Dyson & Sebo Vacuum Cleaner Repair & Advice Forums
Other Vacuum Cleaners & Site Suggestions => Hoover Vacuum Cleaners => Topic started by: beko1987 on July 25, 2016, 10:39:04 pm
-
Hello my Vacuum Cleaner Chums!
A few days ago, I got 2 parcels from our good hosts
There was some modern rubbish in there, as well as 2 Hoover Juniors. In this thread, we will concentrate on the Brown 1969 Junior. Apparently the last in the line, a Phase 3, soon superseded by the 1346A (as helpfully explained in the comments on the above video!
[attachimg=1]
The ratings plate is present, but just about readable
[attachimg=2]
The immediate issue I saw was the lovely original rare as :censored: bag had paint all over it
[attachimg=3]
The rest of the machine wasn't too bad though
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
It won't be too far from home in the Dyson Museum either, having seen action 13 miles away at some point in its life
[attachimg=6]
[attachimg=7]
The bumper was hanging off at the back
[attachimg=8]
And there is a big crack in the side
[attachimg=9]
-
The belt pulley, a common wear point, was lovely and unworn
[attachimg=1]
The same could not be said for the belt
[attachimg=2]
Let's get the bag off, it's held on with a screw and thread
[attachimg=3]
and it lifts off the collar
[attachimg=4]
There was a bojack bag fitted
[attachimg=5]
Which looks quite old judging by the other machines listed as fitment
[attachimg=6]
With the bolt removed from the lower collar, the bag peels away from the bag fill tube
[attachimg=7]
Which by the looks of it, hasn't happened for a while!
The bag holder (a rubber belt) is removed
[attachimg=8]
and the bellows seperated from the bag fill tube
[attachimg=9]
-
Initially, the bag fill tube looked blocked
[attachimg=1]
but it turned out to be a piece of foam stuck to the inside, presumably to stop the noise of grit bouncing it's way to the bag
[attachimg=2]
After a damn good bash out it looked much better
[attachimg=3]
Top half of the handle now
[attachimg=4]
The bag support bracket is held in with a circlip and bar
[attachimg=5]
With the circlip removed, and the bar withdrawn the bracket falls out the handle
[attachimg=6]
The cable is held up at the middle by a (http://static.giantbomb.com/uploads/square_small/0/4938/360583-gromit.jpg) and bracket
[attachimg=7]
The bracket pulls off the (http://static.giantbomb.com/uploads/square_small/0/4938/360583-gromit.jpg)
[attachimg=8]
The bottom part of the handle is bolted to the handle bail assembly, at the bottom (if you hadn't already guessed!)
[attachimg=9]
-
The lower handle section fits into the handle bail by means of a rubber housing, which pulls off the lower handle part
[attachimg=1]
The machine is MUCH easier to photograph now...
Belt guard off
[attachimg=2]
Holding bracket removed
[attachimg=3]
Next off is the release pedal to lower the handle, as the handle assembly won't pull out with it fitted
[attachimg=4]
Out comes the brushroll, looking a bit peaky
[attachimg=5]
The belt looks very past it now it's fully out.. Still span the brushroll though, I'd like to see a DC07 do that with a belt in this state... :underchair:
[attachimg=6]
To strip the brushroll, first unscrew and end cap (one side will come off, one side wont)
[attachimg=7]
One side had an end cap spring fitted, which was nearly falling apart
[attachimg=8]
Grip the brushroll axle with something, and unscrew the other end cap. Both should now be free
[attachimg=9]
-
Here we encounter the first issue. One brushroll bearing came out of the end cap fine, the other not so fine
[attachimg=1]
The bearing had seized, then violently unseized itself at some point by shearing the 2 halves apart, so the inner part, stuck fast to the end cap needs some tappy action with a small/medium hammer
[attachimg=2]
Brushroll strips (which are of superb length and stiffness) are slid out
[attachimg=3]
And that's the brushroll done!
Next, we remove the lower cover from underneath the machine
[attachimg=4]
As with all Juniors of this age, the spark arrestor pad is perished to dust, so I removed the remnants, I doubt it sparks much anyway
[attachimg=5]
Which is just as well really, as sparks would have loved this...
[attachimg=6]
I dug a bit, and found a motor!
[attachimg=7]
First, I removed the cable
[attachimg=8]
Which allowed me to pull it free of the various (http://wallaceandgromit.net/images/wng_trail.jpg)s
[attachimg=9]
-
Looking at the cable, it has the original wiring terminals on, but they looked very frayed and horrible
[attachimg=1]
So I chopped them off
[attachimg=2]
Next, we remove the rear wheels
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
By removing various circlips and washers, they strip off their axle
[attachimg=5]
The other 2 screws release the handle bail assembly, which withdraws easily due to us removing the release pedal earlier!
[attachimg=6]
[attachimg=7]
This is where they wear, this step wears smooth, and the machine no longer sits upright. This one isn't too bad, if you jiggle it about it flops down, but picking it up squarely, and pushing it on it's wheels is fine. It would certainly be alot of work for not much gain to re-profile it, so I left it!
[attachimg=8]
Next out of it's fluffy home is the front wheels
[attachimg=9]
-
Of course, a whole fake mustache was hiding under it
[attachimg=1]
More circlips and washers later
[attachimg=2]
Next off is the furniture guard, which had been stuck on at one point in it's 47 year life, and removing it took some bits of plastic with it...
[attachimg=3]
Getting there!
[attachimg=4]
But first the switch needs to be removed
[attachimg=5]
[attachimg=6]
Next, to remove the motor, and this is where a very long screwdriver comes in handy
[attachimg=7]
out she comes!
[attachimg=8]
In these next few pictures, I tried to point out what wire went where, but failed miserably as I got them wrong, so:
[attachimg=9]
This terminal (the top carbon brush) has a black wire, which goes to one side of the supressor
-
As shown in this picture...
[attachimg=1]
With the screw removed, the bracket holding the carbon brush spring is removed
[attachimg=2]
But not the carbon brush itself, as it's stuck in with fluff... (the spring came off). So next off, is the black cable from the other side of the supressor, which goes round and joins up with the neutral cable from the mains
[attachimg=3]
The wire left in the terminal block comes from the switch
[attachimg=4]
which once removed releases the switch a bit more
[attachimg=5]
The switch cap pulls off the switch itself
[attachimg=6]
The live wire from the switch plugs into one side of the supressor. The black wire (unrelated but runs through the conduit) is the neutral from the terminal block to the supressor. Both pull out of the supressor
[attachimg=7]
The long red wire comes from the field coil, and the short black is the one that sits on the top carbon holder
[attachimg=8]
Next off is the supressor, which also holds the field coil on inside
[attachimg=9]
-
British Made :bow:
[attachimg=1]
I'm not too sure what this is, but I'm going to say an earthing strap. These machines are double insulated, so no need for an earth wire (stuart...) (where's Tech12 to confirm? He would know!). It joins the rear bearing housing to the supressor bracket
[attachimg=2]
The bottom carbon holder was buried under some more fluff
[attachimg=3]
Now we can crack the motor open. There are 4 screws and bolts, 3 are black, and are fancase side, and one at the rear
[attachimg=4]
And one is shiney, and also forms the bolt that holds the rear bearing bracket in place
[attachimg=5]
Lol
[attachimg=6]
The motor housing seal comes off now, and is in great condition, so no need for silicone sealent replacement
[attachimg=7]
This machine has seen alot of fine dust in it's time, the front of the motor casing was packed with it!
[attachimg=8]
When the motor housing was opened, the terminal block fell out, as it is just held by 2 tabs, locked into place when the housing is screwed up
[attachimg=9]
-
Now we can see the other carbon brush holder, hidden away under the motor cover
[attachimg=1]
And the fancase bearing
[attachimg=2]
The rear bearing is half released already, one more screw removes the bracket fully, and the armature can be withdrawn
[attachimg=3]
The rear bearing is in very good order
[attachimg=4]
Bit dirty, but spins beautifully
[attachimg=5]
Time to look at the armature now
[attachimg=6]
Holding the armature in one hand, hold the fan and turn it anti clockwise, which should release the belt pulley, then spin it off, and remove the pulley, fan, fibre washer, 2 spacer washers and standoff tube
[attachimg=7]
More plaster dust under the fan (I'm not sure if it's asbestos or not, but I didn't lick it so I should be ok...)
[attachimg=8]
Hoover - Who Better?
[attachimg=9]
-
The fan is original, which is nice to see, and in great condition
[attachimg=1]
The trusty bearing puller released the fancase bearing
[attachimg=2]
Which was utterly filthy
[attachimg=3]
But cleaned up well, and again, is smooth as silk. It's seen new bearings before!
[attachimg=4]
With the little yellow wire unscrewed, the field coil lifts off the motor housing (well, it would have come with the armature, but lets not split hairs)
[attachimg=5]
Nearly there!
[attachimg=6]
I can now push the stuck carbon out with a small screwdriver, and they are quite worn, probably only another 7-8 years left in them...
[attachimg=7]
The carbon brush holders unscrew and lift out
[attachimg=8]
Now the motor is stripped into it's component form, time to move back to the chassis
3 screws help hold the firewall to the chassis
[attachimg=9]
-
With them removed, it's time to break the seal, carefully prise around the join until the ancient glue stuff gives in
[attachimg=1]
and the firewall and air path can be lifted out
[attachimg=2]
Here we can see the other side of the large crack
[attachimg=3]
And some damage done by the rear bumper/impact damage
[attachimg=4]
and some fine cracks on one side of the brushroll end
[attachimg=5]
None of which were too bad, and the whole thing was still sturdy, so I opted to dribble a tiny amount of glue into them from the inside, and leave them alone!
The belt guard underneath is removed by releasing the spring, and the rest falls out!
[attachimg=6]
Empty!
[attach=7]
Full!
[attachimg=8]
Everything was soaked overnight, then washed, cleaned further with cream cleaner, then I cracked the machine polisher out...
-
(http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/katie-sandows-adentures/images/9/9f/Wallace.png/revision/latest?cb=20141224163629)
-
It came up bloody beautifully
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
Ogling over, I cleaned the firewall off
[attachimg=5]
and turned to our mate Tommy for some help
[attachimg=6]
to re-seal everything up!
[attachimg=7]
[attachimg=8]
And a large, thick bead around where the firewall goes
[attachimg=9]
-
And fitted and tidied up
[attachimg=1]
As tidy as it can be the other side, where my fingers wont reach
[attachimg=2]
One thing we have not touched yet is the handle bail assembly
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
On this side, a tiny circlip holds it all together, which releases the metal guide, and metal plate (which pushes the mechanism down when the release pedal is pressed)
[attachimg=5]
The 'bolt' (which isn't really a bolt) pushes through now
[attachimg=6]
Which releases the 2 main halves, along with the tensioning spring
[attachimg=7]
The other 'bolt' (with the recessed head that guides the release plate) is held in with another circlip, and when pushed through releases the spring plate.
[attachimg=8]
Like so! The whole lot was cleaned off, and given a buff with wire wool to make it shine, then back together with some lovely new grease
[attachimg=9]
-
The spring sits snugly inside the lower half
[attachimg=1]
and slides into the top half, with the 'bolt' pushed through before it all moves about!
[attachimg=2]
Release plate fitted
[attachimg=3]
To tension the inner spring, you simply pull the end of it across and over the tab inside (I didn't take a picture, but it's easy when it's infront of you)!
Done, a quick wipe over to remove any greasy prints from assembly
[attachimg=4]
All the other bits were ciffed up
[attachimg=5]
And we can start on the motor
[attachimg=6]
Following a very helpful guide on Vacuumland, which says 'Oil your sleeves and Grease your balls', I got some spray grease, which is a bit like oil...
[attachimg=7]
and saturated the felt oil pads of the motor bearings with it!
Carbon brush holders back in
[attachimg=8]
The coil (be sure to have the side with the mounting holes for the supressor facing the holes in the motor casing) slides over the armature, and with the bearings fitted either end slots into the motor housing. I then did the rear bearign clamp up (and fitted the earth strap)
[attachimg=9]
-
Rear bearing clamp screwed down the other side
[attachimg=1]
To stop the whole lot flopping about, I fitted the clamp to the supressor, and screwed it on, which screws up the coil as well
[attachimg=2]
I forgot which way I disassembled it, so quickly put the fan on whilst it was accessible
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
Fancase bearing clamp fitted
[attachimg=6]
We need to get the terminal block ready now
[attachimg=7]
and one final check of the internals, before we get the carbon brushes
[attachimg=8]
I scrapped a 1334 for parts a while ago, and found it's tub of bits, which has much better carbons in, so pinched those for this
[attachimg=9]
We need to fit the lower one now, and fit the yellow wire and screw it all up
-
With that fitted, the casing can be done up nice and tight
[attachimg=1]
Let's put the cleaned up wiring back in now, as it came off! Which is:
Black wire from terminal, around the motor and into the back of the supressor
Black wire the other side of the supressor up into the top carbon brush housing
Red wire from terminal into the switch
Red wire back out of the switch and into the back of the supressor
Red wire from the other side of the supressor, around the motor and into the coil (hard wired).
[attachimg=2]
Motor to chassis seal fitted, and I put a smear of grease around it to help the seal
[attachimg=3]
and filled a hole (the light was fading by this point, so the picture quality takes a drop, sorry!)
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
Screwed the switch up as it was getting in the way flopping about
[attachimg=6]
Whilst admiring the hood on the table earlier with a few beers, I got the 0000 wire wool and Silvo out, and polished up the axles, so we can now put the front wheels back together
[attachimg=7]
and fit them to the machine
[attachimg=8]
Then drop the handle bail into the chassis, and screw the rear wheels on
[attachimg=9]
-
I fitted the bumper
[attachimg=1]
put the belt cover back together
[attachimg=2]
and called it a night!
The next day, I got the cable fitted
[attachimg=3]
Push it through the handle (https://fangirlydotcom.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/gromit_thumbs_up.jpg), lower handle securing (https://fangirlydotcom.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/gromit_thumbs_up.jpg) and cable entry (https://fangirlydotcom.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/gromit_thumbs_up.jpg), then strip the wires
[attachimg=4]
I stripped enough off to make a loop at the end, and screwed them down neatly
[attachimg=5]
and fitted the cable clamp
[attachimg=6]
Cover back on, and we are done under here!
[attachimg=7]
Tuck the first (https://fangirlydotcom.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/gromit_thumbs_up.jpg) into its slot
[attachimg=8]
Fit the rubber sleeve to the bottom of the handle
[attachimg=9]
-
and fit the lower handle, the cable (https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/98/f6/18/98f618fd33c26ca4fb7f9246e5b112a6.jpg) to the securing bracket, slide the securing bracket onto the upper handle, fit the upper handle, move the bracket to over the holes and bolt the whole lot together!
[attachimg=1]
Bag fill tube and bellows now
[attachimg=2]
and using some fairly crap double sided tape fit the foam stuff to the inside of the bag fill tube
[attachimg=3]
Then fit the tube and bellows together
[attachimg=4]
Now for a hack! Take a Miele S7 bag
[attachimg=5]
Chop the top off
[attachimg=6]
and with some considerable difficulty (would be easier to just cable tie it on than try and manouvre the bag holding belt tbh) fit the bag to the fill tube
[attachimg=7]
Voila, HEPA bollocks, but most importantly, no more dust leakage through single wall bags, messing up our nice, washed, clean outer bag!
[attachimg=8]
I find it easier to fit the bellows to the machine first
[attachimg=9]
Then the bag around that. As an added bonus, the paint DID almost come off, a few tiny spots are left, but any more work would have risked ruining the bag.
-
At this juncture, Amy went shopping, with something on the list for me. So I made a silly video comparing a refurbished machine against an unrefurbished one (both sans brushroll)
The result annoyed me tbh, but the 1346 sounds beautiful!
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
Amy came back from town
[attachimg=3]
Which was good, as when washing it, all the paint flaked off the brushroll! So I cleaned it up with some sandpaper and wire wool...
[attachimg=4]
and over the afternoon gave it 7 coats of this!
which made it look jolly nice
[attachimg=5]
Time for some shiney new agitator bearings
[attachimg=6]
the wobble washers cleaned up
[attachimg=7]
Brush strips in
[attachimg=8]
End caps in
[attachimg=9]
-
Assemble one end of the axle as shown (mind which side is which, as one end is keyed, one isn't!
[attachimg=1]
Then build the other side up
[attachimg=2]
Take a nice new belt from the special spares box you keep in the shed
[attachimg=3]
A genuine Hoover spare
[attachimg=4]
Fit nice new brushroll springs either side
[attachimg=5]
[attachimg=6]
and fit the brushroll
[attachimg=7]
Fit the belt
[attachimg=8]
Fit the belt cover, which is sporting a lovely new Hoover Roundel (not quite the right size sadly, but beggars cant be choosers with unobtanium stuff!)
[attachimg=9]
And there we are! One Hoover Junior, working as it should.
Eva filmed me demonstrating it once done!
I've been typing for nearly 3 hours now, I'm off to bed, night!
-
Good lord, that was a marathon thread! Great job!
I imagine MVacs will be pleased.
This will really help me actually, I've got a practically identical 120 volt junior that needs this treatment.
Do you by chance know any way to help a brush bar for one of these that vibrates a bit too much?
-
Id start with bearings and belt first, if its not that then the brushroll could be off balance maybe? Find another to try?
-
What a bloody magic job by the motor whisperer! :bow:
And what a cracking thread, photos and videos! I'll be more than chuffed when this lands back at our place for the museum. It might even get a glass case. 8)
-
She deserves it! Just take the belt off after you've all had a good play so it doesnt strech in storage!
-
Good lord, that was a marathon thread! Great job!
I imagine MVacs will be pleased.
This will really help me actually, I've got a practically identical 120 volt junior that needs this treatment.
Do you by chance know any way to help a brush bar for one of these that vibrates a bit too much?
Or, thinking about it now I've had alot of coffee, the brushroll could be full of dust, which causes an imbalance when spun
I'd have it all apart, clean it all, then fit a new belt and try, then new bearings, then maybe check that the belt spindle isn't wobbling around (you should be able to see it with no belt fitted
-
Thanks Sam, I've had it apart before to clean it out and lube the bearings. I'll see about replacements, and I'll check the belt spindle later today. The junior was not very popular over here, and parts are not very easy to come by. I just might have an extra brushroll somewhere.
Can't wait to see the lone hoover in the midst of all those dysons!
-
If you narrow it down, im sure parts could be shipped over! It must be bloody rare over there! What model number is it?
-
Hey Sam
It looks awesome, I used to have a special grease gun for those bearings
This here is a 652 I restored a 4 years back. It was in terrible condition when I got it but looks like new now.
Gareth
-
stripped and painted and motor assembled
-
all finished , with some others
-
Wow Gareth, that looks amazing! Could do with asking your opinion on sanding and polishing plastic I have a 652C (not A, C) that has a terrible scratched hood, and needs paint. Paint is fine, apparently Ford ivory white is close enough for UK spec, but the hood will need sanding to fix.
A job for another day though sadly, got too many things to refurb and sell first!
-
never a problem to assist, I am busy with one aswell. sand with a 150 then 180 grit, followed by a 220 grit. Then I use a buffing wheel on a mounted drill to buff first with a heavy staring soap then a finishing soap then a finishing past. You have to change the buffing wheel with each change of compound.
-
This is one I am busy with for a good friend.