Dyson & Sebo Vacuum Cleaner Repair & Advice Forums
Dyson Models => Dyson DC14, DC17, DC27, DC28 and DC33 => Topic started by: beko1987 on May 14, 2017, 09:07:26 pm
-
I took these pictures ages ago (back in November 2016 I think) , so thought it best to write them up! This will show you step by step how to change the motor in a clutched DC14!
You will need:
An Motor - https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC14-spares.html/dyson-motor-ydk-yv-dc04-dc07-dc14-dc27-dc33 (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC14-spares.html/dyson-motor-ydk-yv-dc04-dc07-dc14-dc27-dc33)
An Post Motor Filter, either -
Pad - https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC14-spares.html/DC07-DC14-Post-Motor-Filter-Pad (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC14-spares.html/DC07-DC14-Post-Motor-Filter-Pad)
Or HEPA, depending on what your machine currently has, both are interchangeable though) https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC14-spares.html/DC07-DC14-HEPA-filter (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC14-spares.html/DC07-DC14-HEPA-filter)
A Belt Lifter makes the job alot easier (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC14-spares.html/Dyson-Belt-Removal-Tool (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC14-spares.html/Dyson-Belt-Removal-Tool)) but it's not critical.
Right, onto the job itself!
[attachimg=1]
Remove the bin
[attachimg=2]
Remove the cable
[attachimg=3]
Remove the Wand
[attachimg=4]
and remove the hose
[attachimg=5]
[attachimg=6]
Next, undo this screw behind the switch
[attachimg=7]
Then, with a flatblade screwdriver, gently pop these tabs back (I think this is the last thing to be written up with images from my old phone thank goodness!)
[attachimg=8]
They just push back into the machine (which half pushes the switch cover off in the process on the other side)
[attachimg=9]
-
You will see it separating
[attachimg=1]
Just pull it off!
[attachimg=2]
Here is the switch and mains cable join
[attachimg=3]
Pull it all out
[attachimg=4]
Open the black box and separate the two blue wires
[attachimg=5]
Pull the brown wire from the switch and the cable is off! Remove the other wire from the switch too
[attachimg=6]
Feed the spinal cable out the back of the chassis, and pull it from the cable run
[attachimg=7]
Next, we need to remove the Post Motor Filter. If you have suffered the full house motor blowout this will be messy...
Pop the two tabs carefully up
[attachimg=8]
[attachimg=9]
-
Then one last tab at the front
[attachimg=1]
and off it lifts!
[attachimg=2]
This isn't the worst one I've seen! If it properly catches fire this goes all crispy!
[attachimg=3]
Now, remove the clutch cover. Prise it off from the top and bottom of the join with a good screwdriver, the clips will give up fairly easily
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
Now flip the machine over, and twist the 3 tabs 1/4 a turn and remove the base plate
[attachimg=6]
[attachimg=7]
Lift the belt if you have the lifter, or just remove the brushroll
[attachimg=8]
[attachimg=9]
At this point, go and cut all the hair and threads off your brushroll! It's much easier when it's out of the machine
-
Now to remove the inner brushroll housing. I use a screwdriver very carefully at the edges by the pivot points. A slight prise up and they pop out. Keep everything square though
[attachimg=1]
When it's hanging, pull the internal hose off the machine
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Remove the wand u-bend suction channel
[attachimg=4]
Then, remove the clutch cover. Put the machine in the 'upright' position if it isn't already. One screw is hidden 10cm down in this hole
[attachimg=5]
The other two are more easy to spot! Then lift the cover off and out
[attachimg=6]
Pop the motor to clutch belt off
[attachimg=7]
Grab both belts and pull HARD AND FIRMLY
[attachimg=8]
And off it comes! If the belts are knackered or the white wheel has melted away, search the forums because we have rebuild threads, and Mvacs sell the white wheel, or a reconditioned clutch.
[attachimg=9]
-
Now for the main head. Either side is a plastic circlip. Pop one end up and the rest will follow
[attachimg=1]
Once removed, flop the machine down like so
[attachimg=2]
Then pull either end out slightly
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
and lift the head off the vacuum
[attachimg=5]
Remove the air path cover next to the motor by pushing up the clip and lifting the cover off
[attachimg=6]
[attachimg=7]
Now, remove 4 screws. 2 here on one side
[attachimg=8][attachimg=9]
-
And two the other side
[attachimg=1]
Lift the motor unit off the chassis and pull the wire through
[attachimg=2]
Pull the edges of the front cover out and lift off the motor housing
[attachimg=3]
Push this cable grommit into the housing
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
Then release the 4 tabs holding the locking ring onto the housing
[attachimg=6]
[attachimg=7]
On some flooring that won't be marked, hold the motor belt spindle down by the housing, and push hard. It should move upwards an inch, then grab the black fancase seal and pull the motor out. The wires will either come easily or get caught on this part here
[attachimg=8]
The old motor is out!
[attachimg=9]
Remove the rubber seals and give them a bit of a clean so they seal nicely again, and clean the motor housing (if it's filthy, pop it in the dishwasher or wash it with soapy water and a brush! Dry it obviously...)
Now, get your new motor and we can begin re-assembly
-
[attachimg=1]
First, connect the wires back up, and possibly pop a lick of tape around the connections so they don't pull apart, because it's annoying having to strip the entire thing down again just to pop a wire back in!)
[attachimg=2]
Rubber it up. The belt spindle end is keyed with a fat and thin protrusion. Hold the motor like so, observing where the cable will sit around the side of the carbon brush and exits the motor housing, then fit the seal to the motor so the keyed segments will be in the correct location.
[attachimg=3]
Pop a thin smear of grease or WD40 or childrens bubble solution around the inside of the motor housing
[attachimg=4]
Then slide the motor home, ensuring the seal fits properly
[attachimg=5]
Refit the locking ring, it's keyed too so only goes on one way
[attachimg=6]
Pop the cable back through the machine using this hole
[attachimg=7]
Refit the outer trim to the motor housing, then fit that to the chassis (lean the chassis up against something, it makes it much easier!) The housing should sit like this against the inner channel
[attachimg=8]
Put the 4 screws back in and run the cable up the machine and into the switch housing area
[attachimg=9]
-
Pop the air duct back on
[attachimg=1]
Fit a new post motor filter
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Then snap the cover back down (it slides into the back first, then pushes down and clips on)
[attachimg=4]
Refit the main cleaner head
[attachimg=5]
[attachimg=6]
And check the changeover valve operates properly, and re-fit the circlips
[attachimg=7]
Clutch now. Before fitting the clutch, ensure it's the correct way up, then slip the small belt over the motor spindle. Then fit the clutch to it's housing, ensuring the locating groove is met at the top and bottom, it should push nicely flush with the screw posts
[attachimg=8]
Ensure the metal belt guard is fitted to the clutch cover
[attachimg=9]
-
Then fit that and screw it down!
[attachimg=1]
Brushroll housing now, fit the hose to the machine first (push fit)
[attachimg=2]
Then fit the housing to the head. The hose acts as a spring too, when you push on the back of the brushroll housing it should spring back nicely. If it does not, rotate the hose a fraction either way until it does, or replace the hose as it's knackered)
[attachimg=3]
Refit the brushroll
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
and base plate
[attachimg=6]
U-Bend on
[attachimg=7]
Switch now, pop the mains cable back in and route the cable
[attachimg=8]
Connect the switch and neutral wire up
[attachimg=9]
-
Rest the switch button on the switch
[attachimg=1]
Then lower the housing over that, check both tabs click in and pop the screw in
[attachimg=2]
Refit the hose, wand and take it for a test drive! I hope the wires didn't pull apart on you...
[attachimg=3]
All done! I hope this helped, please comment if you have any questions, there's about 20 of us on here who can help!
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
-
Great thread as always Beko!
BTW - did you cut the cable back a bit? I noticed the spades wern't the original dyson ones on the power cable, and the plug doesn't quite go round the top cord hook? anyways good work!
Edit: just noticed its a difffernt machine from the start - at the end its an animal, the start it had all the white buttos etc.
-
Well spotted! Yes the cables cut back, they break as they enter the machine regularly
-
Great guide :tiphat:
-
Excellent work! It was a guide like this which helped me fix my own and both got me into Dysons and got me to this forum (for better or worse! :))).
Thanks, Beko!
-
Excellent work! It was a guide like this which helped me fix my own and both got me into Dysons and got me to this forum (for better or worse! :))).
Thanks, Beko!
Definatly for better :underchair:
-
you are amazing as always sam :thumbsup: I would do mine own one of these but I cant upload pics on here :snivel: