Dyson & Sebo Vacuum Cleaner Repair & Advice Forums
Other Vacuum Cleaners & Site Suggestions => Hoover Vacuum Cleaners => Topic started by: beko1987 on December 30, 2016, 08:46:08 pm
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Hello everyone!I have alot of writeups to do, am a bit behind so here is one from the end of summer, the day after I got the Xantia in fact! A free Turbomaster, which was amazing as I've always wanted one.
The first shot is of it in the boot
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and the ratings plate, which dates it to June 1989
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It was a bit filthy
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But ran rather well, here is the first look/pre refurb video
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The very first thing I did was have the hose off for washing, which was a bit dirty
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but came up lovely after a trip through the washing machine. Then, a few weeks later, I bought the machine in from the cold, and set to work!
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The filth was quite something
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It's also very much like a Turbopower in many ways, which means the handle comes off with 2 screws at the top
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Like so
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The wiring is removed by teasing the plastic peg out
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and popping the switch out and unplugging it
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This allows the harness to be withdrawn
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The top cap of the handle pops off too
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It didn't have any small tools when I got it, however a swap with a Premiere Mini and Hoover Junior with youtuber Numatic Collector/Daniel Shanks netted me 3 used tools, and a spare working motor which may come in handy one day, so that was nice
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Off they came, and off came the bag door
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The air freshener sits behind this little panel here
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Or would if it had one fitted
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The slider scent control pulls out of the main bag door
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The incorrect H18 bag can be removed and binned finally!
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Nice little birds nest at the bottom of the housing, dc16 (the vac, not the american dude on here) took care of that!)
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At the back of the machine, inside the carry handle bit are 2 screws which release the wiring cover
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There is an inner plastic part too which won't remove without unplugging the bag full light
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Once unplugged it falls away easily
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and the bag full LED pops out
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The bag door release button is held in with a circlip around the plastic prong
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Once released it, the spring and the prong fall out
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Back to the filthy wiring now, and the suction sensor thing needs to be unplugged
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Wiring reference shot
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and it's free
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Once de-wired, the sensor pops out of the plastic housing
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and the plastic housing is nearly empty
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Apart from this sprung part, which is actually what clips the bag door closed, the button removed further up just actuates this part
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To remove the plug for the handle wiring, these two tabs need to be popped out
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and out it all comes
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Now this is different to a TP again, these 4 screws need to be removed to remove the plastic part which holds the bag fill tube
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Doing this also releases the mains cable wiring cover/carry handle at the back
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So whilst we are here I'll remove the mains cable and choc block
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then back inside the bag compartment the clip can be fully withdrawn, after removing the bag fill light suction sensor tube from it
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Nothing holds the bag fill tube in now, so out it comes
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It's in two parts on the TM, so I undid the tape and separated it
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All down the side of the bag compartment runs some conduit, which carries the spinal cord down the machine
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4 screws halfway up the back removes the tool caddy from the back of the machine
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and 2 screws on the side of the bag housing removes the hose holder
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Looking a bit barer now!
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We now need to work from the bottom up! Baseplate off
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This is the belt arrangement, very much like the Vax New Wave (which probably copied this tbh)
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The Activator lifts out and off the small V belt
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and splits down very much as usual for one of these
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Next, we remove the hood
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Then the height adjustment mechanism can come out, and all that fluff was jamming it up in the before video
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The plate prises out of the spring clip in the adjuster knob
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But that is not all, as on the other side the lens cover has to come off very VERY carefully as they are extinct as spare parts!
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This reveals the other part of the adjuster mechanism, which slides over the lens to 'light up' the segments. This was also jammed up with grit and hard to move
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This part here seems to seal off the motor from this part of the hood
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The bulb was quite dusty too, but worked fine still
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Getting there now. Time to remove the trunnion cover. 2 long and 2 short screws here
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Really must look into why IrfanView messes the odd resized image up, but below should show the Trunnion cover removed
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We need to seperate the two parts of the cleaner now, but the spinal cord needs removing and unplugging from the motor
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Once unplugged and out of the way, the two clamps unscrew and lift off
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The two parts will separate now, although this side will need a bit of manouvering as the plastic pivot is nested behind the spring of the brush control, but does come out with a twist and a gentle pull
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Once removed, the two pivot bushes pull off
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I opted to leave the lower cord hook alone, as they are very rare on a Turbopower 1, let alone a Turbomaster and are a sod to fit, I never get it right!
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Now we can strip down the brush control mechanism. 2 screws and remove the orange cover
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With that removed, the black cover and lilac pedal lift away also
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The lilac pedal operates a cam on the black part, which in turn moves the spring, so with the pedal in one position, the cam locks the spring in one position, kick the pedal forward, it rotates the cam another turn, releasing the lilac pedal and moving the spring back
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This long spring helps here
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And this is the spring that moves the belt! An absolute sod to keep in place without the cover, but with the lilac pedal locked in the 'Carpet' position, the spring is released. Locked to the 'hard floor' position, it pushes the spring onto the larger belt, which pushes it onto the non drive part of the 2 belt pulleys we shall look at later! Simple but clever
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It pulls out
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Onto the other side, and we have the motor clamp
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Well, did have. With that removed, the motor lifts out of it's dusty seals
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Yet more filth
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Now, sitting next to the motor clamp is a Turbomaster thing called (probably) a Suction Diverter Box. This is what moves the suction from tools to floor, and lifts out easily
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This ring sits inside the inlet/outlet part
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4 very short screws hold it together
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When you move the lever between the modes, it either blocks off the tools and lets the suction run for the brushroll area, or blocks off the brushroll area and lets the suction run to the tools!
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The release pedal lifts out of the chassis next
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and the Bumper lifts off
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Sat on top of the chassis is a metal clamp that holds the belt pulleys in place
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With that removed the pulley assembly can come out, bringing the belts with it
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Aha, a Turbopower 1 feature! The front wheels are held in with a spring clip
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Remove that, lift the wheels vertical and the keyed pivots pull out of the chassis. The stepper part of the height control lifts out too
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The rear wheels remove by popping the tabs at the back of the glamour caps from the back of the wheels and removing the circlips
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And the chassis is stripped. Onto the motor now, and the 2 rubber seals can be removed
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As can the bellows
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People have told me that the TM motors are different to TP ones, as TP ones are 440w, TM is 500w. I think their the same apart from a slight size increase, maybe not even that... Pop the spring clips off that hold the fancase on
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Hold a flatblade driver into the belt spindle slot, twist it or the fan anti clockwise whilst holding the fan and the fan comes off
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Mark wires now, for reference the red one connects to the coil by the bulb holder
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One thing I like to do on TP motors (and this is a rubbish example) is to score the 2 parts of the housing so it's easier to reassemble correctly
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The wiring from the bulb holder clips to the coil on the other side of the motor
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and it all pulls off
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Undo the 4 screws holding the motor together and it separates, the armature pulling out too
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It's a bit fluffy
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The top bearing, as per a TP sits under a sprung washer to take up any movement, which all pulls out
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I scraped the coil clean
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and removed the carbon brushes from the casing
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The carbon holders slide out too
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The fancase bearing pops out after removing the clip that holds it down. The video didn't pick it up too well but it may as well have been hexagonal, it was proper crap to spin by hand
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The armature bearing wasn't much better either, the puller soon made light work of it
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The cooling fan pulls off too
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It's a little bit dirty too, that wouldn't have been helping it run true and smooth
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Motor stripped, time to look at the 'clutch'. Circlip pliers time
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Behind that sits a spacer washer
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and another spacer washer which had to be prised out of it's smeggy hole
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The two pulleys pull off the shaft, separated by another spacer washer
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The driven pulley has a needle roller bearing inside it
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The spacer washers that sit either side of the idler pulley
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So that's how it works. The metal pulley carries the V belt from the brushroll, and the spring that's moved by the pedal pushes the belt on or off it. Belt on, brushroll turns. Belt off and onto the idler pulley, no brushroll turney. It's quite sensitive, tall old me pulls the machine up too high in use which moves the belt slightly and knocks the brushroll off...
I greased up the needle roller bearing
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and everything was stripped! I washed this little lot
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and gave it a brief run over with the machine polisher, although not fantastically as my pads really are falling apart, and I'm very low on polish... Still, it made it 80% better!
Reassembly started in reverse
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2 nice new motor bearings were procured, 608's
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and the fancase one pushed into the housing nicely
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Clip fitted
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Carbon holders fitted
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Cooling fan refitted to the armature, looking a bit cleaner
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and the armature bearing pushed on. Bit of wire wool to clean up the armature shaft and these push on nicely by hand, screwing the motor casing together and maybe a tiny tap with a hammer to center it up pushes it the rest of the way.
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Coil lowered onto the housing
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Armature fitted (check that the cooling fan is correctly fitted and doesnt foul on the housing), then fit the top of the housing (again, spin the armature, it should be smooth as silk and not bind)
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Very carefully prise the carbon holder caps up, they snap easily
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Fit the carbons and lower the caps back down
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Fit the spacer washers and fan, again check for smooth spinning
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Nice bead of silicone around the fancase (should have been neater but it was going off, so came out a bit crap)
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Fit the fancase top and clips, and clean up the ooze
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Clutch next
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Just re-assembled in reverse, with grease covering all contact points!
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Bellows back on the motor
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Onto the chassis now. Rear wheels on, drop of grease where applicable
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Fir the slider part of the height adjustment, another drop of grease
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and pop the front wheels on
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Fit the clutch and clamp it down
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Bumper fitted
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Release pedal and spring fitted
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Time for the suction box now, and this really could do with being sealed with silicone, but as you saw above, I need to have a nice new tube with a small directable hole, so another day...
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Assembled
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The lever moves so much better now it's clean and not binding on grit
Out comes the suction box again, and in goes the motor!
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Back in goes the suction box
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Clamped down
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Onto the belt spring now, and here it is fitted, but it moves about very easily and needs some swear words to keep it in place
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Fit the actuator pedal and spring to the black housing
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Then remember that the back of the machine needs to go in first...
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Remembering also to fit the two pivot points... :'(
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This shows (badly) how moving the machine upright moves the belt, the plastic pushes the spring to the side as the cleaner is raised, moving the spring. It also shows the wear on the release pedal, which is why the vac leans when upright. Possibly fixable by glueing a thin fillet of plastic to it, but how sturdy that would be long term, I don't know, so I left it alone
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Make double sure the spring hasn't popped out...
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I tried fitting the pedal assembly whole, but it kept moving the spring, so whip the pedal off, and just fit the housing. This holds the spring in place
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Then fit the long spring
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Then the lilac pedal. Check the operation, the pedal should 'lock' when pushed then unlock when pushed again and pop back.Fit the orange piece and 2 long screws
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Then swear lots, as you realize the spinal cord needs to go through, so have the lot off, and run the cable through the body... (good practice though)
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Done! (much easier the 3rd time). Fit the pivot clamps, with a drop of grease to ensure smooth operation
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The bellows went through the washing machine too and didn't come too clean, but too late now. Hold them in the slot on the housing and fit the trunnion cover
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Onto the hood now. First to go back in is the divider bit. The foam was starting to peel away, but was fine overall
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The hood cleaned up well, and shows the lilac slate off well, sadly the machine is quite faded externally
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Fit the slider to the lens with a drop of grease on the contact points
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The adjuster knob needs to be laid onto the hood next, and lined up with the slider plate as you fit the lens
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Done
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Next was light, and a few years ago, I was given an LED kit to fit turbopowers and turbomasters (and lots of other bits), so thought I would fit it to this!
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It has a big sticky pad on the back, but I found it slotted very nicely into here and held very securely
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the lead is long enough to plug in and unplug to get the hood off
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And with that, the hood can be screwed down.
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The hood has shine back in! Not quite as good as it could be, I'll re-visit it one day
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Activator next, and 2 more new bearings were procured
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and fitted
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That all back together, it was time to belt it up
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I've had this pack of belts for ruddy years! In the hope that one day, I would get a TurboMaster. This day had come, and I was very happy to be fitting them
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The old belts weren't too bad really, but they were changed anyway
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And what a complete bastard it was to fit them! very very fiddly
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But in the end mild violence won the day and the activator was fitted with fresh new belts
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Lovely
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The baseplate went back on
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And now we move back up the machine, with the bottom part fully done
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The wires and conduit were fitted up the bag housing
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The suction bleed valve tube clipped onto the bag fill tube and fitted
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Some nice new tape had the 2 parts of the bag fill tube fitted together again
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I fitted the fill tube, and the top holder part, and here you can see the back of it that supports the wiring, so I wired it all back up again
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and fitted the cover and top cord hook
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The bag door catch fits back onto the inner housing that goes under the top cover plate
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The suction vacuum valve is fitted and wired back up after a squirt with some contact cleaner
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The LED was fitted back into the cover plate, the cover palte popped over the inner plate, more wires pushed together and the bag door button reassembled...
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and it was fitted to the machine. A nice H4 bag was found, and a bag slide
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The air freshener housing and slider fitted to the bag door, and the bag door fitted to the machine
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The very clean hose was found and re-united with it's vacuum
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The cleaner tools refitted
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and the handle reassembled and fitted!
And the end result...
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A beautiful machine!
Bit of a lean on her though
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but the total system Turbopowers were always terrible for this, all the extra weight on the top doesn't help. I have 2 TP1 total systems in the loft with smashed trunnions that needs reconstructive surgery next year! Works OK if I give it a hand though
[attachimg=9]
But was all this work worth it? The proof is in the after video!
It's amazing now! All that did not work before now works a treat, it's issue was just filth! Might try and get a new activator for it sometime though.
But for now, thank's for reading, and happy new tomorrow!
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That was really interesting seeing how the belt system on this works. It's strangely reminiscent of the self propelled hoover windtunnels we got (and still get) over here.
Looks like it came out really well!