Miele S5281 clogged motor

[MPS]

• Tweet

Hello,

The motor to my Miele S5281 has stopped working due to a blockage. I suspect the cause is the thermal cut out fuse at the back of the motor.

How do I get hold of one and how do I replace it.

I have searched ebay and Miele spares suppliers and cannot source one. Will I have to contact Miele themselves?

I suppose the fuse will need replacing and cannot simply be reset?

Thanks very much.

[MVacs]

Have you bench tested this motor?

[MPS]

No, I don't have the facilities.

[MVacs]

There seems little point trying to speculatively source parts that are probably not the cause of the issue.

Let's say this: We've probably found less than half a dozen faulty thermal cut outs in the last decade. And we repair double digits of machines every day.

The fact you are unable to source a thermal cut out tells us there is no demand for them because they seldom break.

If you are unable to bench test the motor it may be best to take it to a repair shop who can.

[MPS]

Thanks for your reply.

However my understanding is that if the motor became cogged due to debris entering the fan of the motor, then it is likely that the motor with overheat causing to thermal cut out to blow!

The motor was working, but i stupidly ran the cleaner for a short time without a bag or filter present.

[MVacs]

Here's the issue:

Debris has entered the motor. The motor has likely burned out, but assuming the TOC switched, it would cool down and work again 20 mins later. A faulty TOC is unlikely.

We dont know the condition of the armature.

We dont know if you blew it out with an airline.

We dont know if you have a multimeter or if you know how to use it.

You say you are unable to conduct a bench test. Which tells us you lack basic electrical knowledge and basic tools. At that point it is a job for a repair shop. 99.9% buying a TOC online isn't going to fix your problem.

[beko1987]

To really troubleshoot it you need to remove the motor (I have an S5 tutorial around here somewhere, their all the same at the motor level).

Miele motors are common to not blow the thermal triac, but to blow a leg off, which is fixable, but you don't know until you get in there!

Strip it down (you'll need a torx driver, can't remember the size off my head although its the same size for the entire machine). Scroll through this until you find where the motor comes apart and it's the 'thermal sensor' that hopefully has a leg blown off, otherwise you'll need to replace the triac and hope, which I have never done before

https://manchestervacs.co.uk/DysonForum/index.php/topic,3757.0.html

[macman]

Every Miele I have ever had come in (probably about 5 in total) with a reported blown motor, has upon stripdown turned out to have a motor blocked with debris from an ill-fitting pattern bag. In every case, the motor itself (brushes and commutator) has been undamaged, Twice, the TOC was clogged but not burnt out, and a thorough clean out restored power. On the other three, the TOC was repairable with just a blob of solder on the PCB (and, if you saw my soldering skills, you'd be amazed at that). If it's burnt out, the damage will be very obvious once removed from the motor housing. Not once have I actually had to replace the TOC or solder on a new triac.
If you need to replace the TOC, which is just a pushfit part, your best option is to buy a dead machine and hope to salvage a working TOC.
The chance of Miele supplying this part to anyone except their own service shops is less than zero.
Beko, I think that most of the screws on these are T20, but you can get away with a Dyson-style T15 usually. A motor stripdown or change on a Miele is a lot easier than on most Dysons.

[beko1987]

Yep that's about my experiences of it, although I pick the machine up 6 months after it's been run with a clogged fan and some part has said no and killed itself!

Miele motors are lovely to strip down but try not to remove the comm if you can help it, I find there's a smell of carbon as the brushes bed themselves back in

[MPS]

Photos of motor cut out

Cannot see any faults, other than one of the traic legs may be slightly loose, needing a blob of solder.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

[beko1987]

Mmm no, that looks OK, drop of solder won't hurt though. What's the armature like? Are the ends of the carbon brushes nice and clean and touching the comm? Presume the motor spins by hand?

[MPS]

Brushes are Ok. The motor spins by hand.

I cannot remove the motor to inspect further. I thought you could tap it out from the end?

[beko1987]

Comm? What's the surface like the brushes run against? Motor looks generally very clean though so I doubt it's that... It does all tap out but I don't recommend it unless the bearings need doing.

Step 2 then, pull the cord reel right the way out and inspect where the cable enters the reel

Step 3 is to multimeter the switch...

[macman]

To remove the motor, first take out the brushes and holderd, they just pull off. Then you need to free off the spring clip that can be seen at the bottom centre of the pic above. Once the tiny lug on that is moved slightly, then the motor should slide out.
The TOC looks OK visually to me.

[MPS]

Should the motor tap out from the back for further inspection?

I have tried tapping it with a hammer, it's not moving. Maybe I should try a smaller hammer.

Thanks.