Dyson & Sebo Vacuum Cleaner Repair & Advice Forums
Other Vacuum Cleaners & Site Suggestions => Hoover Vacuum Cleaners => Topic started by: beko1987 on February 01, 2022, 07:58:08 pm
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I think this was a job for Our Mvacs, but either way, tonight's topic is about this lovely Hoover 612, with non original but genuine replacement bag!
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It had a working lightbulb in
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Although underneath was not too pretty...
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Serial Numbers running from J.672400 started in January 1955, then the next batch of J.718880 started in July 1955, so March-ish 1955 she was made I'd imagine.
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And some initial damage, although not too bad really
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Let's get started, looks a bit sorry for itself
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The paintwork is not too bad
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Here is everything for the handle
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Time to remove the bag first
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Looks lovely
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Top clamp holder off
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Then I removed the bag from the bag flange
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Onto the machine now. Belt guard off
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Brushroll and belt removed
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Unscrew at both end caps until one turns, and remove that one
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Then hit with a hammer to extract the spindle
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Remove the other end cap and bearing and wobble washer from the axle, then remove the screws and brush strips from the brushroll barrel
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Next, underneath the vacuum, undo the 2 hood screws
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Then carefully flip over and remove the hood
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Hood retaining brackets removed
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The brass decorative strip unscrews from the top of the lens cutout in the hood
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Then the Hoover letters were removed
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With the hood now stripped, it's time to move on
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The first thing is to remove the cable from the handle bail. 2 connections here
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Then this guide thing is also a clamp, remove the screw
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And pull it out
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The handle bail spring can be removed from the machine too
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Next, undo the nut and remove the handle bail bolt and washer
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This inner spring is welded to the bail and can't be removed
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Onto wiring now. This machine is original as far as wiring goes so it should work for other 612's. The red wire runs from the lower terminal on the bulb holder, around through a wire tidy and to the switch
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The other red wire comes off the switch and to the live terminal for the mains flex
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Things escalate quickly as we can remove the wiring terminal AND motor completely now
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Motor housing-Chassis gasket peeled off
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The neutral wire runs from the main cable to one carbon brush terminal. Then another wire goes from the terminal to the top bulb holder terminal
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We can remove the neutral wire from the terminal block
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Then the wires/carbon brush
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Then bulb holder.
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The next thing to be removed is the 1950's (more likely 1940's in design and manufacture...) RF supressor...
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With that out of the way, the yellow live wire to the coil can come off the lower bulb holder terminal, then we can undo the smoll screw holding the bulb holder to the motor housing
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Remove both carbons
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Then, at the top of the motor, remove the 3 remaining top bearing screws (the 4th came off with the supressor ground wire)
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By holding the suction fan and twisting, the top cooling fan will untwist from the armature
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Layer 1 is done. Now remove the 4 screws holding the rest of the motor housing together
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I leave the carbon holders in when washing the housing, their always fine.
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The coil comes out now, remove the nuts and bolts holding it on
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Next, hold the armature with one hand and twist the fan with the other in the opposite direction. The belt spindle should start to loosen. If not, some vice grips on the belt spindle help, but you need to undo the belt spindle, then remove the fan, then the red fibre washer, all the tiny spacer washers behind it, then the spacer block. The armature comes out of the front bearing now
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It's grim, but the bearing is riveted in place, and will clean up OK yet
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Now the motor is out of the way, on the chassis we can see the little screw holding the handle release pedal in place
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With a small circlip the other end
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It can all be removed
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Next, remove the 2 screws holding the switch into place
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The pedal comes away first
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And the pedal unscrews from the arm even still
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I leave the centre pivot part alone though
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We have one more screw holding the wiring harness in and the switch can come out
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On the switch itself is a rubber boot
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Then the shallow nuts can be undone and the switch removed from the holder
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Next, we need to remove the back wheels. Some downwards pressure is needed to push the springs down whilst the retaining pins are removed
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Their not under masses of tension though
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The rear wheels are held on with a circlip each
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The springs needed to be peeled off the filth on this bit!
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Next, we remove the front wheels
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A circlip each and they slide off the axle
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Then the axle unscrews from the chassis
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The next thing to come off is the tool port
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Which splits down more with the removal of the retaining bar.
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The belt guard spring comes off next, which then releases the cover plate
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The bumper stayed on for this restoration. Firstly I had not found my new way of re-attaching them, B it didn't really need to come off anyway
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The bag took several washes before it stopped doing this
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But eventually everything was washed, polished, all the metal parts were cleaned up on the wire wheel and it was ready for re-assembly
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The original paintwork washed then polished then waxed up really well
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Bit of Patina here and there but otherwise all good
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I even re-painted the heads of the originally painted screws...
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And we start with the tool port, which I had to paint as it was just too corroded
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Flap re-assembled (this is pushed out of the way when the tool adapter is inserted, then the adapter wraps around the fan diverting the 'suction')
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It can then be fitted to the machine
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Wheel axles back in, with a little bit of grease to stop the wheels squeaking
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Wheels back on
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Rear wheels next
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The housing survived under the dirt quite well
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Wheels refitted
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Then it's time to sit the springs onto the chassis
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Then carefully and evenly press down until the holes line up and fit the retaining bars
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Switch time now! Refit the switch to the holder and put the rubber cap back on
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Then slide the outer sheathing back on to the switch wires
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Switch arm back together
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Then it can be refitted, clamping the cable out of the way of the wheel
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Next, refit the recline pedal and bracket (guess what I had to take out not long before taking this photo...)
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Then we can rebuild the motor. Start with the fancase bearing
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The 2 nuts and bolts
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And refit the coil
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Refit the armature. Fat spacer, thin washers then red fibre washer go on the other side
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Then remove all those washers as I forgot to tell you to flood the bearing with oil, you should be able to spin it by hand and feel it free up, it should free spin for ages. Then refit the washers and then the fan and belt spindle
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Up top, fit the upper motor housing cover, then screw the cooling fan back on
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Then a small smear of grease on the top of the armature and refit the top bearing (it's a dry sleeve bearing, but a drop of grease takes up any imperfections present after nearly 70 years
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Fit one of the yellow coil wires to the nearest carbon brush holder, with a carbon brush underneath it
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I then tend to stick the motor down to the chassis with a smart bead of silicone (I usually use clear, but I only had white at this time). The original seal is always dry and awful, this ensures a fully airtight seal and usually makes a big difference
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We can then wire the other yellow wire to the bulb holder, then run the switch wires where they need to go, as well and the neutral.
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The RF supressor is the type that just goes into the existing circuit, rather than having the circuit built around it as they later did, so it's a nice easy job
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I gave the Hoover letters and trim a good polish with autosol
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We can then refit the handle bail and bolt it in, then run the (new) flex through the handle bail and screw it all up
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We were missing the original cable clamp, so I improvised with zip ties
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This spring is great fun to refit...
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Onto the brushroll now, all freshly painted, the brush strips can be refitted
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Then the re greased bearings and end stuff refitted to make a brand new brushroll!
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Fitted with a new belt
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Then covered back up
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Now we can place the machine on it's wheels I feel safer fitting the hood
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One final check and fit the bulb back
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And that looks lovely!
I fitted the nice age appropriate MK back to the new flex
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Getting there
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The replacement bag had a sort of fill tube in it, so I extended it with zip ties and an old junior fill tube, and fitted an inner Sebo bag
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And with that, the restoration was complete
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A nice refurb on a good daily driver!
Thanks for reading
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We originally got this from a man in Holland in 2018. It was his late mother's and he wanted it to go to a good home rather than to the tip. So we had it and when I later sent him some photos of it working and finished, he was thrilled.
This machine is in a glass case in our entrance now. It's one of my favourite things. I love the art deco bakelite hood.
There's a short video of it being used on Twitter >>here<< (https://twitter.com/manchestervacs/status/1136966046508822535) and on Instagram >>here<< (https://www.instagram.com/p/ByaFZZrnBIu/?utm_medium=copy_link).