Dyson & Sebo Vacuum Cleaner Repair & Advice Forums
Dyson Models => Second Generation "The Ball" Dysons. => Topic started by: beko1987 on April 10, 2018, 06:17:42 pm
-
I hate the dc40 yolk loom. Just had a dc40 back because I didn't run it correctly and it's snagged and snapped. Any tips on how it should go before I have it apart tonight and solder the wire back together?
-
You are not alone.
First couple i did i had problems but fortunate not to snap the cable.
I ended up fitting the yoke loom with the yoke in down position, ensure it isn't twisted and just tuck it in.
before covering it back up with that plastic top section, i spray the two wires in that tucked area liberally with silicone lubricant (the type from auto factors used for car door rubbers and windows).
Problem you have now is when you join the snapped wire it will be proud and possibly snag on the join, however there is a way to join cables with very little of the outer insulation being proud of itself but very difficult to do for some.
I would in your case put a very small ball joint in the wire, then if you have it, a small piece of heat shrink over the area but not on the joined wire alone... put it over both wires to support the join.
the wire you join will fail again in time if it isn't supported.
-
Sam, if you get chance - can you measure yoke output voltage please on this vac ?
Should be dc, is it an ERP version ?
Thanks
-
Sorry mate, it went back last night! Tayyab told me the thing I was missing (did not pull the slack up into the PCB area, so it got snagged and tore the cable). Soldered the wire up, heatshrunk it and am hoping for the best!
It was an ERP as well, I don't have one at all now
-
Oh was that clip missing, it comes with a new yolk loom. it's a sort of L shape...
not to worry about the voltage, should be 320vdc anyway.
cheers
-
No the clip was there, I hadn't dealt with the slack.
God that clip is horrible man, horrible. You get that lined up the find the plug had pulled out of the bit it sits in, so fix that then the clip goes, etc
-
:'(
awful, i did my first one a couple of years ago and i clearly remember it as i was at it for nearly 2 hours.
Then i couldn't get the dam machine to stand up, took it apart several times and ended up fluking it.
The others i did took 30 min thereafter.
TBH i havent done one for approx 6 months so will struggle next time i do one.
-
You'll get used to it lol
I'd rather not solder them tbh I learnt the hard way, they won't fully lock upright unless you push the wheels all the way down for it to click upright (the wires have to be smooth and straight for the yolk to glide up and down
freely)
I'll tell you what's horrible though- refitting a DC75 cinetic big ball yolk assembly correctly- the cog is an absolute nightmare to align and to fit the yolk at the same time! Just a warning incase you guys ever get one in the future
I'd rather change a DC27 motor!