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Ah, then motor it is!It is possible to drip some oil onto the bearings and hope that cures it:The top bearing is easy as that's at the top of the motor, simply stand the motor on the fancase and stick a good few drips of 3-in-1 oil on and let it soak in.The fancase bearing isn't as easy, and involves removing the fancase, undoing the fan nut, removing the nut, washer, fan, washer and spacer ring, then unscrewing the fancase back cover, then you can get at the fancase bearing in the same way. Or see if Mvacs have a good, used motor, TBH a brand new motor probably doesn't cost £140....You also need to feel confident to get the motor out and stripped apart exactly as I did above, as you'll need it at that state to get to the bearings. I don't recommend splitting the motor fully and replacing the bearings as their cheap motors, with mainly press-fitted components and you'd need a bearing puller and bearings, and a way to tap the new bearings on which is always a pain!
Quote from: beko1987 on October 18, 2018, 07:12:04 pmAh, then motor it is!It is possible to drip some oil onto the bearings and hope that cures it:The top bearing is easy as that's at the top of the motor, simply stand the motor on the fancase and stick a good few drips of 3-in-1 oil on and let it soak in.The fancase bearing isn't as easy, and involves removing the fancase, undoing the fan nut, removing the nut, washer, fan, washer and spacer ring, then unscrewing the fancase back cover, then you can get at the fancase bearing in the same way. Or see if Mvacs have a good, used motor, TBH a brand new motor probably doesn't cost £140....You also need to feel confident to get the motor out and stripped apart exactly as I did above, as you'll need it at that state to get to the bearings. I don't recommend splitting the motor fully and replacing the bearings as their cheap motors, with mainly press-fitted components and you'd need a bearing puller and bearings, and a way to tap the new bearings on which is always a pain!Thanks for your help! And the guide has been great to help me. Managed to put a new motor in and clean the plaster dust out of every single nook and cranny! Now it’s working a dream again. Thanks again for your help.
Simply pop the locking tab out to release the hose. Next, the clear cog that moves the rear wheels in time with the reclining action can be unscrewed (Attachment Link) Then the plastic tab that locks into the brushroll housing and stops the machine falling sideways when upright pops out, along with its spring (Attachment Link) Under the yolk assembly, usually hidden by the ball shells are 2 metal wheels that aid the shells to always rotate smoothly, these pop out (Attachment Link) The thread for the post motor filter shell has 2 washers, the same as the other side, but to stop these falling off when the ball shell is removed, they are held in with a plastic stopper, which unscrews (Attachment Link) And with that, the yolk assembly is stripped! The white part to the left seems pressed on, and will be damaged if removed, so I leave it alone. (Attachment Link) We can move back to the main machine (Attachment Link) And remove the screws that hold the PCB cover on (Attachment Link) The PCB sits in the exhaust air flow, so it was a little bit surprising to see all the fluff built up around it! (Attachment Link) We can start unplugging things now, starting with the yolk loom itself (Attachment Link)