Dyson & Sebo Vacuum Cleaner Repair & Advice Forums
Dyson Models => Dyson DC07 => Topic started by: beko1987 on November 16, 2016, 10:26:51 pm
-
Hello! I thought I would write a how to guide on changing the YDK motor on a non clutched DC07. The clutched version does differ slightly, so if you need help with that, start a thread (or wait for the clutched version, it's coming!).
If you need help working out if your Dyson has a Clutch, look at it face on, does it have a Knob on the left hand side? No? Then read on!
You will need:
An YDK Motor - https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/dyson-motor-ydk-yv-dc04-dc07-dc14-dc27-dc33 (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/dyson-motor-ydk-yv-dc04-dc07-dc14-dc27-dc33)
A new Post Motor filter - It will be a pad on a non clutched 07 https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/DC07-DC14-Post-Motor-Filter-Pad (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/DC07-DC14-Post-Motor-Filter-Pad) although the HEPA one fits as well https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/DC07-DC14-HEPA-filter (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/DC07-DC14-HEPA-filter)
A nice medium sized flathead screwdriver
A T-15 screwdriver (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/Dyson-Torx-Star-Screwdriver-T15 (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/Dyson-Torx-Star-Screwdriver-T15))
So, onto business! This 07 has a perfectly fine motor, but I made the pictures as I was stripping it down for refurbishment. The back hose, pre motor filter and internal hose were already removed, as they had been washed. I'll point this out as needed, but you should notice.
[attachimg=1]
Remove the cyclone assembly
[attachimg=2]
Remove the wand and hose (the hose is held in with a tab at the bottom of it, pull the tab towards the hose to release it and pull upwards)
[attachimg=3]
Next, turn the cleaner over
[attachimg=4]
and remove the wand suction channel
[attachimg=5]
Remove the base plate
[attachimg=6]
then pop the belt off the motor spindle and remove the brushroll and belt (the belt had snapped and long gone on this machine!)
[attachimg=7]
Next, remove the cleaner head. There are 2 schools of thought to this. The first is to flip it back as far as it will go and lift it up and out of its pivots. I prefer to gently lever it up with a flatblade here
[attachimg=8]
and on the other side here
[attachimg=9]
-
This removes the inner brushroll housing. The internal hose will be attached to this, and attached to the underside of the changeover valve the other end. Pull it off the changeover valve
[attachimg=1]
Next, remove the c clips that hold the cleaner head to the chassis.
Pop your flatblade under one end and twist up, it'll pop out of the groove
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
and then pulls off. Do both sides.
Next, flop the cleanerhead down as far as it will go
[attachimg=4]
Pull the edges of both sides of the pivot apart with your fingers until it clears the chassis, and lift it off (it was impossible to photograph, so have a blurry after!)
[attachimg=5]
You should now be looking at this (hopefully not the rain or bitter cold part though!)
[attachimg=6]
Next we need to remove the cable. Undo this screw
[attachimg=7]
and pop these two locking tabs out. I insert my torx driver as shown
[attachimg=8]
then a sharp tap on the end pops the clips out either side. It looks like this when they go
[attachimg=9]
-
Then, once released the switch housing pulls off
[attachimg=1]
You can now see the switch
[attachimg=2]
Pull it all out, the cable grommit pulls out from its slot in the chassis
[attachimg=3]
Unplug the two brown wires from the switch, then pull the rubber boot off the blue wire (makes things easier later)
[attachimg=4]
Not sure what's happened with this picture, the re-size I do has corrupted it I think, but it shows the cable pushed back through the chassis well enough
[attachimg=5]
Pull the cable out of its slot on the chassis
[attachimg=6]
Next, we need to remove the Post Motor Filter. There are 3 tabs to carefully pop
[attachimg=7]
[attachimg=8]
[attachimg=9]
-
With a blown motor, this filter will look and smell like death, and possibly be melted with bits of molten carbon brush in it. Replace it!
[attachimg=1]
If the filter is original, it will be glued to the cover, as presumably Dyson replaced the cover and filter. So go ahead and pull the worst off
[attachimg=2]
Then pick all the rest off, the glue comes with it easily once you get started
[attachimg=3]
Next, remove the Pre Motor Filter cover
[attachimg=4]
(it sits here).
[attachimg=5]
If your filter is minging, go wash it now (either under the tap or in the washing machine. Or treat your machine https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/DC07-vacuum-filter-pad-kit (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/DC07-vacuum-filter-pad-kit) or https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/DC07-vacuum-HEPA-filter-kit (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/DC07-vacuum-HEPA-filter-kit). Then you will have a spare, so you can wash one and still use the machine, and swap and wash every 6 months. This filter being clogged is possibly why your motor burnt out, although not the only possible cause admittidly...)
Anyway, we are drifting! We now need to remove the motor housing. There are two screws here
[attachimg=6]
and here
[attachimg=7]
Undo these, and the motor unit lifts out of the chassis. Pull the spinal wire through too, and set the chassis aside
[attachimg=8]
Pull the ends of the outer vanity cover out and pull the motor housing cover off the motor housing
[attachimg=9]
-
[attachimg=1]
Another corrupted but surprisingly arty picture here, we need to release the 4 tabs holding the end plate onto the housing
[attachimg=2]
Once you have 2 tabs open, it generally comes off with a tug. Be careful though, sometimes the plastic is brittle and a tab will snap. You'll get away with one, if 2 go you'll need a new end cover https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/DC07-DC14-DC33%20Motor-Retaining-Ring (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/DC07-DC14-DC33%20Motor-Retaining-Ring) and swap the seal)
[attachimg=3]
You may well see a build up of hair here, now you can get behind it it pushes out easily
[attachimg=4]
Push the cable grommit into the motor housing
[attachimg=5]
Then, find a hard surface that won't matter if it gets marked (do not use the dining room table, ask me how I know...), place the motor down onto it on the belt spindle
[attachimg=6]
and push! The motor should push itself up the housing
[attachimg=7]
which loosens it enough to grab the rubber fancase seal and pull it the rest of the way out
[attachimg=8]
Find the metal belt guard, it will either be attached to the motor housing, attached to the motor or lying where it fell
[attachimg=9]
-
Remove the rubber seals, we need to transfer these to the new motor.
[attachimg=1]
The fancase seal lips over the edge
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
then unplug the spinal cord from the motor, and sling the :dead-dyson: motor in the bin!
Now, we need to re-assemble!
(This is the after shots of my refurbishment, hence why everything looks 100% cleaner! Plenty of how to guides on the forum if you wish to do the same!)
Prop the chassis up against something
[attachimg=4]
Take your new shiney motor, and motor seals
[attachimg=5]
You will notice that the smaller seal is keyed, along with the motor housing
[attachimg=6]
This allows it to fit in one way, and not strain the wires. The best way I can describe to fit it is to push the spinal cord through from the inside of the housing. Then, offer the motor up to it, with the motor wires on the same side as the spinal wire enters the housing
[attachimg=7]
The small seal fits into two holes on the motor case itself. Note the position of these holes, then, ensuring the fat key and thin key are the same side as the housing to the position of the motor in the above picture, pop the seal onto the motor and plug the cables in (brown to red, blue to black)
[attachimg=8]
Fit the belt guard to the motor housing
[attachimg=9]
-
Next, we need to fit the motor to the housing. A smear of grease around the inside of the motor housing helps here, or WD40 (although that might smell), vegetable oil would work (you only need a thin smear), or even spit or water ( :-X, it'll evaporate off). This helps the fancase seal not grip the housing, which makes it very tricky to do this part!
Offer the motor up again, but this time tuck the wires around the motor, above the carbon brush holder but under the fancase, then turn the lot over so you can see the keyed seal from the other side, and push it together. It will take a few attempts to line it all up, but eventually it will go. If you find the wires inside unplug, check the wires are routed correctly and not catching, and maybe tape the connectors together to stop it doing it.
Once together, check you can pull the spinal cord out to pop the grommit in place, and you should end up with this
[attachimg=1]
Refit the motor retaining ring
[attachimg=2]
Double check the spinal cord is sitting correctly (it does not go through any of the cable holders you see on the housing, that's for a DC33, they use the same part)
[attachimg=3]
Refit the motor housing cover
[attachimg=4]
Poke the spinal cord through the top hole
[attachimg=5]
Drop the motor unit into the chassis and fit the 4 screws
[attachimg=6]
Poke the spinal cord up through the top into the switch housing area
[attachimg=7]
push it into it's slot up the chassis and push the end into it's slot in the switch housing area
[attachimg=8]
Now, get your nice new post motor filter (and a nice air freshener if you are so inclined, I'm sure Mvacs will sell you one if you ask nicely, although he does not like them :underchair:
[attachimg=9]
-
Drop the air freshener (optional) into the filter housing
[attachimg=1]
fit the filter, whichever type you chose
[attachimg=2]
Fit the filter cover
[attachimg=3]
>:(
Fit your new/washed pre motor filter to the housing
[attachimg=4]
and fit that to the machine
[attachimg=5]
Next, lay the thing down, and lower the brushroll housing down past the changeover valve part, pull the edges by the pivot points out and it should drop on nicely
[attachimg=6]
[attachimg=7]
Check it still moves about fine. If it's stiff, a drop of grease/light oil on the little wheel underneath works wonders!
[attachimg=8]
Fit the internal hose to the inner brushroll housing. It screws on slightly
[attachimg=9]
-
Then, fit the other end to the changeover valve (like you removed it earlier, but I did not show)
[attachimg=1]
Push the inner housing into the pivot points on the outer housing and check it moves freely. If pivoting action is pretty rubbish (the hose IS the spring that makes the head contact the floor), or its torn then you need a new internal hose (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC07-spares.html/DC04-DC07-DC14-DC33-internal-hose)
[attachimg=2]
Next, we need to fit the brushroll and belt. Fit the belt to the brushroll, then fit the brushroll to the housing. With the machine 'upright' and on it's side, using your thumb/fingers (if you are fitting a new belt this part is tight, if you are re-using a belt, it'll be ok), slip the belt over the motor spindle. Then rotate the brushroll by hand for several turns to centre it all up
Yes I had to fit a new brushroll because the one on it was scrap
[attachimg=3]
Fit the baseplate (new baseplate too as it was broken)
[attachimg=4]
Double check everything still works fine, flops where it should and doesn't flop where it should not, and re-fit the pivot rings. Push one edge on, then push all the way around until it snaps into position
[attachimg=5]
We are sorted down there. Back up to the top, re-fit the switch and cable
[attachimg=6]
Refit the switch cover and housing (it will 'snap' into place, then do the screw up. You may need to push the switch to 'on' and hold the switch cover up a bit for it to clear the switch)
[attachimg=7]
Refit the wand suction channel
[attachimg=8]
Refit the wand and hose
[attachimg=9]
-
refit the cyclone and you are assembled!
[attachimg=1]
Now, plug her in and test it out! If nothing happens, then swear a bit, and I'm afraid you should have taken care to not pull the motor wires apart (or you will be lucky and have not plugged the switch back in, but that's unlikely). You will need to have it all apart and have another go (been there MANY times, it sucks I'm afraid!)
But hopefully all will be well, and your DC07 Origin will be fighting fit again, and ready for another decade or more of use!
There are several ways a motor goes:
Old age. Run time wears the motor down, so if you vacuum twice a day for 30 minutes at a time, your motor has just reached the end of it's life!
Running a blocked machine. This increases the work the motor has to do, it runs hot and kills itself
Water damage. Makes the carbon brushes wear down prematurely
Plain old bad luck! Motors are a mass produced item, and like everything made in batches of 50,000, you will get a dud sadly, although the age of a DC07 now, any from the factory that had a duff motor will be long gone/fixed by now!
I hope this helps you change a motor, and if you have any questions, please register and post, there are several of us here that can help!
Thanks
Sam
-
Brill tutorial! DC07's are so good, looks wise, reliablity wise, performance wise, etc! One of my favourite machines.
Regarding motors, weirdly early DC33's had crap motors in them, soooo many blew up after a year's worth of use, next door's blew up too. They got the motor replaced and it's still fighting strong 3 years later and they vacuum between 2-5 times a day every day :)
I wonder what makes motors last longer in a DC07 compared to a DC33 one as they both seem visibly the same, carbons etc :/ (tighter springs?)