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Author Topic: Dyson DC40 MK2 (Erp) - Step by Step Stripdown, Refurb and Re-assembly!  (Read 48586 times)

Offline bluebumble485

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Re: Dyson DC40 MK2 (Erp) - Step by Step Stripdown, Refurb and Re-assembly!
« Reply #30 on: September 09, 2018, 08:36:08 am »
do you find vacuuming the side paper filter is enough I put new or pressure wash mine just wondered if I am working to hard on them lol ,did one about 4 years ago when new I have forgot tbh till I saw this I should do this to remind me ,I have about 4 that brushbar don't turn to do ,or joblot maybe the answer
 

Offline beko1987

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Re: Dyson DC40 MK2 (Erp) - Step by Step Stripdown, Refurb and Re-assembly!
« Reply #31 on: September 10, 2018, 08:46:00 am »
No, TBH, vacuuming it off doesn't do much I find as all the fluff packs into the edges... I either wash them if their not too stained or just fit new, I suppose due to the age of them, the ones I've had have never been too stained yet. I did once spend time picking all the fluff out of the edges and then washed it, which worked OK but was borderline as to whether it was worth it or not!
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Offline vegi

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Re: Dyson DC40 MK2 (Erp) - Step by Step Stripdown, Refurb and Re-assembly!
« Reply #32 on: October 18, 2018, 03:17:50 pm »
Hi, great Stripdown.

My Dyson DC40 suffering the same problem with plaster dust (Thanks builder!). All the way through the entire system and now on the motor by the sound of it as its making a loud squealing when on, still sucks but just much noisier all of a sudden. Would taking it apart and cleaning it out get rid of the noise, or am I gonna need to put a new motor in do you think? Apparently it has dried out bearings in the motor.

Thanks

Offline beko1987

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Re: Dyson DC40 MK2 (Erp) - Step by Step Stripdown, Refurb and Re-assembly!
« Reply #33 on: October 18, 2018, 07:02:42 pm »
The easiest way to check is to remove the post motor filter and cyclone and turn it on, has the noise gone?

The noise is usually caused by the rubber seals not being quite as sealing as they should be, so the air escapes! Removing the suction will soon tell you if it's the motor or not
Collector and restorer of vintage vacuums, Dyson Appreciator! Come and see my blog, where I am uploading all my mountains of brochures, manuals and other vacuum cleaner paperwork, and also my youtube channel @beko1987!

Offline vegi

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Re: Dyson DC40 MK2 (Erp) - Step by Step Stripdown, Refurb and Re-assembly!
« Reply #34 on: October 18, 2018, 07:05:15 pm »
Yep noise is still there after they're both out. Dyson quoted me £140 to fix it as plaster dust isn't allowed. New motor then or is it possible to re-lubricate the current motor?

Offline beko1987

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Re: Dyson DC40 MK2 (Erp) - Step by Step Stripdown, Refurb and Re-assembly!
« Reply #35 on: October 18, 2018, 07:12:04 pm »
Ah, then motor it is!

It is possible to drip some oil onto the bearings and hope that cures it:

The top bearing is easy as that's at the top of the motor, simply stand the motor on the fancase and stick a good few drips of 3-in-1 oil on and let it soak in.

The fancase bearing isn't as easy, and involves removing the fancase, undoing the fan nut, removing the nut, washer, fan, washer and spacer ring, then unscrewing the fancase back cover, then you can get at the fancase bearing in the same way. Or see if Mvacs have a good, used motor, TBH a brand new motor probably doesn't cost £140....

You also need to feel confident to get the motor out and stripped apart exactly as I did above, as you'll need it at that state to get to the bearings. I don't recommend splitting the motor fully and replacing the bearings as their cheap motors, with mainly press-fitted components and you'd need a bearing puller and bearings, and a way to tap the new bearings on which is always a pain!
Collector and restorer of vintage vacuums, Dyson Appreciator! Come and see my blog, where I am uploading all my mountains of brochures, manuals and other vacuum cleaner paperwork, and also my youtube channel @beko1987!

Offline vegi

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Re: Dyson DC40 MK2 (Erp) - Step by Step Stripdown, Refurb and Re-assembly!
« Reply #36 on: October 22, 2018, 10:25:36 pm »
Ah, then motor it is!

It is possible to drip some oil onto the bearings and hope that cures it:

The top bearing is easy as that's at the top of the motor, simply stand the motor on the fancase and stick a good few drips of 3-in-1 oil on and let it soak in.

The fancase bearing isn't as easy, and involves removing the fancase, undoing the fan nut, removing the nut, washer, fan, washer and spacer ring, then unscrewing the fancase back cover, then you can get at the fancase bearing in the same way. Or see if Mvacs have a good, used motor, TBH a brand new motor probably doesn't cost £140....

You also need to feel confident to get the motor out and stripped apart exactly as I did above, as you'll need it at that state to get to the bearings. I don't recommend splitting the motor fully and replacing the bearings as their cheap motors, with mainly press-fitted components and you'd need a bearing puller and bearings, and a way to tap the new bearings on which is always a pain!

Thanks for your help! And the guide has been great to help me. Managed to put a new motor in and clean the plaster dust out of every single nook and cranny! Now it’s working a dream again. Thanks again for your help.

Offline beko1987

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Re: Dyson DC40 MK2 (Erp) - Step by Step Stripdown, Refurb and Re-assembly!
« Reply #37 on: October 23, 2018, 07:47:10 pm »
Ah, then motor it is!

It is possible to drip some oil onto the bearings and hope that cures it:

The top bearing is easy as that's at the top of the motor, simply stand the motor on the fancase and stick a good few drips of 3-in-1 oil on and let it soak in.

The fancase bearing isn't as easy, and involves removing the fancase, undoing the fan nut, removing the nut, washer, fan, washer and spacer ring, then unscrewing the fancase back cover, then you can get at the fancase bearing in the same way. Or see if Mvacs have a good, used motor, TBH a brand new motor probably doesn't cost £140....

You also need to feel confident to get the motor out and stripped apart exactly as I did above, as you'll need it at that state to get to the bearings. I don't recommend splitting the motor fully and replacing the bearings as their cheap motors, with mainly press-fitted components and you'd need a bearing puller and bearings, and a way to tap the new bearings on which is always a pain!

Thanks for your help! And the guide has been great to help me. Managed to put a new motor in and clean the plaster dust out of every single nook and cranny! Now it’s working a dream again. Thanks again for your help.

Fantastic, that's great to hear! Now you can spend £140 on something else, man-maths at its finest! (or female-maths, I've no idea what your gender is!)
Collector and restorer of vintage vacuums, Dyson Appreciator! Come and see my blog, where I am uploading all my mountains of brochures, manuals and other vacuum cleaner paperwork, and also my youtube channel @beko1987!

Offline ToriDK

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Hi Becko,

Is it a fairly simple job to change the 'change over valve hose' on a DC40?

Mine had an unfortunate accident with a popsickle stick and now keeps collapsing. I'm located in Denmark and spare parts for Dyson's are are just not available, so the shop that repaired it just built up/reinforced the hose, which just blocked up instantly. If I order the part from the UK could I change it, or is it a major strip down? In which case I just go back to the reapir shop with the new part.

Thanks in advance for your help.


Offline beko1987

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It's not too tricky tbh. You'll have to remove both of the 'balls'/shells. Then youll see the changeover valve.

Now, which hose? If it's the small tiny one that sits right under the main hose, and flicks between the two suction paths, that's a few TINY screws and it lifts out...

If it's the other hose that runs under the machine to the brushroll housing, that's a little trickier as you need to remove a fair few parts (from my stripdown thread, basically you need to get to the point you have the Yolk off in your hand, which is a bit of work but not horrific
Collector and restorer of vintage vacuums, Dyson Appreciator! Come and see my blog, where I am uploading all my mountains of brochures, manuals and other vacuum cleaner paperwork, and also my youtube channel @beko1987!

Offline Halcyon

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Re: Dyson DC40 MK2 (Erp) - Step by Step Stripdown, Refurb and Re-assembly!
« Reply #40 on: December 30, 2019, 10:58:05 pm »
So basically MK2 is 700w model, am I right? Or is it a model with the slider on the cleaner head?

Offline J.Vanson

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Simply pop the locking tab out to release the hose. Next, the clear cog that moves the rear wheels in time with the reclining action can be unscrewed

(Attachment Link)

Then the plastic tab that locks into the brushroll housing and stops the machine falling sideways when upright pops out, along with its spring

(Attachment Link)

Under the yolk assembly, usually hidden by the ball shells  are 2 metal wheels that aid the shells to always rotate smoothly, these pop out

(Attachment Link)

The thread for the post motor filter shell has 2 washers, the same as the other side, but to stop these falling off when the ball shell is removed, they are held in with a plastic stopper, which unscrews

(Attachment Link)

And with that, the yolk assembly is stripped! The white part to the left seems pressed on, and will be damaged if removed, so I leave it alone.

(Attachment Link)

We can move back to the main machine

(Attachment Link)

And remove the screws that hold the PCB cover on

(Attachment Link)

The PCB sits in the exhaust air flow, so it was a little bit surprising to see all the fluff built up around it!

(Attachment Link)

We can start unplugging things now, starting with the yolk loom itself

(Attachment Link)

Please can someone help me find the plastic tab that locks into the brushroll housing and stops the machine falling sideways when upright. Mine has snapped and i need a replacement.

Offline Gerard131929

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Offline Ben

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Thank you for this Sam you don’t know how many times this has saved me when I’ve got stuck and wanted to throw the bloody thing out of a window.
After doing a few dc40 ERP machines now I’ve noticed that they seem to have a lot more suction than the new generation light ball and ball animal 2 machines that replaced them.
I have owned a ball animal 2 machine from new and although I think it’s carpet cleaning ability is second to none (for a Dyson) the dc40 ERP still vastly trump them and the light ball on suction.
Does anyone know why from what I’ve seen the dc40 use the trusty old Panasonic motor that’s supposedly 850w whilst the new generation ball machines use Dysons own YDK motor which I think is rated to 700w.
Has anyone had anything to do with these new machines eg motor removal or anything such as it seems to look more like a dc24 motor.
Sorry for the rant but if the new generation machines had the same motor I think they would be perfect in fact one day I might try and retrofit one into it.
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