Dyson & Sebo Vacuum Cleaner Repair & Advice Forums
Dyson Advice => Looking after your Dyson => Topic started by: RustySkull on May 01, 2017, 08:54:00 pm
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WD40 is fine with plastic, I've used it for years including on Dyson's flimsy plastic with no issues. I use it on everything to clean as well as oil and prevent corrosion.
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WD40 is fine with plastic, I've used it for years including on Dyson's flimsy plastic with no issues. I use it on everything to clean as well as oil and prevent corrosion.
Great to hear! I had a DC28 brushbar which was rusted badly. I was afraid to use WD-40 on it, so I kept dropping in a bit of electric motor oil into it, spinning it and wiping out the muddy grime. Did that about 100 times. :angryman: :))
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WD40 is fine with plastic, I've used it for years including on Dyson's flimsy plastic with no issues. I use it on everything to clean as well as oil and prevent corrosion.
Great to hear! I had a DC28 brushbar which was rusted badly. I was afraid to use WD-40 on it, so I kept dropping in a bit of electric motor oil into it, spinning it and wiping out the muddy grime. Did that about 100 times. :angryman: :))
I could of done with some of oil in one of my spare dyson motors before I literally chucked it down the driveway for the scrap metal collectors - Spilt tiny bit of screen cleaner into the top bearing of a YV-511 - ate dry all the oil and grease out of the bearing and seized the bugger up...
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Great to hear! I had a DC28 brushbar which was rusted badly. I was afraid to use WD-40 on it, so I kept dropping in a bit of electric motor oil into it, spinning it and wiping out the muddy grime. Did that about 100 times. :angryman: :))
Haha, remember WD40 is only oil, it's designed to oil and also clean, you can use it for all sorts of things... Starting engines, driving out water, oiling etc... It won't damage anything, very good stuff :)
I've used it to clean whole Vacuum's before :)
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That's good to know. I'm always afraid of melting plastic bits off.
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I did that with a cuckoo clock once and brake cleaner, everything was fine until the bird melted :boggleeye:
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Hahahaha... I mean, sorry for your clock...
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Clock was fine, still is just had to get a new birdy for it :grinn:
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Clock was fine, still is just had to get a new birdy for it :grinn:
Please tell me you have a photo of the melted bird
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Sorry
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I knew this forum would break my heart
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WD40 isn't much good on motor or brushroll bearings as it dries out when it gets hot and glues it up again. A silicone based lubricant is much better.
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WD40 isn't much good on motor or brushroll bearings as it dries out when it gets hot and glues it up again. A silicone based lubricant is much better.
I've heard that silicone is bad for high speed applications because of some molecular mumbo jumbo it tends to shear instead of creating a floating barrier between the surfaces. I say heard because I don't remember the source or if they were reliable.
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3 in 1
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Grease is good
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Yeah I've been using various types of 3 in 1 (silicone, dry lube, regular) as well as Viper Lube. Different types of different openings... so to speak
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:))
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:offtopic:
I use WD40 to clean and blast dirt away from clock movements then spray 3in1 to lubricate. Spray silicone is good for the chains on cuckoo's
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And melt shit when you don't have a flame
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no no that was brake cleaner
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Oh yes :))
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Back on topic a bit, I have oil from my RC car days which I still use often. I like it because it performs rather well and has a neat little applicator:
https://www.rcplanet.com/Trinity_Royal_Oil_p/tri4051.htm?gclid=Cj0KEQjwrsDIBRDX3JCunOrr_YYBEiQAifH1FmR3KxwwzeFFJB1nIqeRIYoqu4XwiqLo0JVEfHLBpKUaAsiu8P8HAQ
(https://www.rcplanet.com/66117-tm_large_default/Trinity_Royal_Oil.jpg)
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I've had WD40 come into contact with my hands and nothing happened :/
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That's what you are suppose to use for clocks lol my approach is more........ rustic :biglaugh:
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I've had WD40 come into contact with my hands and nothing happened :/
Did you know the best thing to use to get dirty motor oil off your hands is baby oil.
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I've had WD40 come into contact with my hands and nothing happened :/
Uh oh. It has chemicals which get absorbed through your skin and get into your brain.
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That's what you are suppose to use for clocks lol my approach is more........ rustic :biglaugh:
Rustic would be fresh cow poo
As an aside, when I used to work at a computer repair shop, we rebuilt fans often and I once used hand lotion as grease. The fan spun for a few weeks like that.
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:o
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Yeah, you're pretty much screwed.
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DC33.
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DC33.
What? Did the wd40 give you the brain damage?
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Nope I'm perfectly fine thank you :coffee:
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WD40 is made from fish oil there was a bloke on the news that rubbed it into his knees to relive arthritis. Lots of fishermen spray there lines and lures with it 1, for lubrication 2, as bait.
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Interesting....
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This what we use.
[attachimg=1]
Not standard WD40.
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This what we use.
(Attachment Link)
Not standard WD40.
I think I've seen that at the hardware store. I'll pick some up.
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Aldi have cans of lithium spray grease apparently, I keep meaning to go get some. I just use boggo car grease on bearings
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Aldi have cans of lithium spray grease apparently, I keep meaning to go get some. I just use boggo car grease on bearings
Gotta be careful. The bearings' codes will tell you if you should use grease or oil.
That said, usually by the time we get to servicing them, it doesn't matter anyway :)) :'(
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Exactly, by the time you have scraped out 15 years of dry old grease, got the thing turning again, filled it full of grease and refitted it so it's quieter it'll be fine. It's a hoover brushroll, not a car's wheel bearing! Also, there isn't much point oiling motor bearings on dysons, as their sealed bearings, so the oil goes nowhere near where it is supposed to 97% of the time. Either replace the bearings (608Z's I think) or replace the motor!
Again, I've never had any issue with greasing brushroll bearings, and I do every machine I get as it quietens them down!
From what I read on vacuumland ages ago, grease your balls, oil your sleeves. So a sleeve bearing, the kind Hoover used in Junior motors, where the bearing is a brass sleeve around the shaft, oil works well (although again, I've used a thin smear of grease before!). Ball bearing bearings, oil, as it holds the balls in suspension (or similar) plus doesn't fling straight out when you fire it up.
I rarely use normal WD40 for much more than sticker removal nowadays. I have a can of spray grease which I rarely use, a can of 3-in-1 oil which gets dripped into non replaceable bearings to shut them up (lux 500 etc), tin of normal motor grease for brushroll bearings, then plusgas and coppaslip for the car. Seems to do well enough. I do want to get some white lithium grease though, for helping plastic moving parts glide a bit better.
Apparently for really old stuff, sewing machine oil is the thing to use, but I don't have any of that, and my 1930's Hoover 825 was quite happy with 3 in 1 (not turned it on in 4 years, will see what it's like when I ever get round to finding all the bits and rebuilding it!
So yes, Grease your Balls, Oil your Sleeves. Save WD40 for waterproofing electrics, removing stickers and buffing up cyclone bins!
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Exactly, by the time you have scraped out 15 years of dry old grease, got the thing turning again, filled it full of grease and refitted it so it's quieter it'll be fine. It's a hoover brushroll, not a car's wheel bearing! Also, there isn't much point oiling motor bearings on dysons, as their sealed bearings, so the oil goes nowhere near where it is supposed to 97% of the time. Either replace the bearings (608Z's I think) or replace the motor!
Again, I've never had any issue with greasing brushroll bearings, and I do every machine I get as it quietens them down!
From what I read on vacuumland ages ago, grease your balls, oil your sleeves. So a sleeve bearing, the kind Hoover used in Junior motors, where the bearing is a brass sleeve around the shaft, oil works well (although again, I've used a thin smear of grease before!). Ball bearing bearings, oil, as it holds the balls in suspension (or similar) plus doesn't fling straight out when you fire it up.
I rarely use normal WD40 for much more than sticker removal nowadays. I have a can of spray grease which I rarely use, a can of 3-in-1 oil which gets dripped into non replaceable bearings to shut them up (lux 500 etc), tin of normal motor grease for brushroll bearings, then plusgas and coppaslip for the car. Seems to do well enough. I do want to get some white lithium grease though, for helping plastic moving parts glide a bit better.
Apparently for really old stuff, sewing machine oil is the thing to use, but I don't have any of that, and my 1930's Hoover 825 was quite happy with 3 in 1 (not turned it on in 4 years, will see what it's like when I ever get round to finding all the bits and rebuilding it!
So yes, Grease your Balls, Oil your Sleeves. Save WD40 for waterproofing electrics, removing stickers and buffing up cyclone bins!
You're right. I had greased the original bearings in my DC14 and you could hear how much they quieted down.... for about 15 minutes. Then they sounded worse than before! At that point, having pulled the cages off, soaked it in bearing cleaner, getting it spotless and it still wouldn't spin freely, I replaced them with 2 bearings I got off of Amazon in a 10 for $10 deal. These cheap bearings chatter alot but... screw it. I also popped them in a 33 I refurbed and screw that too.
Oil/Grease in bearings: That sounds about right. I figured that out ages ago with computer fans. Using oil on sleeves works great... oil in ball bearings just leads to a seized bearing :boggleeye: Fortunately there isn't much cost to a burnt fan except a slightly warmer computer :))
I have a whole assortment of oils and greases. I try to pick the best one for the job but sometimes I get it wrong. Used the white lithium grease in the DC14 bearings (see the first story)..... turns out that stuff gets liquid-y when warm then flings straight out, as you said. Oops.
Regarding the sewing machine oil: WD40 might fit the bill.... the oil left behind is very light and I believe sewing machine oil is as well. If not, check out the oil I linked to above. There are a few types (the one I have is brownish yellow) and it has a great applicator for most purposes. Probably should be able to land a bottle for cheap and it will last forever. I've had mine for at least 10 years and it's only 20% used.
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Oooh didnt see a link, I'll have a look
Your right about it lasting forever though, I've had my tin of grease for 3 years and it's just over half used! I don't fully agree with the brushroll bearings sounding louder after a greasing, when I've had machines back a few years later for a snapped belt/other issue they've always sounded fine to me (although I find DC07 Origins have a funny roar to them even with a brand new brushroll and belt).
I found the original thread I read years ago - http://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?11638 (http://bit.ly/2qo3KkF)
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The oil in your link says use in bushing type bearings, which I think is the fancy word used to describe sleeve bearings. Plus the sleeve bearings it will refer to in R/C cars will be tiny I imagine. It'll probably be fine though, and may be slightly handy for motor bearings as it could be thin enough to seep into it. But then will it soften up the dried up old grease in there? If not, then it's kind of pointless, plus is it thick enough to not just run out?
I remembered why I don't use my spray grease, it stinks! I lubed the bearing on a turbopower 2 once and it stank! Worked well on the height corrector on the Xantia though IIRC
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Oooh didnt see a link, I'll have a look
Your right about it lasting forever though, I've had my tin of grease for 3 years and it's just over half used! I don't fully agree with the brushroll bearings sounding louder after a greasing, when I've had machines back a few years later for a snapped belt/other issue they've always sounded fine to me (although I find DC07 Origins have a funny roar to them even with a brand new brushroll and belt).
I found the original thread I read years ago - http://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?11638 (http://bit.ly/2qo3KkF)
Yeah, I believe it was like $10 back in the day. Might be a bit more now, but it's good quality. I've used it on everything, including door hinges.
I wasn't saying they were louder after greasing, I was saying the grease I used was wrong and the already hosed bearings were then more upset with me....
thanks, reading that link now!
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The oil in your link says use in bushing type bearings, which I think is the fancy word used to describe sleeve bearings. Plus the sleeve bearings it will refer to in R/C cars will be tiny I imagine. It'll probably be fine though, and may be slightly handy for motor bearings as it could be thin enough to seep into it. But then will it soften up the dried up old grease in there? If not, then it's kind of pointless, plus is it thick enough to not just run out?
I remembered why I don't use my spray grease, it stinks! I lubed the bearing on a turbopower 2 once and it stank! Worked well on the height corrector on the Xantia though IIRC
I wouldn't use that oil for bearings, to be honest. It's a semi-light oil. I found it is good for joints, etc., but wouldn't put it in ball bearings.
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Exactly, by the time you have scraped out 15 years of dry old grease, got the thing turning again, filled it full of grease and refitted it so it's quieter it'll be fine. It's a hoover brushroll, not a car's wheel bearing! Also, there isn't much point oiling motor bearings on dysons, as their sealed bearings, so the oil goes nowhere near where it is supposed to 97% of the time. Either replace the bearings (608Z's I think) or replace the motor!
Again, I've never had any issue with greasing brushroll bearings, and I do every machine I get as it quietens them down!
From what I read on vacuumland ages ago, grease your balls, oil your sleeves. So a sleeve bearing, the kind Hoover used in Junior motors, where the bearing is a brass sleeve around the shaft, oil works well (although again, I've used a thin smear of grease before!). Ball bearing bearings, oil, as it holds the balls in suspension (or similar) plus doesn't fling straight out when you fire it up.
I rarely use normal WD40 for much more than sticker removal nowadays. I have a can of spray grease which I rarely use, a can of 3-in-1 oil which gets dripped into non replaceable bearings to shut them up (lux 500 etc), tin of normal motor grease for brushroll bearings, then plusgas and coppaslip for the car. Seems to do well enough. I do want to get some white lithium grease though, for helping plastic moving parts glide a bit better.
Apparently for really old stuff, sewing machine oil is the thing to use, but I don't have any of that, and my 1930's Hoover 825 was quite happy with 3 in 1 (not turned it on in 4 years, will see what it's like when I ever get round to finding all the bits and rebuilding it!
So yes, Grease your Balls, Oil your Sleeves. Save WD40 for waterproofing electrics, removing stickers and buffing up cyclone bins!
On beraring note - my Fidget spinner has the same size bearing of a non-clutch dyson brushroll... Only difference being is the fidget one spins for much longer - think the dyson bearings worn... Did have to spend hours getting my fidget bearing working again - dropped the damn thing in water - bit of disk cleaner (Alcohol) and some oil later and were back to normal - except its now noisyer that it was - at least it now spins fine (I think better than before) and is no longer rusted
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Ha, speaking of those, I was tempted to get one at the car boot (was some bloke selling them for £4) and see if the bearings were any use on anything!
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Ha, speaking of those, I was tempted to get one at the car boot (was some bloke selling them for £4) and see if the bearings were any use on anything!
Chances are they're low quality bearings at that price (or they were stolen... ha). You'll get a better deal buying them in bulk online.
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I don't know why you all panic so much really... Oil and forget.
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i try not to use wd40, unless to free off seized metal parts.
Ptfe based spray i find ok for moving plastics.
Grease from the tub is good for other applications but a word of warning using the pound shop aerosol style grease.
I believe it is petroleum based, i had an electric black and decker strimmer in for repair, the one with the moving plastic swivel head. stripped - found the bad cable, thought i would clean up the motor and commutator etc whilst in there.
All went well, then i thought after reassembly the head plastics felt a bit rough when twisting and locking into required position, a liberal spray of this grease into the moving plastics well sorted it.....
However, as i suspect it is petroleum based (smells like it to me ) it produced a highly flammable vapour in the head assembly which isnt good with the slightest spark from the motor brushes....
This one exploded as i tested the unit, quite a bang for a small amount of spray grease.
Very funny looking back ;D
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Oof.... that's not fun. I've always tried to limit WD40 to metal... I'll start trying it with some plastics.
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lol did you have an involuntary bowel movement :))
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What happens between me and the seat on the bus are none of your concern.
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You lot over think everything lol.
WD40 is harmless.
As for clock movements, I use 15W40.
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You lot over think everything lol.
WD40 is harmless.
As for clock movements, I use 15W40.
I just want to make sure I don't, for instance, spray a bunch of WD40 into the guts of a Dyson ball then watch it all melt away. Listing a salvage power cord, cyclone and handle on ebay is alot less fun than a working machine :))
Also, I soak everything in diesel before I work on it.
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Also, I soak everything in diesel before I work on it.
You're better off with a mix of Gas Oil and Kero.
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Diesel isn't as explosive.... but ok.... I'll trust you.
Should I also mix bleach and ammonia in the basement when cleaning the machines?
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I always hit bearings with wd40 and clean the old grease out with an air compressor along with the WD40 before I grease the bearings. Sometimes if no dirt has gotten inside one, I just put a drop of white mineral oil on the grease and they're spinning like a champ with minimal effort. I've found marine grease to be the best, stuff they use on boats. Resists rusting and corrosion more.
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The clue is in the name WD stands for Water Displacing.
It dries out and leaves a surface deposit which is insulating so DO NOT USE IT ON ELECTRICAL CONTACTS!
Dries out - so not much use for long term lubrication :(
Bearings can have seals OR shields.....seals seal the balls and races so no grease/oil can get in or out.
Shields shield the balls/races from foreign matter getting in. Seals and shields can be removed and sometimes can be put back in if carefully removed. Best do an internet search on "bearing seals" and "bearing shields" to see how they fit and work and get the full information.
Grease is a mixture that contains oil, hence when the, lubricating, oil has dried up the rest of the material is dried up in appearance and has no further lubricating properties.
Looking up bearing lubrication on the internet will also tell you what to use, not by make but by type. and will give you brain failure or at least a headache. ;D
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The world is full of stuff, your best plan is to ignore it.
P.S I do miss winding people up with stupid subjects on here, and other platforms. Last week I soaked my iPad in 5W40 to stop it slowing down.
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:)) :)) :))
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i try not to use wd40, unless to free off seized metal parts.
Ptfe based spray i find ok for moving plastics.
Grease from the tub is good for other applications but a word of warning using the pound shop aerosol style grease.
I believe it is petroleum based, i had an electric black and decker strimmer in for repair, the one with the moving plastic swivel head. stripped - found the bad cable, thought i would clean up the motor and commutator etc whilst in there.
All went well, then i thought after reassembly the head plastics felt a bit rough when twisting and locking into required position, a liberal spray of this grease into the moving plastics well sorted it.....
However, as i suspect it is petroleum based (smells like it to me ) it produced a highly flammable vapour in the head assembly which isnt good with the slightest spark from the motor brushes....
This one exploded as i tested the unit, quite a bang for a small amount of spray grease.
Very funny looking back ;D
Hello again, Just taken your advice and placed an order for this product 11 50 pm on 15/11/19, it will arrive Sunday 16/11/19 - Good old amazon prime (free trial period of course) no annual paid subscriptions here :)
Not sure on price as I had 15 minutes to place the order and I bought other stuff as well, including the MV recommendation High performance Silicone Lubricant as used by MV (just to cover my bases).
Memo to self - avoid buying stull online after you have had two tins of 8% K cider as you tend to get carried away :)
Ah well, it's only money, you cannot take it with you. Catch you later. Jim.
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WD40 is fine with plastic, I've used it for years including on Dyson's flimsy plastic with no issues. I use it on everything to clean as well as oil and prevent corrosion.
Rusty, there is only one big niggle that pops into my head when thinking of applying any oils etc., etc., on the under carriage of the vac is what if it dribbles. You clean all the dust etc., on that lovely carpet and shock horror you wonder what those nasty oil stains are on the carpet after you finish. The wife will NOT thank you :( - Best put a caveat after the oil recommendation as to what is the best carpet oil stain remover :) - just an observation and conclusion.
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WD40 is fine with plastic, I've used it for years including on Dyson's flimsy plastic with no issues. I use it on everything to clean as well as oil and prevent corrosion.
I think its great but I also use it for brush roll bearings but I just saw that apparently it dries out when its hot
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wd40 good for freeing up mechanical, i use it on my fishing reel bale arm bearing before going out as it prevents problems on the small bearing.
Back to vacs, smaller low speed bearings i always used 3in1 oil, ensure the bearing is clean beforehand.
Beater bar bearings, generally had a removeable shim on each side, if so remove and soak bearings in petrol or parrafin.
Fill with general car grease, refit shims and will be good for many miles.
fully sealed bearings or the ones with metal sides, clean as above - dry out then what i used to do was soak them in hot grease. i used a stainless steel pot in which i put a couple of spoons of regular car grease. Pop it on top of my log burner, grease melts (not boils) insert bearings and leave for a couple of hours.
you will find that the melted grease will seep into the bearings, used this method for years.
There are many options, everyone has their own methods, do what works for you, but using wd40 as a bearing long term lube isn't good.
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I must admit I’ve not read through previous replies (saw 5 pages and thought sod that) but I don’t ever use WD40 on bearings of any kind in vacuums- it’s flammable so it doesn’t go anywhere near motors (not that it would really burn anyway, but just to be on the safe side), plus it attracts dust and grime so it doesn’t go near brushroll bearings either. A bit of grease or 3 in 1 dribbly stuff usually does the job
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As said its ideal for freeing stuff up but thats about it.
If you need to it can kinda borrow you some time on bearings if you cannot at the time replace- for example I had a motor where the bearings were shot, WD40 bought me some time on it and quietned them down until I could afford a motor for it, infact it lasted 3 years before they started to get noisy again- but its not something you should do and should just pack the bearings with new grease, or replace if they are in that bad a state.
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WD40 isn't much good on motor or brushroll bearings as it dries out when it gets hot and glues it up again. A silicone based lubricant is much better.
I use it on the motor seal when fitting a new motor to a Dyson. Although, Vaseline isn't bad too either.
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WD40 isn't much good on motor or brushroll bearings as it dries out when it gets hot and glues it up again. A silicone based lubricant is much better.
I use it on the motor seal when fitting a new motor to a Dyson. Although, Vaseline isn't bad too either.
We use Mr Sheen or a similar spray or a silicone spray.