclone seal!
which meant I could finish the cyclone off! The pre motor filter washed up very well
I gave the brushroll pcb to someone who needed one, so mvacs kindly sent me another one!
so that night I started on the brushroll housing
initial connector back together and fitted
refitted the motor
lowered the clear housing on
fitted the motor cables into their slots
fitted the pcb, not forgetting the reset switch surround
plugged the motor in, then turned it upside down and fitted the sole plate on
the squeegee was fitted, brushroll and end cap on and the brushroll was fitted to the machine. Hose and wand were put back on and...
and she's done! Hope this helps anyone looking for an answer to any of the DC24's many, many problems!
nherobot:
Thank you for the stripdown and the pics.
I'm having trouble with my DC24: its diverter valve won't stay in base mode. I don't really see how the mode is activated, I can manually turn the clear wheel in both positions and the air ducts are free (suction in both positions is ok), but the valve always springs back to hose mode. Maybe my wheel is overturned?
Can you tell from your model, how the wheel is operated, when switching the Dyson from hose to base mode?
Yours,
Ray
beko1987:
The changeover valve is operated by the clear wheel and a pivot arm.
With the wand in place, the wand pushes the flap down, which pushes the lever around, turnig the clear disc and moving tbe little hose to the left as you look at the machine.
Is the assembly on the left in tact? Should be 2 locating lugs, and a further lug that moves around the cutouts in the chassis. You should be able to manipulate it by hand with the wand and cyclone off to check operation.
nherobot:
The assembly is ok, I can move the clear wheel and the little hose switches position. I will check for what the wand does to the wheel when I get back home. Thanks for the fast answer!
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