I was bored, so re-belted the clutch for my in bits DC07. Found it made a nice little how-to!
This is the same for a DC03, 04, 07 and 14 Clutch (in my experience)
Remove the clutch. On most machines it's baseplate off, brushroll out (the belt emoval tool is easy, 2 screwdrivers are harder, especially putting the new UNWORN belt back on...), brushroll carrier pout, and internal hose disconnected, 3 screws and clutch over off, slip the motor belt off and tug hard) DC03 is different, and if you dont have a clutch then this is the wrong tutorial for you!
Remove these two T20 screws
Some clutches have a tab that you press in and flick up with a screwdriver to release. Others, like this one just need a small turn to release
You can now change the Motor to Clutch belt
A cotton bud soaked in grease was spun round the bearing to fully grease it. Belt sits behind the locking tab around the pulley.
That bit done, we can strip the main clutch out. These two bits probably fell out when you tipped the clutch upside down. If not, do this now...
Next, take some Circlip pliers and pop the little clip off the end. There are two types of circlips, this type and an open ended type. My one tool fits both, so I imagine they are idential in dimensions
Sit the open end of the clutch on something, as them the circlip is removed the innards will spring forward and could potentially scatterhttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9kg5fLZYln8/Uvf1pByCeYI/AAAAAAAAUec/v2zOkB7vQ84/s800/IMG_20140209_212523.jpghttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vQ99vW7eH8o/Uvf1qF9c21I/AAAAAAAAUeY/2pcx83xydS4/s800/IMG_20140209_212532.jpg
Everything inside (almost)
Clutch to Brushroll belt next
It just pops up and out with a screwdriver. If your belt is snappedit will just fall out...
If this piece is badly worn then the clutch is scrap. A good pulley off an otherwise scrap clutch can be swapped in, infact any of the bits can...
Next, pop the new belt on the pulley, and push the belt through the hole from the inside
Push the pulley down into the hole flat, whilst pulling the belt. The pair should just slip down and the belt pulls down onto it
Drop of grease on the bearing race, to help it spin if the brushbar jams, and to hold the 3 ball bearings in during the next steps
The little bearing holder drops in
and then the top cog
Drop of grease on the centre spline
And push that through everything. The cogs have to match up, so they pass each other and depress fully. Not having them pass will result in the clutch permantly spinning even when off
It will ned to be handled with care once lined up, as it moves off so easily
Next, push the sprung insides in until fully home and mated, then I push the whole assembly down onto a bottle to keep the cog fully extended to put the circlip back on.
The top bearing probably fell out earlier too. Push it back in. It needs to be square or it will bind, I use a little screwdriver to gently push it down all around
Then sit the circlip ontop of the spline, and push it down until it clicks with the circlip pliers (or any pliers). Nip the ends together again and check it's seated. I've had worn ones fall off whilst running as they havent been seated correctly
And done, you can stop pushing down on it now!
Back to the other end of the assembly
The friction plate is likely to be quite worn. If your clutch doesnt stop when off, this could be the cause.
Simply turn the metal bit round so the worn side is facing down
A few blobs of grease to stick the friction plate to (dont get grease on the friction surface, basic brake safety!)
And put the friction plate worn side down onto it
Put the two parts together, and make sure the belt passes over the screw pillar where it goes to meet the motor
One re-belted, serviced clutch!