Hoover 119 Available

[beko1987]

Used a magic bit of cable! Means to turn it off it needs to be unplugged but thats a minor thing!

[Madrat]

That switch is so old I bet it can be fixed easily.

[beko1987]

I did look at it, and whilst it could, it's held together by 2 long, very tiny rivets that probably had Hoover tool 65894 to fit. I'd get it apart, but not sure how I'd get it back together. By the time I've found 2 bolts and nuts small enough I may as well take a collector up on his offer of a working switch!

I did have one last year, from a scrap 119 I had but they got sold. I do keep telling swmbo I'm better not selling anything as it'll come in handy one day! Do have the came still from that 119 somewhere so will replace the cable on this with that, it's white but not ruined...

[beko1987]

Had an hour alone earlier, so grabbed the Crapramaster and the 119



and emptied the bag!

Turned it inside out



I dont think this has been vacced out for a while



Went over and got the worse off with the bleed valve open to stop the nozzle sticking to the bag, then a few passes with the bleed valve closed to lift the dust out of the bag.

Had a look under the insulation tape around the bottom of the bag and found a small hole



I put the tape back on and left it...

Had a look at the belt next



Eva and SWMBO came back from where they had been, so I got my 119 belts and Eva counted them up



The old one wasnt too streched, but a little bit perished



Brushroll was missing one tuft, but nice and long which is nice



it works MUCH better now the airflow has somewhere to go and the belts not slipping!

and now it sits next to the broken DC18, laughing at it because the 18 is pretty much written off at <10 years, whereas this is probably coming up to 60 years young.



Hope to get more done later, will wash the bag too, but probably not in the machine

[Madrat]

Get the sowing kit out and repair that hole.

[beko1987]

Ill ask my mum when its washed...

[Madrat]

Tut tut... 

[beko1987]

Right, here we go then!

First up, I tended properly to the bag. It fits onto the end from the inside



Turn the bag inside out, then pull the fold out and some old string is visible



Snip snip



and the bag connector pulls out



Didnt fancy putting the bag through the washing machine, as it may have taken the lettering off. So I soaked it/agitated it in a bucket of warm water with washing up liquid 3 times, then rinsed well.

The first bucket was like soup



I took the bag clip and gave it a good cif





Then a polish with g3 by hand, which put some shine back into the paint



Onto the machine now



And the plug



Could possibly be as old as the machine itself







Plug went in for washing...

Out with the handle bolts now





These two plates hold the cord to the handle





The handle grip was very loose, and just pulled off





This part holds the cord onto the handle at the bottom



Unbolted



This part locates the handle in the fork



The mains cable is clipped to the inside of the handle fork with 2 clips



and enters the machine at the bottom







Next job was to split the machine. 4 screws later and





The handle fork unbolts from either side





The handle is sprung from this spring



Once unbolted the handle pulls off







2 of the rivets were broken on the handle, although it's still solid



These two tiny peices of tube are spacers for the handle fork



Onto underneath now, and the wiring cover is unscrewed



The ratings plate is removed by bending 2 little tabs out





The mains cable attached to the cleaner here



twisty twisty



and once removed the cable guard and clamp pull off



All ready for the bin..



The front axle fits inside a large spring



Which is held under tension by rotating it up and against a little stop, which taps out of the axle





Once tapped out the whole thing slides out



The two motor wires connect to the terminal block here



The brown wire is where the switch used to be, it's the bridge I fitted to test it works

All removed



Onto the fan side now



4 screws hold this in



This VERY perished seal fits between the motor housing and brushroll housing



Even the fan was proud to be made by Hoover



To remove the fan, the belt spindle turns clockwise to remove, hold the fan to crack it off



Some spacers and washers sit beneath here



The fancase bearing housing lifts off the armature



The bearing isnt in too bad order, which is good as I havent got any spares, and a replacement would need to be riveted back in



Yummy



The armature looks almost brand new!



The carbon brushes sit under here, obviously designed to be an easily replaced part, available from your nearest Hoover service centre





The carbons have a bit of life left in them yet



This peice clamps the mains cable down internally



We can now see the coil and coil cover



But before that can be removed, the carbon brush connectors have to be unclipped from the holders



Then 3 screws removed and...



Was a bit fluffy...



The cover is held onto the coil by a screw



Looking a bit emptier now. The carbon brush holders are held in with a screw each





The rear bearing can be unscrewed, again it's not in too bad nick



The wire block slides forward and out of the machine





Rear wheels next

Lots of little spacer shims under this



Thought I was nearly there, when I spied some remains of a wire on the side of the housing



Removing the screw and nut holding it in showed it was, at some point, a cable



I removed it all, and asked the question, which no one could answer, so have left it out for now. Could possibly be an earth wire, I need to check it out



The rear wheels are held onto the little axle by a circlip either side





The rear is done! Onto the front now



Belt cover removed



Underneath



This little sprung clip is un clipped



Either side of the brushroll are 2 levers, that unlock and slightly raise the brushroll



The brushroll can then be removed from the machine.

The front wheels are held in with a clip each





That's as much that comes off the brushroll housing without a Hoover rivet gun, and special sleeved standoff rivets, of which I have neither...





Nice trail of smeg running off the brushes



End caps unscrewed, the bearings and axle can be removed



The brushes unscrew from the brushroll housing



The brushroll end caps tap out with a hammer



And she is apart!

[beko1987]

Some of the bits were washed, some were not. What was not washed got cleaned up with wire wool and silvo



The main housings were cleaned thoroughly with Cif, then polished by hand a few times with g3, which put some shine back on











The housing was in remarkably good condition under the decades of paint scrapes, tape residue around the bag connector and general filth.

Looking at the coil though, the wires were starting to show their age



So I cut the old fraying ends off, sleeved the wires with heatshrink and fitted some better connectors (which turned out to be wrong, so i found some better ones





I couldnt get heatshring onto the carbon holder connector, and didnt want to cut them off and get them re soldered so wrapped insulation tape around both wires to second skin it



Filled both bearings with grease too



and turned the shed upside down to find this, from a scrapper 119 I had last year (found a switch too, more on that later!)

The cable protector and holder was slid onto the cord, then the plug fitted





Done!



Brushroll next, and I got 2 new brushroll bearings from the stash



End caps tapped into the brushroll housing



Brush strips screwed in, bearings fitted, axle inserted and end caps on. Spins so much more easily now!



Brushroll housing was cleaned up underneath to get rid of some light surface rust, and apply a drop of grease to the brushroll levers



Front wheels ready to go back in







Drop of grease on the wheel axles to stop the squeaking



Brushroll fitted



Rear wheel assembly ready to go together next



More grease on the moving parts



Let's start on the motor housing first



Rear wheels and shims assembled





Wiring connector block slid into place



Rear bearing has been soaked in grease



and screwed into the motor housing



Coil ready to go back together





But first the carbon brush holders need to be fitted. They came up well with a wire brushup with the dremel clone



That's better



Coil and cover fitted



carbon connectors clipped on



Armature is next in line



Drop of grease on the end where it sits in the rear bearing



and in it goes. Front bearing holds it in nicely







and screwed up



Carbons in



Double check they havent got caught and do touch the comm



Spacers, shims and washers fitted to under the fan



Fan dropped on



Belt spindle screwed tightly down



As mentioned earlier, I found a working switch in the shed



It's not genuine Hoover sadly but still made in England! It was fitted



Handle fork axle re-inserted, as well as the tension pin



Everything was wired up. I had to change the crimps on the coil wires as I found some better ones, and needed to fit them at a different angle so they screwed in nicely



Ratings plate refitted to the wiring cover





At this point, I plugged it in and turned it on, to check it worked before going any further

Good good, carry on then!

Switch cover fitted



Handle fork spacers fitted



and the handle fork and spring fitted. The spring was a bastard to get in, although easier now I know how hard to force it!



I clipped the mains cable up the inside of the fork





I had an attempt at re-fitting the bag connector to the bag, and found some string. Sadly, Hoover must have used a special machine to do their knots as my attempt was s :censored:te



So I cheated and used small cable ties...



Which I fitted just above the little hole to make the little hole internal and ok, rather than causing all the dirt to fall out!



Handles back on, with the cord tucked up nicely and...








Job done! Does it work any better than before though?

A little bit, yes! Also used it to clear up after stripping a DC04 down earlier this evening

I put a layer of wax on earlier, will get that buffed off tomorrow, and see what it looks like in the daylight. Certainly looks and feels pretty special. I'm off to bed now!

[Tech12]

Hi beko: Top write up as usual, the only niggle I've got is the crimps you used. They just don't look right on a vintage machine & take up too much room in the connection block, have you considered using non insulated terminals & heat shrink where needed ?.
They're readily available, just as easily crimped on & look much better.

[beko1987]

I know what you mean,  I did think of just tucking the ends of the wires under the terminals,  but thought that would be worse.  I had to crimp the terminals vertically too so they fitted into the blocks.

May have a look at that later,  would it be ok with the ends of the wire tucked under the scrrws?

I had to sack off the coil wire terminals,  they were only held on with 3 or 4 wire strands,  and I couldnt get the heat shrink on with them fitted.

[Tech12]

You can form the end of the wire into a terminal, strip the insulation of the core back & twist the strands together. Slip a small piece of heat shrink over the end, use a small screwdriver with a blade the same size or slightly larger than the terminal screw & wrap the wire clockwise around the screwdriver, now twist the flying end of the wire 1 turn clockwise back around the core to form an eye terminal & cut off any excess strands.
Slip the shrink down over the wrap you just made & shrink it down, when you remove the screwdriver, you should have a small eyelet formed in the end of your wire.
Believe me, that was a lot harder to try & describe than it is to actually do. Best thing to do is practice on some old wire a few times first. Once you've done a few, you'll find it easy.

Non insulated terminals & a basic crimper are cheap enough on ebay

[Tech12]

If you want to use up your insulated crimps but keep it looking more original, Strip the wire as you would normally.
Slip a small piece of heat shrink over each core, now crimp on a normal crimp.
Use a small snips to cut off the coloured insulation on each terminal, now slip the shrink down onto the terminal and shrink in place.
You've now got terminals that look more like the original thing & they take up less room.

[MVacs]

You can form the end of the wire into a terminal, strip the insulation of the core back & twist the strands together. Slip a small piece of heat shrink over the end, use a small screwdriver with a blade the same size or slightly larger than the terminal screw & wrap the wire clockwise around the screwdriver, now twist the flying end of the wire 1 turn clockwise back around the core to form an eye terminal & cut off any excess strands.
Slip the shrink down over the wrap you just made & shrink it down, when you remove the screwdriver, you should have a small eyelet formed in the end of your wire.
Believe me, that was a lot harder to try & describe than it is to actually do. Best thing to do is practice on some old wire a few times first. Once you've done a few, you'll find it easy.

I used to do that, but then I used to flash the loop I had created with solder to make more of a hard terminal. That stopped any stray strands from sticking out as the screw is nipped up and just felt nicer to me. 

[Tech12]

Yep: I do that myself if I'm forming wire terminals, didn't suggest it to beko as he doesn't do soldering yet.
The other thing is, there's a lot of discussion in certain areas about doing that. Apparently nowadays the thinking is that the heat hardens the wire & makes it more brittle.