Author Topic: Dyson DC23 - Stripdown and Refurb (and turbo tool repair) (Read 43832 times)

beko1987 · « **on:** July 13, 2016, 08:58:59 pm »

This came my way a few weeks ago now via my facebook repair page. Never had one before, so let's do this!

The main complaint was the turbo head did not spin. A quick test revealed that something did spin, but not the brushroll!

I cover the stripdown of this in more detail later, but basically you take the turbine housing

split it all apart until you get to the fan

which you will hopefully find cracked but not irrepairable, so glue it up

refit and test! In this case, it was job jobbed. The fan wasnt too worn, and worked a treat. One message to the happy owner later to say it should work, but if it breaks again we can look at a replacement fan, we can crack on with the main event!

Tools off

First off the machine is the cyclone seal

Removing the torx screw that sits just behind it releases the whole hose holder bit, and it slides/pulls off the machine (it's quite fiddly)

beko1987 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 13, 2016, 09:04:59 pm »

Like so

There is another screw sat underneath it now

Which releases the hose wrap guide

One last screw in here

and the floor tool parking bracket comes away

The rest of the assembly does look like it will split further, but I could not work out how to do it, and being a customers machine, and not one that I bought for a fiver, I left it alone to avoid damage!

Filter housing open now (hose and filters had already gone through the wash)

The hinged cover pops off the pivot very easily. The wheel, not so, and it took rather alot of force to pop the wheel off (it came off with a loud crack too but no damage)

The airflow channel lives on the outside of a DC23, and 3 screws remove it's cover. If the rubber seal stays fixed to the cover, leave it on! It's a proper fiddly bastard to get back on, trust me!

4 screws release the filter housing part from the main chassis

beko1987 · « **Reply #2 on:** July 13, 2016, 09:11:23 pm »

The release valve sits in this part, twist the top cover and the whole lot flies/pops out depending on how your holding it!

Sat under the pre motor filter cover is the post motor filter, which lifts out

Very carbon dusty but not too bad

That's about it for this side now, onto the other, and snap the other wheel off

The next step seems to be to remove the outer shell. Lots of screws dotted about

2 either side of the wheel holder

The hose entry port also forms part of this

and lifts off once unscrewed

beko1987 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 13, 2016, 09:15:40 pm »

Once unscrewed, it lifts off the machine, although the cable is still running through it

The cablue guide is held ont othe top shell with a screw

and this clip here

The rewind pedal fits on like any other Dyson cylinder

This part is not removeable without un-wiring the cable from the reel, and sod that, so it gets left on!

The front wheel pops off

The power switch sits on a little stand, held on by a screw

The cables running through it like so

the red cap pops off, and the switch slides out

beko1987 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 13, 2016, 09:20:22 pm »

The wires run through various channels, and the red one to the cord rewind loops down then back up (I took a pic during re-assembly)

The cord reel is removed by pulling it out until the square peg clears the chassis, then lifts out

The live and neutral connect to the reel like so, and need to be removed

Done! Not touching it anymore

Behind the cord reel sits the motor housing screws.

These are machine screws

Luckily there are cutouts in the main chassis to help with this

With the last screw out, the motor housing falls out the other side

and unscrews like so

beko1987 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 13, 2016, 09:26:24 pm »

Once unpeeled, the fancase seal can be pulled off

And the little cooling fan removed. The spring slip pops off, and the fan pulls off the keyed shaft. I've never seen thsi type of motor before, but since Mvacs list it under the DC23 spares section, it obviously exists!

A lesson from Dyson in how to make a repair more expensive than it needs to be, the whole motor is physicaly the same size as a DC05/8/most other cylinders, but this little shaft makes it unique, and I don't know what will happen if you try to fit a non cooled one

The empty chassis means we are done with the main machine

So, it's out into the garden to deal with the cyclone assembly, which is a tad dusty...

Bin off

The red release rod pops out of the channel on the bin

The bottom flap is removed from the bin

beko1987 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 13, 2016, 09:35:29 pm »

The 2 rubber seals pull out of the bottom flap

Onto the main cyclone now, and the first place to start is with screws

Which reveals this

which was a tad dusty

The shroud pops off 4 very shallow clips

The main shroud-cones seal is 2 parts, a palstic cage and a rubber gasket, which once you pop off every cyclone comes off

Hidden deep inside the cyclone are some screws

pic_20160622_212512.jpg (209.99 kB. 848x736 - viewed 620 times.)

which releases both the inner cone and top cover

The top part goes top cover, plastic cover, rubber gasket, cones

beko1987 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 13, 2016, 09:40:44 pm »

The cones side of the gasket was filthy

The middle part of the release rod sits in it's housing, ontop of a spring

The park bracket for the tubes screws onto the side of the cyclone

Finally, the bin seal is clipped over several lugs on the bottom of the cone assembly, and lifts out

I went to remove the top handle, and found a screw to undo

but no matter what I tried, it would not come off, and again, through fear of damaging it and needing to fork out for replacement parts, I left it alone!

Turbo Brush Now

Flip it over, and remove the base plate

beko1987 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 13, 2016, 09:54:53 pm »

Twist and pull the brushrolls off the axles

Undo all the screws you see at the top

and remove the cover.

The pivoting part needs to be split now. One side of it pops out with a flatblade screwdriver

The 2 halves seperate easily now. The rubber seal joins the turbine housing to the chassis, and the round hose is the internal hose for the turbo brush

The machine is now apart! Everything was washed, polished, dried and dumped on the front room rug for re-assembly!

We start with the cyclone, and the bin seal

The seal has a unique part, that mates with this bit on the cyclone assembly

then the rest fits fine

beko1987 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 13, 2016, 10:10:58 pm »

Wand parking bracket back on

Middle bin release rod back in

The much cleaner cyclone gasket is pushed onto the cyclone top

and fitted to the cyclone assembly

The inner cone gets fitted now

and with the top outer lid fitted, the whole lot screws up

The white ring slots onto the cones

and the rubber gasket sits ontop of that

The outer cone screws on

and the shroud sits on top of that

beko1987 · « **Reply #10 on:** July 13, 2016, 11:42:01 pm »

Bottom flap seals back in

Bin release rod back in

Bin flap fitted, bin fitted and the cyclone is done!

Motor next, and the cooling fan air ducting sits ontop of the motor, forming the top motor mount in the process

Fit the fan and retaining clip

Fit the fancase seal, and then fit the motor casing, taking care to route the motor wires through correctly

The motor housing fits into the chassis one way, so fit it that way, and screw the screws in. Be careful though, I crossthreaded one very very easily!

Release valve fitted back into its little house

beko1987 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 13, 2016, 11:48:51 pm »

Drop the cord rewind into place

Route the wires as needed and assemble the power switch bracket, and screw it down

Fit the cable guide to the outer shell

then fit the whole top shell to the lower chassis

and pop the cord rewind side wheel on

Drop the post motor filter into place

and screw the filter housing down

Refit the external air tube and seal

and pop the pre motor filter cover on

beko1987 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 13, 2016, 11:53:46 pm »

Fit the spotless pre motor filter

and close the door, and fit the wheel

Re-assemble the hose and tool holder (if you bothered to strip it at all) and fit it to the machine

Fit the cyclone seal

Fit the tools

Fit the cyclone

Turbo tool now!

Place the internal hose into the chassis

Clip the tool port end over the top, and clip it down

beko1987 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 13, 2016, 11:56:50 pm »

Fit the rubber seal, and sit the turbine housing over the chassis

Fit the clear top and screw it down

Pop the brushrolls on

Fit the baseplate

and Done!

The owner was very happy, I got paid, job jobbed! I hope this helps someone, it's quite different to other cylinder vacs really, even though it looks similar!