Dyson V10 - Stripdown and Refurb!

[beko1987]

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It is time! Time for a poorly Dyson V10! Dyson had refused to repair it due to plaster dust (and I expect the wrong words by the owner) so it came my way! At first, I did this to it

However that turned out to not be the issue, so I had it back (pre-arranged, I did tell the owner it might not have been that, and she was fine with it. So, of course, let's strip it down!





The problem was soon found







But, we can't stop there can we... The wands started off being very promising, as both end caps unscrewed nicely



Revealing a nice wodge of fluff all around the power connectors



Screws on the other end



Revealing some nice looking clips

[beko1987]

Let's unscrew the wiring block first





However... no matter what I did, the ends would not come out of the wand, even with the clips released. I assume it was all pressed together, and as I did not want to break it, I admitted defeat at this stage



wiped it all down and re-assembled it! Onto the floor head!



Brushroll out



Revealing the massive motor housing



The rubber blade at the back pops out, housing and all



Then the blade slides out of the housing



We can see the screws that hold the top cover on now

[beko1987]

The cover lifts up at the edges, but needs popping out of the centre part, luckily the plastic is quite pliable so easily done



The 3 screws at the front enable the clear* head to lift off



The brushroll motor housing lifts out here too, although I'd advise leaving it in for now as you cant remove it yet!



As first the rear wheels need to come off



Which were in good* condition



I removed the screws next that sit under the wheels and hold the pivot together



Although whilst doing that realised the whole thing slid out of the other part! So put the screws down for a sec



And took a picture of that



Back to the pivot (and this should be very familiar to anyone who'se had a modern dyson head apart before as it's identical) but the pivot pulls apart, and you can start to release the wires

[beko1987]

Under the ratings plate sticker sits another screw. Remove that and the housing drops back to access the wiring run



Pull the wires out, and part of the pivot/suction duct comes away, the rest is daisy-chained with the motor loom



Usual filth



Time to release the wiring. Pop the wiring plug up and out of the head



And release the terminals, and pull everything through and off the wires!





Onto the brushroll motor. Now, full disclosure time, I did break this, and had to obtain another head (luckily the v6 has an identical head so it was very cheap, infact incredibly cheap as it was free (the donor knows who he is, thank you very much! ) but, it does show how not to do it, and the motor, so I will write it all up!



First, pluck the wires out from under the rubber seal, then the whole end assembly does unclip from the motor housing fairly easily, feeding the wires back through as you pull



Which reveals the motor

[beko1987]

That's not where it went wrong though, this is. You see, I tried to remove the metal bar that turns the brushroll. There's a circlip that comes off (which I failed to get a good picture of...)





Then a split pin that can be removed



Now, what you don't do is try and tap the bar into the housing, as it's a proper tight press fit into the bearing and then housing, and what you actually do is push the motor off the bar, which is a problem. What then ensues is a right battle trying to pull the motor out of the housing, as it is VERY tight, and all you can do is flick it out 0.3mm at a time until...



You can see the 2 annoying seals. These 3 cogs shouldn't be on here either



They should sit in here



So I dropped them back on using a long screwdriver





Then refitted the motor. However, I had moved the bar slightly, but could not tap it back, short of smacking it too hard and snapping the bearing out of the housing. With time, you possibly could do this, and I do still have the head to try, but as it was, it would not turn (as the tolerances were not right) and it needed to go back to the owner before she smelt a rat, so another head was speedily acquired, I put this to one side

[beko1987]

The main bit, the machine itself!



First off, whip the battery out!. 1 screw at the back



And 2 underneath



Safety first and yadda yadda



Next, open the bin



Then remove it by pushing the tab down





Now, the lower flap probably can be removed, however V10 bins aren't exactly 99p on ebay, and knowing how brittle these can be if forced the wrong way I opted to leave it alone. There also seems to be a spring inside the hinge mechanism too



It's fine anyway, will wash up nicely enough. The seals come out easily

[beko1987]

The latch mechanism seems to consist of this rotating cog, held in with a tiny screw



The other screw holds the big inner sealing ring in place, and once removed, and a screwdriver used internally to flick the ring out of it's latches



It can be withdrawn



The handle to open the bin pops off. noting the tiny spring



The (spotless) filter is removed



Revealing the 4 screws at the rear, and 2 at the back of the bin slide bit of the housing



To start to remove the wiring loom to the head, a blunt screwdriver and smack with the back of your hand pops the plug back into the machine (I did this here so one of the cyclone screw standoffs didn't snap off or something annoying like that.



And the rear half of the machine can be removed




Revealing the motor

[beko1987]

Well, nearly, there's a cover in the way first. 2 screws and some tabs



PCB for the thing



The blurry wire that's removed from the PCB is the data wire from the battery (runs the battery indicator LED or something I assume)



The blue wire for the speed control, live and neutral from the battery are removed, then the whole motor assembly slides out of the machine



the motor then slides out of it's housing



Then finally the black sponge (diffuser?) from the back of the motor



This is the motor. I didn't prod it too much as I imagine it's quite an expensive and annoying thing to find...





So have some pics instead! Back to the housing, the speed control slider pops out with a flick from a fingernail on one side

[beko1987]

Then the little circuit board slides out of the housing, rubber seal and all



Next up is the housing that brings the cables up from the battery to the motor (I forgot to say, bend the ends of the mains cables flat to really help removal of the motor, and this bit!). Using a flexible screwdriver, remove the 2 screws



Then feed the wires out, minding not to rip the tiny data wire



Flipping the thing over, and just like the V6, one screw holds the whole shebang in



Allowing for easy removal





Empty!



Onto the cyclone arrangement now

[beko1987]

Removing this one screw removes the bin slide which makes it alot easier to work with



And the first 4 screws can be removed from the central cone



Which lifts off



Revealing lots of stuck dust



The rubber seal lifts off



Next up is the shroud.



Remove the 4 screws, then pop it out of place by the suction inlet



Then slide it off



The bin emptying mechanism might clean the outside of the shroud off, but like every good Dyson it doesnt touch the inside

[beko1987]

Now, we can see more screws



Which splits the cyclone



To remove the wires, push the small plug out



Open it up and remove the terminals



And it can be fully withdrawn



The inner filth can be seen. I'm sure in the older Dysons the fine dust in the inner cone just fell out into the bin alot more?



The 4 inner cones lift out



And all the foam seals pull carefully off



And it's apart! A nice pile for washing

[beko1987]

A pile not for washing



I used my screwdriver set usually reserved for Thinkpad tinkering for this, the screws are TINY, again just like all the other modern ones



And the screws themselves



Everything was washed, dried and polished



And reassembled! Starting by putting the foam seals back on the cones







The middle 4 cones were slid back in (make sure the slots at the back are properly aligned)



Clean!

[beko1987]

Best start wiring it up again!



But this time, we can start from the front and wire the main body - to - wand plug up and fit it back in



Rubber seal on



Shroud next, and I've tried to show it, but again slots have to line up for it to refit properly



Then *click*



The 2 halves can be bought together now



As can the parts of the cyclone assembly



Which is looking much cleaner



Then screw it all together! Long screws at the top for the cyclone, shorter ones for the cone to shroud

[beko1987]

Onto the bin now, and the red release latch needs fitting. The spring is actually very easy, as it's not under alot of tension, so fit the spring to the red bit, then offer the red lever up to the bin, hooking the spring over it's holder as you go, then clip the other side on



Check it bounces with movement



Clip the top seal back on



Screw the bin slide back onto the cyclone



And I fitted the seals to the bin flap, then the bin to the cyclone



It's surprisingly hard to operate the bin emptying mechanism like this, without the handle to hold! Anyway, onto electrical matters, refitting the trigger and cables



Feed the wires through as you go



Then screw it down (yes you will drop the screw about 17 times trying to get it to go in if it's not a magnetic driver...)



Fit the wiring duct and screw it back down

[beko1987]

Fit the speed adjustment PCB



And clip the slider down. It works by magic, so doesn't need to line up with anything on the PCB, it just 'knows'



Motor now



Slot it back together



And clip the speed control and battery data wire in, then screw the main voltage wires down, carefully bending the ends back to right angles as you go



Pop the motor cover on



Then screw the motor assembly to the cyclone assembly



Fit the battery and filter and check operation. All good? You should be if you followed this correctly!



By this point, my saviour had delivered, so this is the new, working motor housing as I'd had this a few days now and didn't want to get chased up, I'll fix the broken one one day and send it back to be used, so assume I didn't break anything, and that all is original and well (gosh the dyson fan boys are going to have a right old laugh at this one... Ah well, if the maount of V6's I'm repairing at the moment is anything to go by these have 3/4 years before they all start to fail then who will be laughing?)