Dyson & Sebo Vacuum Cleaner Repair & Advice Forums
Dyson Models => First Generation "The Ball" Dysons. => Topic started by: Dyson Tech on September 11, 2015, 05:17:03 pm
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A few people have asked us for a tutorial on this and how to test the motor in the head before buying a motor.
So lets start by stripping the head down..........
Using a 2p coin (or a quarter if you are over the pond) give this screw a quarter turn.
[attachimg=1]
Remove the end cap and brushroll like so.
[attachimg=2]
On the soleplate, there are 8 T15 screws and one Philips screw to remove.
[attachimg=3]
Flip it over and remove the top cover.
[attachimg=4]
You can now see the motor.
Pop off the brushroll drive belt.
[attachimg=5]
So you now have this. The motor is made by Johnson, it is labelled DC771(2)XLLG and we sell these >>here<< (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC25-DC41-Brushroll-Motor-Johnson-DC771(2)XLLG).
[attachimg=6]
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DC motors are generally non returnable and are generally sold without a guarantee. The reason for this policy is the fact we are not present at the time of fitting and thus cannot assess the expertise of the fitter (why Dyson wont sell them to you). We expect if you are buying a motor or a PCB that you are capable of diagnosing the machine properly before you buy the part.
Lets take a look at testing the motor.
Disclaimer: Testing the motor as described below is NOT for amateurs. Electricity KILLS. Seek the advice of a qualified electrician if in ANY doubt about your own skills
[attachimg=1]
If you have a multimeter and know how to use it, you can check resistance across the motor terminals as you would with any motor. You can also check that the cleanerhead itself is getting an AC feed from the machine (which you should do before you even think about taking the cleanerhead apart, really). Many people buy replacement cleanerhead parts without even checking that, and then assume the parts they bought are faulty, and then are unhappy to be reminded that PCB's and motors are non-returnable. :-\
If you are unsure whether the PCB is faulty or not, one way to be absolutely sure is to plug the cleanerhead back onto the machine, recline the machine and switch it on.
Carefully probe the terminals while the machine is running.
[attachimg=2]
You are looking for a DC value of somewhere around 300-330v on a UK, European or Australian machine (US machines may differ, ask local advice on this if in the US or Canada). No feed from the PCB, but a feed from the machine tells you the PCB is faulty.
[attachimg=3]
If you have that feed from the PCB, and your motor isn't running, we can conclude the motor needs replacing. To get it out of the housing, lift the retaining arm up in the direction of the arrow just a little........
[attachimg=4]
Take note of where the spring sits and don't lose it.
The motor now pops out like so.
[attachimg=5]
Reassembly is a reverse of strip down. While we were doing these photos, we decided to make a short video taking one apart and putting it back together again. :thumbsup:
We stock all the parts you may need to fix your DC25. Here are direct links to our shop of what may be of interest to you if you are reading this.
- For the T15 screwdriver you need to do the job look >>here<< (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/Dyson-Torx-Star-Screwdriver-T15)
- For the brushroll motor look >>here<< (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC25-DC41-Brushroll-Motor-Johnson-DC771(2)XLLG)
- For the PCB look >>here<< (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC25-PCB-Assembly)
- If you need a whole new cleanerhead look >>here<< (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC25-Cleaner-Head-Assembly-915499-01)
- For a brushroll look >>here<< (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC25-Brush-Roll-Bar-917391-01)
- For a replacement end cap look >>here<< (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC25-Brushroll-End-Cap-916183-01)
- For a replacement perspex housing and cover look >>here<< (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC25-Brushroll-Perspex-Housing)
Comments and questions welcome. :tiphat:
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Thank you - so very helpful.
my brush motor has a burning smell - do you know if replacing the carbon brushes will fix that? Are the brushes even available separately?
thanks!
Eddie
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Thank you - so very helpful.
my brush motor has a burning smell - do you know if replacing the carbon brushes will fix that? Are the brushes even available separately?
thanks!
Eddie
You cannot reliably replace the brushes on these motors. They are designed with a shelf life; and not designed to be repaired. I am not aware that the brushes are available for anyone who wants to try.
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I tried to strip one down once, impossible without damaging it more.
New motor is the easiest and cheapest way, the comm on the one with worn brushes will be damaged now. Its done its 60 hours in life
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I tried to strip one down once, impossible without damaging it more.
New motor is the easiest and cheapest way, the comm on the one with worn brushes will be damaged now. Its done its 60 hours in life
I've been hearing that hours life thing with drill motors etc, if they use that in vacuums it's horrible! It takes about half an hour to vac my house properly lol
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I followed the advice in this tutorial. I had 240V ac power from the machine and zero v dc at the motor terminals with the main motor running and the handle reclined. I deduced it was a faulty PCB board and bought one. That made no difference and after some information exchanged with Manchester Vacs they sent me a second one thinking the first was faulty. However after fitting the second the fault still persists. What resistance should there be across the motor terminals? I have 50 ohms. If I switch off power for some time the brush bar motor will run for about two seconds before cutting out and will not start again until left for some time again. If the PCB is not the fault then presumably it's the motor. Any help appreciated.
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It's usually the motor. If it's not one then it's the other. If you've got voltage from the pins from the cleaner, and you've tried 2 pcb's then it's the motor!
Usually I don't even bother fault finding, and change the motor. Never been wrong yet (I change and charge for the pcb too mind, but I doubt it's ever really that)
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Thanks for the quick reply. Since I posted I decided to go back over my checks again and now I find I don't have the 240v I had previously at the pins! The loom resistance on both wires is zero ohms so does that now point to the reset switch? Is it a simple on/off switch? I've got it out and the resistance readings across the terminals seem a bit erratic.
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I'm not sure on the reset switch, it feels momentary but I've never looked closely. You could bridge the connectors and try? There's also a switch down the bottom, (machine facing you) on the left hand side is a cover with 3 screws. Undo those and pull it off, that is the switch that is activated when you recline the machines. Again, bridge to rule it out.
Also check the white and red wire that runs off through the yolk. These break very frequently... This is on my mind now you said you checked again and have no power...
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It is a moment switch. But as Beko said check the wiring loom and the reset switch.
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Shorted out the reset switch and brush roll running perfectly. Will order a replacement. Thanks for all the help. What is a moment switch?
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Momentary switch. It only makes contact when pressed. Rather than a latching switch like the on/off button, that latches in and stays on, then latches on then stays off.
If the power switch becomes a momentary switch its broken!
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Only on while pressed, as you recline the machine a bar presses the switch, as you stand it up the switch is released.