Dyson & Sebo Vacuum Cleaner Repair & Advice Forums
Dyson Models => Second Generation "The Ball" Dysons. => Topic started by: beko1987 on August 25, 2018, 07:34:18 pm
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A friend obtained me this from an abandoned house (he's a surveyor) and bought it round. A deal was struck that once it was refurbished and sold, we would get a massive fatty fatty fat fat curry in and some beers. So, let's see what we have:
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I'm a man with a strong stomach, but even this made me feel :sick0012:
So let's fix that!
[attachimg=1]
First things first, the hose and filters went in the washing machine, the hose needing 3 goes (including one 90 degree wash with the towels) to get it clean! TBH a new hose would have cost less than the water and electric, but meh, man maths!
Wand off, and the tool latch button pops off. This usually gets gummed up with fluff and general crap
[attachimg=2]
The button has a little spring underneath it
[attachimg=3]
If you loose this, a cut down biro spring works fine! Next, remove the top part of the chassis/the top handle by pushing this button in and pulling it up
[attachimg=4]
The top flap and handle cover is removed by popping this little tab out under here
[attachimg=5]
And lifting the top cover off. The flap can then be popped out from the cover itself
[attachimg=6]
Time to move down! Remove the bin
[attachimg=7]
Aha, it's credentials!
[attachimg=8]
I always thought ERP was the first EU rules change for motor wattage, hence why this is 700w and not 1300w, and the re-designed brushroll housing to make up for the lack of watts, however Tayyab informed me that this is not always the case (I have a DC54 Erp with a 1300w motor...) Hopefully he can come along and clarify it for us!
Up behind the switch, we have 2 screws and 2 tabs.
[attachimg=9]
Remove and release all of those and the switch housing comes off.
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[attachimg=1]
The power button with its spring lifts out, as does the brushroll on/off switch
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This sprung part for the bin does not easily come off, nor does it need to
[attachimg=3]
This is the wiring and switches
[attachimg=4]
all of it needs to be unplugged and removed, leaving just the spinal wire, as the mains cable comes off at this stage
[attachimg=5]
Next, remove the brushroll housing from the main cleaner
[attachimg=6]
Remove the filter side ball shell, and say hello to my little slug friend...
[attachimg=7]
Don't do this usually, but for the purposes of this thread, I removed the blue cap from the spinny part
[attachimg=8]
On the inside of the shell, a clear plastic cap holds the thread to the inside
[attachimg=9]
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The other parts push out from the inside
[attachimg=1]
This bearing sits inside the whole shebang, although did not come out easily and I didnt want to break the shell, so left it in. Probably wont be many years before greasing this will be as common as greasing DC04 brushroll bearings, or the main ball bearing on a DC25
[attachimg=2]
Onto the other ball shell. This glamour cap twists 1/4 turn to release, a pair of thin nosed pliers will do it, or a firm whack with a small screwdriver if you don't mind dinking the plastic
[attachimg=3]
With a large flatblade screwdriver, unscrew the black threaded nut
[attachimg=4]
And on this side, the clear washer holds everything in from the inside
[attachimg=5]
The black nut then pushes out of the bearing
[attachimg=6]
Back to normal things that normal* people would be doing, unscrew the 2 screws underneath the top outer shell cover
[attachimg=7]
Then recline the machine fully flat and push the cover down and pull it off as you go, it rides in 2 channels
[attachimg=8]
As you can see, it rides smoothly...
[attachimg=9]
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The HORRIBLE yolk loom can come off now, pop out the retaining clip that carries the wire up and down as the machine reclines and stands up, the clip pulls off and splits in 2
[attachimg=1]
And is held at the top by this rubber bung which pushes inwards with a screwdriver
[attachimg=2]
With the wiring released, the socket for the powerhead can be lifted out of where it lives
[attachimg=3]
Next, flip the machine over so the exhaust side is visible, and remove the 3 screws that hold it on
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
On the other side, unscrew the white securing shell
[attachimg=6]
And lift it off
[attachimg=7]
Over to the other side again, and with the rear wheels in the correct position, 3 screws will be visible. Have those out
[attachimg=8]
With that off, the yolk assembly can be lifted off, although the internal hose will hold onto it yet
[attachimg=9]
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Simply pop the locking tab out to release the hose. Next, the clear cog that moves the rear wheels in time with the reclining action can be unscrewed
[attachimg=1]
Then the plastic tab that locks into the brushroll housing and stops the machine falling sideways when upright pops out, along with its spring
[attachimg=2]
Under the yolk assembly, usually hidden by the ball shells are 2 metal wheels that aid the shells to always rotate smoothly, these pop out
[attachimg=3]
The thread for the post motor filter shell has 2 washers, the same as the other side, but to stop these falling off when the ball shell is removed, they are held in with a plastic stopper, which unscrews
[attachimg=4]
And with that, the yolk assembly is stripped! The white part to the left seems pressed on, and will be damaged if removed, so I leave it alone.
[attachimg=5]
We can move back to the main machine
[attachimg=6]
And remove the screws that hold the PCB cover on
[attachimg=7]
The PCB sits in the exhaust air flow, so it was a little bit surprising to see all the fluff built up around it!
[attachimg=8]
We can start unplugging things now, starting with the yolk loom itself
[attachimg=9]
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Just switched to a thinkpad with a thinklight as it's getting dark and I cant be bothered to get up and put the light on!
Anyway, whilst we hold the yolk socket in our hands, we can take note of the wiring orientation
[attachimg=1]
Open the flap that locks the terminals into place
[attachimg=2]
And remove the wires! Next to be unplugged are the wires leading to the switch that shuts the brushroll off when the machine is upright
[attachimg=3]
Then remove the other wires which provide the power, and the wires that run to the motor! The PCB should unscrew, but I got a quarter of a turn in and the threaded standoff snapped right off... We'll glue that on later!
[attachimg=4]
Because next, we need to remove the main suction channel that goes from the motor. There are screws here
[attachimg=5]
and one this side
[attachimg=6]
and 2 here
[attachimg=7]
Then the whole assembly lifts off!
[attachimg=8]
Signs of water where it shouldn't be in the past...
[attachimg=9]
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The bin seal is removed from the suction inlet and outlet
[attachimg=1]
The release valve can be removed now by rotating the cap slightly and pulling it off, and removing all the bits inside
[attachimg=2]
On the motor housing, we can see the cam that activates the brushroll cutoff switch
[attachimg=3]
It and its spring lifts off
[attachimg=4]
Then the switch itself can be removed
[attachimg=5]
Now we can start on the rear wheels. This spring is what helps the wheels flip up and down as needed
[attachimg=6]
Remove the screw with the big washer that fixes it to the motor housing, then the wheels can be removed from the chassis
[attachimg=7]
The flap to enable the user to check the tiny air paths for blockages pops off
[attachimg=8]
Then the screw partially hidden by it can be removed
[attachimg=9]
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Tucked under the spinal wire on the side is another screw
[attachimg=1]
and one last screw sits at the back underneath the lower cord hook, which just lifts out to reveal. Then the spine can come off the lower chassis
[attachimg=2]
Down to the motor!
[attachimg=3]
The changeover valve needs to come out next, and it starts with this little bracket that holds the hose in place on one end
[attachimg=4]
Then remove the screw that sits the other side
[attachimg=5]
Then, remove this spring from the machine, or undo the 2 screws holding the plate the spring clips to and leave the plastic attached
[attachimg=6]
Then pull the securing cage out of the machine
[attachimg=7]
The hose and top pivot can be withdrawn now
[attachimg=8]
the other end of the internal hose lifts out of its locating slot
[attachimg=9]
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Now we can remove the 2 screws and release the 2 clips that hold the motor cover in place
[attachimg=1]
To remove the motor, first remove the carbon brush that you can see, take this screw out
[attachimg=2]
Then pull the carbon brush assembly off. The motor will then twist enough to come out of the housing, pull the wires through the housing as you go
[attachimg=3]
This black box of tricks contains the locking mechanism for the rear wheels, it's this you hear making the crack sound as it lets go when you push the machine down to flip the rear wheels up!
[attachimg=4]
The cover comes off
[attachimg=5]
Then the spring and inner part lift out. This white cam is all thats left!
[attachimg=6]
And the motor housing is stripped! Talking of the motor, it bloody stunk, the fan was full of all sorts of crap, so I knocked the case off
[attachimg=7]
And stripped the top end down, including the white bit and washed them!
[attachimg=8]
Now we can move onto the brushroll housing!
[attachimg=9]
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Which is utterly disgusting
[attachimg=1]
So we open the baseplate and undo the screws holding it onto the main housing
[attachimg=2]
And it separates from the brushroll housing
[attachimg=3]
TBH this bit is, apart from the motor the ONLY difference between a Mk1 and a Mk2 I think, the ERP bit of the brushroll housing. The red slider knob lifts off
[attachimg=4]
Then the blue sealing strip lifts out of it's 3 securing latches
[attachimg=5]
This black bar is what moves the blue squegee up and down as the red slider is slid, it does come out, although is a bit fiddly. Worth it though so you can flush all the grit out that causes this mechanism to jam up
[attachimg=6]
The stupid EU rules bodge velour strips are looking pretty knackered
[attachimg=7]
And the floating head isn't floating very well due to all the crap built up inside the rubber part (as usual)
[attachimg=8]
I scraped it all out, and moved onto unscrewing the brushroll
[attachimg=9]
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Delightful
[attachimg=1]
The centre screw comes out, and this allows the end caps to be removed from the brushrolls
[attachimg=2]
Which were nice and clean... Next the brushroll cogs need to be removed to allow a step later to happen more smoothly
[attachimg=3]
More red hair! This stuff is everywhere
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[attachimg=5]
Removing the screws from inside the housing, the suction channel lifts out, once you break it free from the crust that sticks it down
[attachimg=6]
Now, flip it over and undo all the screws that hold the motor cover on
[attachimg=7]
And lift out the motor! (the brushroll cogs need to be removed already to do this!)
[attachimg=8]
I wonder what the failure rate of these will be as they get older and are run in this state...
Next the wiring loom lifts out of the clear head
[attachimg=9]
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The plug simply pops out of the housing
[attachimg=1]
Which leaves the brushroll housing chassis looking vomit-tastic, and ready to be lobbed in a heavy G101 solution to soak for a few hours!
[attachimg=2]
But not after sorting more of the blasted hair out, this rear wheel was jammed ruddy solid
[attachimg=3]
Picking at it did nothing
[attachimg=4]
So with a small centre punch and a hammer I knocked the pin through and cleared it properly
[attachimg=5]
The motor comes off the securing part
[attachimg=6]
I removed the lid from the belt guard
[attachimg=7]
separated the 2 parts
[attachimg=8]
Which uncovered yet more bloody red hair jamming the centre wheel!
[attachimg=9]
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Much nicer!
[attachimg=1]
I removed the brushroll drive cog from the centre housing
[attachimg=2]
And removed the bit that holds the belt guard assembly onto the motor from the motor itself
[attachimg=3]
Onto the cyclone now, and we all know this isn't going to be pretty don't we...
[attachimg=4]
It is empty, that's just a tidemark... Flap open...
[attachimg=5]
I'd stopped feeling :sick0012: by this stage and was mostly :biglaugh: :biglaugh:. Probably the fumes...
Flap off and seals removed
[attachimg=6]
I had to scrape most of this off for my own sanity and plumbing
[attachimg=7]
Bin flap release rod off
[attachimg=8]
And onto the cyclone itself
[attachimg=9]
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Top handle off
[attachimg=1]
Red lever and filter cap popped off
[attachimg=2]
Top bin seal off
[attachimg=3]
Shroud and bottom cones popped off
[attachimg=4]
Shroud removed from the inner assembly
[attachimg=5]
It was stuck well! I'd stopped thinking if this was poo or sick by now, it smelt like both!
[attachimg=6]
Infact I was actually pleased to see our old friend plaster dust! Always know where you stand with safe boring old plaster dust!
[attachimg=7]
Cyclone cone tip seal now, it's under here somewhere...
[attachimg=8]
Here it comes
[attachimg=9]
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And once off, I could get to the screws holding the top part together, so apart it fell!
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
And that was that! Quite alot of this had a night and day soaking in G101, agitated every now and again when I walked past and saw it had settled, then it was all washed, some bits washed again, dried, polished and laid out ready for reassembly!
Which you will see another day, when we put this machine back together!
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And as usual, we have the laid out exploded diagram shots!
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
And with the aid of the very laptop I'm using now to write this, my Thinkpad X60 Tablet, we can nail this back together!
Cyclone first
[attachimg=3]
The cyclone top cover goes on with the tab lined up with the bin release rod housing
[attachimg=4]
All looking a bit cleaner under here
[attachimg=5]
Then the top and middle part can be bought together
[attachimg=6]
Then the middle seal goes on
[attachimg=7]
The inside of the middle cyclone didnt come up spotless, but no one is ever going to see this again, so meh
[attachimg=8]
The middle part of the release rod goes on next, the spring needs to sit like so
[attachimg=9]
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It sits here
[attachimg=1]
When the shroud/middle part is bought up, the spring needs to sit like so
[attachimg=2]
The spring for the bin latch is also fun, but it sits on one side nicely, then the spring can be held shut with a screwdriver as the 2 halves are clipped together, then released
[attachimg=3]
The shroud can be slid on
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
Top bin seal fitted
[attachimg=6]
The bottom seal is popped on
[attachimg=7]
Top gubbins now
[attachimg=8]
The filter cap seal goes on
[attachimg=9]
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Learn foreign with Dyson!
[attachimg=1]
The bin release button pushes down and snaps into place
[attachimg=2]
Then the top handle clips onto the cyclone top
[attachimg=3]
Tadah
[attachimg=4]
Pop the bin release rod onto the bin
[attachimg=5]
Seals onto the bottom flap
[attachimg=6]
Even clean, the bin is pretty trashed but it looks better now
[attachimg=7]
Onto the brushroll motor
[attachimg=8]
The middle brushroll bearing was greased
[attachimg=9]
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[attachimg=1]
Middle tensioner fitted
[attachimg=2]
Then it can be fitted to the motor, and the belt fitted to both halves
[attachimg=3]
Middle wheel axle gets a little drop of grease
[attachimg=4]
And the wheel fitted
[attachimg=5]
Cover on
[attachimg=6]
The motor is fitted to its support part
[attachimg=7]
Brushroll cogs go on
[attachimg=8]
And it can all go into the much cleaner main housing!
[attachimg=9]
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The now moving freely wheels were fitted
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
Then it was time for the motor wiring to attach to the plastic housing to clip it onto the brushroll chassis
[attachimg=3]
The wire loops round underneath as shown
[attachimg=4]
The motor can be sat on its tray and dropped on, then the wires run and plugged in
[attachimg=5]
The little cover that covers the wires sits on the bottom
[attachimg=6]
Then the top motor cover goes on and screws everything together
[attachimg=7]
Brushroll bearings/end caps now
[attachimg=8]
You can service these by removing the circlip that holds the bearing in place.
[attachimg=9]
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Then the ball bearing itself pushes out, and you can remove the plastic cover that goes over the race....Crikey
[attachimg=1]
You want to pick out as much hair as you can and spoon fresh grease in. Roll the bearing around in your fingers for a bit then replace the covers and spin it some more, then wipe off any excess, and refit the bearing to the holder
[attachimg=2]
Time to fit the ERP bit onto the brushroll
[attachimg=3]
It needs to sit in here, and be clipped around 3 plastic pegs, and sit behind 2 plastic tabs, it's a bit fiddly
[attachimg=4]
But you'll get there eventually
[attachimg=5]
Now attach the blue front squeegee to the black bar. Again, very fiddly and youll end up taking the black bar out in places to clip the blue strip to it
[attachimg=6]
But eventually this too will fit, and smooth operation will be operated!
[attachimg=7]
Once done, you can fit the front and baseplate back onto the housing, fit the brushrolls, do up the baseplate and the brushroll housing is done!
[attachimg=8]
2 down
[attachimg=9]
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The exploded diagram is a bit smaller now
[attachimg=1]
Motor stuff first
[attachimg=2]
Which was much cleaner
[attachimg=3]
The washed fan went on
[attachimg=4]
Then the washed fancase
[attachimg=5]
Wheel carriage lock refitted
[attachimg=6]
And it's cover
[attachimg=7]
The white little cam went on
[attachimg=8]
Motor top rubber on
[attachimg=9]
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With a cock and refit of the carbon brush, the motor can go back into its housing
[attachimg=1]
The rubber inner clips onto the fancase cover
[attachimg=2]
Then the cover screws onto the motor housing
[attachimg=3]
Time to start piecing the changeover valve together, stick a small smear of grease on all the pivoting parts as you go
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
Annoyingly, I snapped off the tiny bit of plastic the main changeover spring attaches to, a small screw did the job at replacing it!
[attachimg=6]
Once all back together, check the operation by moving the main black plastic part up and down to flip the hose
[attachimg=7]
And then fit the hose retaining bracket
[attachimg=8]
Time to join the 2 halves now
[attachimg=9]
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Start by running the spine wires from the top
[attachimg=1]
Then as you get to the bottom, half screw the motor housing on, run the wires across the join
[attachimg=2]
Then once run correctly (match up the bends and kinks in the cable), do up the screws and fit the blockage port cap
[attachimg=3]
Brushroll switch and wiring goes on next
[attachimg=4]
Releif valve goes into where it belongs
[attachimg=5]
Then the main suction ducting can be fitted to the motor housing, being sure that everything is clipped together well before screwing it up, or yourll get a big air leak
[attachimg=6]
We'll pop this seal back on here
[attachimg=7]
Then fit the PCB (well, glue it in in our case) and fit all the wires as shown
[attachimg=8]
Then the PCB cover can go on
[attachimg=9]
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Time to clip the internal hose into the bottom chassis now
[attachimg=1]
Then pop the wheels and the bottom assembly onto the motour housing unit
[attachimg=2]
The dreaded yolk loom now, I hate this part! Start by finding the original bends in the wires, and feeding them onto the black rear plastic part like so
[attachimg=3]
Then go to pick up the grey outer part, and watch the wires fall off. Mutter a rude word and fit them back again, then clip the grey cover over the top
[attachimg=4]
Swear some more as the grey cover falls off several more times as you push the black holding part into the chassis, then clip the corner bit into the space in the top cover. Once it's in, it's still liable to move, so be careful!
[attachimg=5]
Feed the wires down towards the suction hole
[attachimg=6]
Fit the plug to the outer housing observing the orientation
[attachimg=7]
Then with 1 hand holding the wires into their channel, push the housing into it's place below
[attachimg=8]
Pop the spring onto the yolk locking peg
[attachimg=9]
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Then clip the locking peg into place, maybe one last naughty word as the wiring dislodges itself again...
[attachimg=1]
Time to fit the clear cog. Now you may ask why we didnt do this earlier, and that's because it is a right sod to line the teeth up to fit the housing. The easier way to do it is:
[attachimg=2]
Peel back the housing slightly from the motor housing, slip the cog under and line the teeth up that way, then fit the screw
[attachimg=3]
With the assembly in 'reclined' mode as shown (wheels flipped up), the arm of the clear cog will sit as shown above
Now we can fit the top sliding cover
[attachimg=4]
As you can see, the socket will fall out again, one last time pop it into place, then once the cover is on it'll never move again, fit the screws at the bottom quickly, then fit the rest at leisure
[attachimg=5]
Pop the 2 ball shell wheels in
[attachimg=6]
Fit the 2 washers and retaining 'clip' on the filter side of the housing
[attachimg=7]
Then fit the 3 screws (you could do this before the above step tbh) that hold this side of the assembly together
[attachimg=8]
Fit the cover
[attachimg=9]
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On the other side, fit the white top part of that pivot and screw it down. I forgot to take any pictures of that part, so use your imagination!
If you dismantled the bearings on the ball shells (which you don't really need to do), now it's time to reassemble them
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Then fit the non filter side
[attachimg=4]
Then, on the filter side, fit the post motor filter. I put this one through the washing machine and it came out very well indeed
[attachimg=5]
Then assemble the shell
[attachimg=6]
[attachimg=7]
TBH the reason I don't recommend doing this is this blue part took AGES and made me >:( to refit...
[attachimg=8]
But eventually, it clicked in, and the fake ball (as their really 2 big wheels) was assembled again
[attachimg=9]
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Time to move right on up and pop the switches back in
[attachimg=1]
And the switch buttons
[attachimg=2]
Once youve fitted the switch buttons to the machine, check they push and click properly, they can jam if everything is not lined up 100%
[attachimg=3]
Next, lob the top handle stuff back together
[attachimg=4]
Now it's starting to look like a vacuum cleaner again!
[attachimg=5]
I got this a little gift
[attachimg=6]
I can't remember who sent it now, I would have thanked them at the time but it contained some tools!
[attachimg=7]
Which fill a hole nicely
[attachimg=8]
We can wind the cable up then, and she is done!
[attachimg=9]
But how did it come out? Well...
Very well indeed!
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Looks brill, I'd buy that!
You sure you forgot who sent you the tools? Haha
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I think it was you actually! You've just jogged my memory, plus your the only person I know who sticks the whole sheet on the box rather than just cutting the label part out!
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do you find vacuuming the side paper filter is enough I put new or pressure wash mine just wondered if I am working to hard on them lol ,did one about 4 years ago when new I have forgot tbh till I saw this I should do this to remind me ,I have about 4 that brushbar don't turn to do ,or joblot maybe the answer
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No, TBH, vacuuming it off doesn't do much I find as all the fluff packs into the edges... I either wash them if their not too stained or just fit new, I suppose due to the age of them, the ones I've had have never been too stained yet. I did once spend time picking all the fluff out of the edges and then washed it, which worked OK but was borderline as to whether it was worth it or not!
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Hi, great Stripdown.
My Dyson DC40 suffering the same problem with plaster dust (Thanks builder!). All the way through the entire system and now on the motor by the sound of it as its making a loud squealing when on, still sucks but just much noisier all of a sudden. Would taking it apart and cleaning it out get rid of the noise, or am I gonna need to put a new motor in do you think? Apparently it has dried out bearings in the motor.
Thanks
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The easiest way to check is to remove the post motor filter and cyclone and turn it on, has the noise gone?
The noise is usually caused by the rubber seals not being quite as sealing as they should be, so the air escapes! Removing the suction will soon tell you if it's the motor or not
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Yep noise is still there after they're both out. Dyson quoted me £140 to fix it as plaster dust isn't allowed. New motor then or is it possible to re-lubricate the current motor?
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Ah, then motor it is!
It is possible to drip some oil onto the bearings and hope that cures it:
The top bearing is easy as that's at the top of the motor, simply stand the motor on the fancase and stick a good few drips of 3-in-1 oil on and let it soak in.
The fancase bearing isn't as easy, and involves removing the fancase, undoing the fan nut, removing the nut, washer, fan, washer and spacer ring, then unscrewing the fancase back cover, then you can get at the fancase bearing in the same way. Or see if Mvacs have a good, used motor, TBH a brand new motor probably doesn't cost £140....
You also need to feel confident to get the motor out and stripped apart exactly as I did above, as you'll need it at that state to get to the bearings. I don't recommend splitting the motor fully and replacing the bearings as their cheap motors, with mainly press-fitted components and you'd need a bearing puller and bearings, and a way to tap the new bearings on which is always a pain!
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Ah, then motor it is!
It is possible to drip some oil onto the bearings and hope that cures it:
The top bearing is easy as that's at the top of the motor, simply stand the motor on the fancase and stick a good few drips of 3-in-1 oil on and let it soak in.
The fancase bearing isn't as easy, and involves removing the fancase, undoing the fan nut, removing the nut, washer, fan, washer and spacer ring, then unscrewing the fancase back cover, then you can get at the fancase bearing in the same way. Or see if Mvacs have a good, used motor, TBH a brand new motor probably doesn't cost £140....
You also need to feel confident to get the motor out and stripped apart exactly as I did above, as you'll need it at that state to get to the bearings. I don't recommend splitting the motor fully and replacing the bearings as their cheap motors, with mainly press-fitted components and you'd need a bearing puller and bearings, and a way to tap the new bearings on which is always a pain!
Thanks for your help! And the guide has been great to help me. Managed to put a new motor in and clean the plaster dust out of every single nook and cranny! Now it’s working a dream again. Thanks again for your help.
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Ah, then motor it is!
It is possible to drip some oil onto the bearings and hope that cures it:
The top bearing is easy as that's at the top of the motor, simply stand the motor on the fancase and stick a good few drips of 3-in-1 oil on and let it soak in.
The fancase bearing isn't as easy, and involves removing the fancase, undoing the fan nut, removing the nut, washer, fan, washer and spacer ring, then unscrewing the fancase back cover, then you can get at the fancase bearing in the same way. Or see if Mvacs have a good, used motor, TBH a brand new motor probably doesn't cost £140....
You also need to feel confident to get the motor out and stripped apart exactly as I did above, as you'll need it at that state to get to the bearings. I don't recommend splitting the motor fully and replacing the bearings as their cheap motors, with mainly press-fitted components and you'd need a bearing puller and bearings, and a way to tap the new bearings on which is always a pain!
Thanks for your help! And the guide has been great to help me. Managed to put a new motor in and clean the plaster dust out of every single nook and cranny! Now it’s working a dream again. Thanks again for your help.
Fantastic, that's great to hear! Now you can spend £140 on something else, man-maths at its finest! (or female-maths, I've no idea what your gender is!)
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Hi Becko,
Is it a fairly simple job to change the 'change over valve hose' on a DC40?
Mine had an unfortunate accident with a popsickle stick and now keeps collapsing. I'm located in Denmark and spare parts for Dyson's are are just not available, so the shop that repaired it just built up/reinforced the hose, which just blocked up instantly. If I order the part from the UK could I change it, or is it a major strip down? In which case I just go back to the reapir shop with the new part.
Thanks in advance for your help.
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It's not too tricky tbh. You'll have to remove both of the 'balls'/shells. Then youll see the changeover valve.
Now, which hose? If it's the small tiny one that sits right under the main hose, and flicks between the two suction paths, that's a few TINY screws and it lifts out...
If it's the other hose that runs under the machine to the brushroll housing, that's a little trickier as you need to remove a fair few parts (from my stripdown thread, basically you need to get to the point you have the Yolk off in your hand, which is a bit of work but not horrific
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So basically MK2 is 700w model, am I right? Or is it a model with the slider on the cleaner head?
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Simply pop the locking tab out to release the hose. Next, the clear cog that moves the rear wheels in time with the reclining action can be unscrewed
(Attachment Link)
Then the plastic tab that locks into the brushroll housing and stops the machine falling sideways when upright pops out, along with its spring
(Attachment Link)
Under the yolk assembly, usually hidden by the ball shells are 2 metal wheels that aid the shells to always rotate smoothly, these pop out
(Attachment Link)
The thread for the post motor filter shell has 2 washers, the same as the other side, but to stop these falling off when the ball shell is removed, they are held in with a plastic stopper, which unscrews
(Attachment Link)
And with that, the yolk assembly is stripped! The white part to the left seems pressed on, and will be damaged if removed, so I leave it alone.
(Attachment Link)
We can move back to the main machine
(Attachment Link)
And remove the screws that hold the PCB cover on
(Attachment Link)
The PCB sits in the exhaust air flow, so it was a little bit surprising to see all the fluff built up around it!
(Attachment Link)
We can start unplugging things now, starting with the yolk loom itself
(Attachment Link)
Please can someone help me find the plastic tab that locks into the brushroll housing and stops the machine falling sideways when upright. Mine has snapped and i need a replacement.
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https://shop.manchestervacs.co.uk/dyson-upright-vacuum-cleaner-spares/dc40-spare-parts/dc40-swivel-lock-arm-922559-01
Check its the same as the DC40 non erp i think is a different shape
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Thank you for this Sam you don’t know how many times this has saved me when I’ve got stuck and wanted to throw the bloody thing out of a window.
After doing a few dc40 ERP machines now I’ve noticed that they seem to have a lot more suction than the new generation light ball and ball animal 2 machines that replaced them.
I have owned a ball animal 2 machine from new and although I think it’s carpet cleaning ability is second to none (for a Dyson) the dc40 ERP still vastly trump them and the light ball on suction.
Does anyone know why from what I’ve seen the dc40 use the trusty old Panasonic motor that’s supposedly 850w whilst the new generation ball machines use Dysons own YDK motor which I think is rated to 700w.
Has anyone had anything to do with these new machines eg motor removal or anything such as it seems to look more like a dc24 motor.
Sorry for the rant but if the new generation machines had the same motor I think they would be perfect in fact one day I might try and retrofit one into it.