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« Last post by JonNL on Today at 02:50:09 pm »
Hi, I own a 20 year old Sebo x4 automatic that has performed brilliantly over the years but has recently started having problems. The vacuum switches on normally and can still be used. However, the automatic adjustment level is permanently stuck in the down position even when the vacuum is upright and no lights are shown. Also, when I block the airflow, the machine doesn't automatically cut out and, again, no warning lights are shown. The brush warning light also appears not to be functioning. I'm wondering if this could be a main PCB failure and a simple replacement would cure these issues? It would be a shame to have to replace a machine that otherwise works so well. Thanks in advance for any advice!
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« Last post by MVacs on Today at 11:08:35 am »
Tell me the outer diameter of your hose and I'll check.
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« Last post by mmjojomm on Yesterday at 03:52:07 pm »
Hi, thank you, but that was my question really, if someone know if the hoses are of the same diameter?
thanks
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« Last post by MVacs on Yesterday at 03:22:24 pm »
It seems NMB have several factories, and as you can imagine, it is cheaper to manufacture in Singapore or Indonesia, so ones stamped England (which actually would be our preference), are thin on the ground. I haven't seen any for several years. Great you are fixed up and all went well. 
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« Last post by JamieLincs on Yesterday at 02:59:11 pm »
Thank you @MVacs - I've only just seen your comment today, but the other week I ordered replacement bearings and brushes, installed them, and I'm pleased to report, this seems to have fixed the problem.
Your engineer was bang on the money, the top bearing was completely shot.
Interestingly the two bearings installed new from the factory were different - the bottom one is stamped "England NMB 608Z" and the top one (near the brushes) "Indonesia NSK 608Z". The "England" one seems to be OK, but I replaced it anyway (it's very old). If I recall, the new ones from yourselves said "Singapore".
The old brushes were over half way gone, so worthwhile replacing those at this point too.
This is the first repair it's required in around 15 years of service, so hopefully good until at least 2040 now!
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« Last post by MVacs on Yesterday at 02:53:18 pm »
If the hose diameter is the same and you feel confident to refit the ends, I don't see why not.
DC18 hoses are thin on the ground now, indeed.
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« Last post by MVacs on May 20, 2024, 12:47:15 pm »
Beko did a strip down on one of those >here<. I'd expect to see damage on the PCB if that is duff. The motor seems most likely from your OP.
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« Last post by macman on May 18, 2024, 10:06:10 pm »
You are quite correct: I was wrong about the motor. When I stripped the gearbox, I realised that the drive shaft metal cog is bevelled: the DC25 is straight. The actual motor itself is the same model number, which is why I thought they could be swapped.
I have continuity tested the yoke loom and that is OK. Next job is to swap the motor you just sent me and see if that cures it.
If not, it must be the PCB or microswitch: the former has no signs of damage though.
But I still do not understand how the continuity can be reversed on the microswitch loop, this makes no sense.
And I can't see how to access the microswitch housing: does the yoke have to come off first?
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« Last post by MVacs on May 18, 2024, 08:55:02 pm »
I found that the motor is the same as that in the DC25 (Johnson DC771(2). Assuming the gearbox can be swapped over directly, I'm going to rebuild it with a used DC25 motor to see if that solves it.
I seem to recall the cog differs. IIRC the DC25 motor won't run a DC15. What you describe does sound like a duff motor. But that loom is notorious too. Although, we had one this week where the motor was playing up and the gearbox was clogged up with crap. A strip down and clean solved it.
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« Last post by macman on May 17, 2024, 01:11:14 pm »
I now think that the issue with this machine may be the recline microswitch, not the brushroll motor.
I have tested the continuity on the microswitch loop, and, weirdly, it seems to be the wrong way around! With the wheels up, there is no continuity. With the wheels down, there is continuity. Surely this should be the other way around?
I'm also unclear about which other components need to be removed to access the microswitch: does the whole yoke have to come off first? I have studied Beko's stripdown guide, but not quite clear which sequence to follow.
Can anyone help please? This one is really baffling me.
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