1
« Last post by invisible on April 16, 2024, 09:49:42 pm »
check the simple stuff first.
As always... thanks.
2
« Last post by macman on April 16, 2024, 08:42:36 pm »
If you have done none of those things, then you have no idea if the airpath is clear or not.
Don't think the thermal fuse is the problem here,:check the simple stuff first.
3
« Last post by invisible on April 16, 2024, 08:01:27 pm »
Guess I have to do all this...
If it does not help, would you recommend to replace thermal fuze? Should fuse replacment lead to reduced ball heating?
4
« Last post by macman on April 16, 2024, 07:07:31 pm »
Try it with the HEPA filter removed. If OK, the filter is clogged.
Checked the internal ducting, changeover valve, bottom hose? Hot washed the cyclone?
5
« Last post by invisible on April 16, 2024, 07:02:29 pm »
Still got a blockage somewhere that is restricting the airflow? But must be fairly minor if it runs for 15 mins before shutting down.
Where blockage can be? Canister is clean, all hoses are clean... But the ball gets hot fairly quickly. Where can I check?
6
« Last post by UPEN on April 16, 2024, 04:06:23 pm »
I have a problem to crack open Dyson DC47.I have seen Neton Grave's post put can't seem to open the unit.He mansions several screws on the filter side but I can only see 2≥I have taken of all screws that I can find but the egg want open.I wander if someone can help.The problem with this DC47 is that the cable want retract.Thanks
7
« Last post by CraigR4 on April 16, 2024, 12:30:00 pm »
I cleaned the commutator.
On reflection, the bushes are a bit worn, but the springs are good, so I would expect maybe a bit of noise, but not total failure.
I will need to get a multimeter on the triac, just in case it has failed and not blown a pin
8
« Last post by macman on April 15, 2024, 03:47:16 pm »
Dirty or damaged commutator? Broken windings??
Very often the triac will overheat and blow a leg off, but you have ruled that out.
9
« Last post by CraigR4 on April 15, 2024, 11:43:09 am »
Cheers for the reply.
I stripped the motor down and the brushes and springs seem to be in fairly good condition.
I also checked the triac, and the legs and solder are intact.
Then, strangely, when I put it back together again, it wouldn’t start (light on power control flashes on but nothing more).
I then tried swapping the motor from my working C3 (403-42/2) and it started up fine.
Considering the component parts of the 408-42/2 seem ok, and neither the bushes nor the triac seem to be the problem - which seem to be the most common reasons for motor failure, I can’t see what the issue could be (with the motor).
Think I’ll have to wait till a scrap C3 appears.
10
« Last post by macman on April 14, 2024, 11:18:41 am »
If it's too far gone to just change the brushes, then a used motor from a scrapper is the only option. Another motor 'may' work, but there is relatively little interchangeability with Miele, and you are risking blowing the speed control board/PCB.
These are great machines to work on, being so easy to strip down, but the price of new spares is just absurd, even for the most basic parts like wand handles or hoses. No aftermarket motors are available as far as i know.
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