Dyson & Sebo Vacuum Cleaner Repair & Advice Forums
Other Vacuum Cleaners & Site Suggestions => Sebo Vacuum Cleaners => Topic started by: stevey shep on September 06, 2018, 08:21:03 pm
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Sebo x4 , motor runs and brush turns fine but after a few minutes it starate to get noisy and smell of burning . Have cleaned it out doesn’t appear to have any blockage , could it be the motor? Any better ideas anyone please.
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suppose best thing to do is remove main body, strip upper cover from floor assembly, refit main body - switch on and use eyes n ears. does sound like motor by your description...
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Sounds like a motor to me as well.
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I have one in at the moment that does the above and it requires a motor .
Best thing to do is remove the head cover (four screws) then remove the belt cover next to the motor housing,then the motor cover is secured by another four screws .
Put the body back on and run for a couple of seconds and look at the motor if it sparks it would need replacing.
Hope this helps .
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Thanks all your help guys , put a new motor in today and all sorted .
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I have the same cleaner, similar fault.
The motor isn't great, but the brushes and commutator look good. Yet it sparks a lot and doesn't seem very free running.
A little oil in the bearing near the brushes has improved it a lot, but I think the other end needs some too. It makes a kind of sliding sound as it turns. The armature spins for a turn or two after I've turned it by hand : it barely turned at all without the oil. I'm guessing it's overheated and burnt it off. There's also some evidence that it sucked up a bit of water sometime (staining on the galvanised fan cover).
So how do I get to the other end of the armature ? I want to get the fan off but I'm unsure how to do that. There's a nut visible on the end of the shaft but I'm guessing that will just leave me with a fan blade loose on the shaft, not give me access to the second bearing.
I realise I'm supposed to just swap the motor, but there's not a lot wrong with it and they're not cheap - especially if I get the official SEBO one.
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Sam or Stu will probably know if the fan housing is defo removeable or not.
I have done henry and dyson by tapping off the housing then removing the fan nut with my ryobi impact driver.
Tbh once the bearings have run dry, they can be rescued by removing ideally and greased (if metal seals fitted) - but if too far gone they need to be replaced.
I did a couple of dyson / henry by boiling in grease and still good many months later.
Normally i wouldn't bother with dyson as pretty cheap but the henry type motor was from a cobblers american shoe working station, a modern motor was different sizing so had to strip new motors guts and transplant into old motor housing. the new motor bearing were crap so used the puller and luckily new dyson bearings fitted !
Thinkink about it now, didn't beko do a rebuild post on this sebo recently ?
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Yes, there's an awesomely detailed teardown here, but it doesn't go inside the motor.
I've found part of the answer anyway : there are two torx screws hidden under the brushes (take the brushes out). This removed the white plastic bearing mount and allows limited access inside the fan housing - enough to trickle some oil into the bearing, and it seems a lot happier now.
At that point, taking the fan nut off might have allowed further stripdown but it looks as though it's got threadlock on and I'm not sure how to grip the armature to undo it or replace it : I'm too well brought-up to use waterpump pliers on the toothed pulley. But there may be some possible access if I need to have another go.
Replacing the bearings would be great, but they don't seem too bad with a bit of new oil. I think the problem would be taking that toothed pulley off : not sure how that is fixed. Maybe with a hammer.
At least it doesn't smell of burning any more :-*
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Not sure how the motor overheated to this extent. One possibility is the usual threads wrapped around the brush, but they didn't seem to be jamming it. There's a water stain, but again, it doesn't seem severe.
The electronics have been broken for a while. So no bag-full detector and no brush adjustment. Maybe this has resulted in overloading the motor on a regular basis. Beware, those of you disabling the brush adjuster !
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When undoing or tightening nut on any moving shaft i always use the cordless ryobi impact driver and just hold the motor comm with a bit of rag between your fingers. I find using a hand driven socket is hard work - again the impact driver doesn't care about thread lock !
If i had to use oil i would use thick gear oil on bearings. I have some unused spare from my 4x4 days.
Sounds like that machine is on deaths door ;D
I had one where the body height adjustment failed, i tested the cam assembly so presume was on main board or the hall effect sensor failed.
Off top off my head i think the sensor works by measuring the rpm off the beater belt ?, when it slows (with too much friction) it then operates the cam down to lift the beater from the floor until rpm is back up slightly.
been a few years since that issue was in front of me and cannot remember how i sorted it - but i did. !
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I think it's more than just the RPM - I think it's the phase lag between two parts of the sensor, measuring the torque in the drive band.
But since none of the electronics works, it's probably something simpler - like no dc power to the board. It's a bit of a pain to work on due to the loud fast motor running next to it !
Impact driver is a good idea. I should get one !