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Author Topic: DC47 strip down and motor replacement  (Read 9774 times)

Offline Newton Grave

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DC47 strip down and motor replacement
« on: January 10, 2018, 05:17:54 pm »
Have had the DC47 for a couple of years now and have found it very reliable... until the motor burnt out. I have to say this was probably not a design fault as when I investigated I found that the dust box was not only above the Max line but was completely full. I think otherwise I would have sent it back under guarantee.

Motors are available from eBay and probably elsewhere so I decided to have a go at replacement. It was not so easy, you can see the problems I had here https://manchestervacs.co.uk/DysonForum/index.php/topic,2971.0.html but I will, over the next few days, post a record of reassembly - in reverse order - to help anyone else who wants to do a motor replacement.

Offline Newton Grave

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Re: DC47 strip down and motor replacement
« Reply #1 on: January 10, 2018, 05:39:06 pm »
There are two sides to the ball, both of which are held on by plastic encapsulated nuts. The easiest is the filter side which is purple and has two cutouts to enable you to undo the nut. That one is easy.

The other side is the service side and is not meant to be user-accessible. You must insert a screwdriver and prise up the cap. Make sure you do not prise up the plate below which encapsulates the nut.






Offline Newton Grave

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Re: DC47 strip down and motor replacement
« Reply #2 on: January 10, 2018, 05:48:43 pm »
Next you need to remove the dust bowl and the small clear tube that engages with it. Then turn the vac upside down and remove the base plate held in place by 5 small screws.




Offline Newton Grave

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Re: DC47 strip down and motor replacement
« Reply #3 on: January 10, 2018, 06:00:35 pm »
Under the baseplate there is a spring loaded clip that centres the hose exit. This can safely be taken out without losing the springs, which are retained within it. This needs to be removed as one of the retaining screws is located underneath it.





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Offline Newton Grave

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Re: DC47 strip down and motor replacement
« Reply #4 on: January 23, 2018, 10:21:41 am »
Sorry for the hiatus. Have been having internet problems and had been unable to upload for over a week.

OK so next remove the screws holding the two halves of the casing together and holding the case to the motor assembly. Service side has 5 long black screws, two short black and one silver, shown below. DO NOT remove the three silver screws on the top of this side as this releases the cable drum brake and this will jam when trying to open the case..

There are an additional two short and one long screw on the filter side You may want to leave the two short screws into the motor housing on while you remove the lower case half.

The long screws connect the two halves of the case together and are vertical up/down and the short screws connect the case to the motor bucket assembly and go inwards.

Offline Newton Grave

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Re: DC47 strip down and motor replacement
« Reply #5 on: January 23, 2018, 10:37:36 am »
The bottom case comprises 3 parts, the case itself, the suction tube exit and a blanking plate that slots into the case where the tube sits.

Offline Newton Grave

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Re: DC47 strip down and motor replacement
« Reply #6 on: January 23, 2018, 10:53:08 am »
Once you have the lower case off you can remove the remaining two short screws to release the motor assembly, which has the cable reel attached. Remove the 5 silver screws to detach the cable reel from the motor. Replace motor bucket assembly and reassemble in reverse order.

 

Offline willi-heinrich

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Re: DC47 strip down and motor replacement
« Reply #7 on: December 25, 2019, 11:19:13 am »
Just to add to this post, because it´s been extremely helpful to me, facing the same challenge of "splitting the egg".

This addition is about the DC46, which is the non UK version of the DC47 (the same except for the plug, I assume...), a handy and small vac, so it would have been a shame to lose it.

The motor was burnt out due to a blocked airpath.  :(
Buying a new motor assembly at 60GBP and more was close to the market value of the vac, so no real option. After some hesitation, I managed to disassemble the motor unit, the biggest challenge being the removal of the rubber cover. After that, it is mostly straightforward. Now I could recognize the engine type, which is shown in pic 1. (SDS1304AZD)
I could not find that particular motor anywhere, neither new nor used. But a few slightly different numbers came up during the search.
Looking at pictures and technical data, the DC40 motor (non ERP) looks similar mechanically and electrically (SDS1354AZD). Of this motor, there is a good supply of new and used units, so I managed to get one used for a decent price. The number is shown in picture 2.

The remaining pictures show the similarity. However, having them side by side, there is one slight difference, which is the carbon brush assembly that sticks out wider in the DC40 motor. And of course too wide, so it did not fit in the housing. Luckily, the brush mount in the engine body is the same, so it´s a straightforward swap. After the swap, the motor fits perfectly into the housing.

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Motor is running fine now and everyone is happy. Another unit saved from an unfortunate death ;)
Cheers, Mike

Offline MVacs

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Re: DC47 strip down and motor replacement
« Reply #8 on: December 25, 2019, 03:42:49 pm »
Excellent info from both you and Newton above.  :thumbsup:

Offline willi-heinrich

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Re: DC47 strip down and motor replacement
« Reply #9 on: December 26, 2019, 09:55:20 pm »
Out of interest and for completeness´ sake, I made an attempt to disassemble the broken motor. The back cover is just a tight press fit, so can be pulled off with the help of a rubber mallet or careful bumps with a screwdriver, going round the edge in small steps.
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Be aware that it´s not easy to put the cover back on due to the tight fit - it was not relevant for me, but I tried and failed.
After that, the aluminium turbine wheel can be taken off by removing the central bolt with M10 head. Below is the plastic shroud for the turbine inlet, fixed with two phillips screws.
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That´s where it ends - the actual motor housing is spot welded and crimped, so it´s a bit more effort and I stopped there. Although after the above disassembly the motor turned freely again (which it did not do before), I did not bother to investigate any further what the actual reason for failure was. Some black stuff was visible coming out of some of the coils, so I assume some windings melted.
Cheers, Mike

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