Dyson & Sebo Vacuum Cleaner Repair & Advice Forums
Other Vacuum Cleaners & Site Suggestions => Vintage Vacuum Cleaners & Appliances => Topic started by: beko1987 on September 07, 2015, 08:35:31 am
-
This is my current 'project'
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2MsJaxArcII/Ve07V-F6dkI/AAAAAAAAq8c/ndjI8l_kvjM/s512-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
It has its issues, but does run well. However...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RHK57g_C4FA/Ve07_nSa8XI/AAAAAAAAq_c/dC6jGVVV5To/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
it also has a ruddy big supressor fitted
which to my eye looks slightly expanded
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IIOUysB6l20/Ve08CldOSUI/AAAAAAAAq_k/-xApzms55Pw/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0K8rjCOXdgw/Ve08E9FP5FI/AAAAAAAAq_s/GFc5Oj3wIAw/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ciT_IfBDp_o/Ve09NlCouFI/AAAAAAAArEA/Nr9w5ghPeX8/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
So, rather than chop it out, what info do I need from the cap and what website do I go to and how do I search for a replacement? Won't sell it with a cap looking like that, and if one cant be found then I'll skip it as it was free anyway, but I thought I should have a go and see how hard it is to do!
I presume that new caps come with trailing leads, and I would just solder/crimp them to the existing cables?
-
Just email Q & give them the machine details, they should be able to provide a replacement. Other options are: RS, CPC / Farnell, Rapid electronics etc.
-
Cool, will try that.
What do I search for to make a start? RF Supressor, Motor Supressor and Motor RF supressor all bring up things that dont look right.
The closest I've found is http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/delta-suppression-filter-rg21x which says it's a Delta Supression Filter, and I need to check the values match up, then drive to Maplin cos there's one too close to bother with postage.
-
Need a better pic of the filter end, but it looks like an inline suppressor ( filter ). The delta suppressor listed is a parallel filter not inline. Search for electrical filter or inline suppressor. Euro part also stock them.
-
Interesting, thanks. I'll get better pictures tonight.
-
Hi Sam: When I did a blow up of the lead end picture, it looks like there are 3 leads not 4 as I first thought. Is that right ?.
-
It's an ERO F1740
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Iy3VZWFL72E/Ve3BfUguiuI/AAAAAAAArEc/jO1snzrpvZU/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h9RR_CQ2rlw/Ve3BhLW8UmI/AAAAAAAArEk/oESVGCfU5Kg/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XwUyzWiBESM/Ve3BiwnpxhI/AAAAAAAArEs/iCJOvZNE9kQ/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
I've had a quick look just now, and can find nothing similar, and don't know what the values mean to filter the Farnell site down.
There's a similar one on ebay, but the numbers dont match
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ERO-Capacitor-F1740-410-3591R-/201032449865?hash=item2ece77bf49 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ERO-Capacitor-F1740-410-3591R-/201032449865?hash=item2ece77bf49)
Although the ebay one looks a bit mis shapen as well, I'm wondering if its just how they came, rather than it being about to go pop.
Apparently, ERO are now Vishay Roederstein. A search on various places under that name doesnt bring anything up either that looks even remotely similar...
-
Hi Sam: I googled ERO F1740 plenty of hits but all 5 wire not 3.
In answer to your question: No they didn't come misshapen originally.
Where does the clear wire run to ?.
-
The clear wure runs all the way through the cleaner and bolts onto the motor housing, looks like an earth or something
-
If that's the case & it's only 3 wire, then the Maplin unit will do the job.
It's hard to tell the wiring, every time you take a picture of that end your finger gets in the way :icon_nod:
-
Sorry
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-likNc2Y18F8/Ve3tEH6rnxI/AAAAAAAArE8/LrppPMQ3Kpw/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3_12dD4MFPY/Ve3tFlKGA0I/AAAAAAAArFE/o0Zoc2hMlKc/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
Black and brown go to the motor wiring, see through one bolts to the motor. 2 spaded ends at the top connect to the switch, the 2 bare ones into the choc block to the mains lead.
I have the potential to get to a maplins fairly easily on thursday...
-
No probs: The Ferrite core would stay as is, the Delta Red should go to Brown & Black to Blue. The yellow goes in place of the clear wire, Jobs a goodun.
-
Nice, I'll get on that then!
It's all back together now, I've got tomorrow and weds off so I want to get a few more machines done to be sold, and it's 2 screws to get the wiring back out.
Works very well still, considering I left the motor alone as it looks like someones been in there before and it wont come apart again, and the belt had jumped to the end of the spindle and torn big grooves underneath (apparently they all do that sir)
-
Sorry forgot to answer 1 of your questions, the values show it has 3 capacitors inside: 1x 0.1 microfarad & 2 x 2700 picofarad with a voltage rating of 250v.
-
Well, Amy went shopping yesterday and swung past Maplins for me
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5wWJJP2wPzw/VfUsk19_RZI/AAAAAAAArNo/wxtm7asyAR0/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
The plug and socket are for the Miele, the delta supressor for the panasonic
It was the same size
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ays0wNEXlWc/VfUsjQzrVMI/AAAAAAAArNg/jttyKo_jQ9o/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
I wired it up as per Tech12's instructions (bit blurry as I was slightly drunk by this stage)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CrUCGZEqDAQ/VfUsiKMyjvI/AAAAAAAArNY/YUMa1-eLiZU/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
Just tried it now and she still works beautifully! Not doing a car boot today due to other things to do, may wang it on facebook for a tenner and get rid.
Full refurb thread can come soon now as its fixed!
-
Nicely done, glad it worked out OK. The original style closed end splices are available from eBay at quite good prices, sometimes makes things easier than a standard butt connector.
-
I need to get some of those, had a few instances now where they would have been handy. I did get the old ends off by squeezing them open, but they werent re-useable sadly.
I have a vac in bits now that I could do with 3 for, wont get any in time though.
-
If you have a TLC electrical store near you, they used to sell them in singles. When do you need them for ?.
-
Just a random comment.......
[attachimg=1]
Crimped connectors? :sick0012:
My domestic spark tells me they are [insert EU babble and some numbers here] approved, and he could use them in our house to join wires. I said, "not really mate" and flirted David up from the shop with a soldering iron and some heat shrink (which 'modern' sparks don't carry any more it seems).
On 12v stuff maybe (we used to use scotch-locks after all back in the day), but on mains, I would much rather use solder and heat shrink.
The investment is about a tenner, a score if you are being decadent, the learning curve less than 30 mins, its worth learning for rock solid mega-safe connections for the next decade or two. :icon_nod:
Tech12 might tell me I am out of date - I dunno - but I wouldn't be happy sending a machine out with crimps on it, even if I had crimped them myself and were happy they were quite safe. Solder and heat shrink - to me - seems like leagues above.
Once you see the satisfaction that a nicely soldered and heat shrunk joint brings, you will never go back. You will be flashing stranded wire with solder to wire plugs even.
-
You know what, I'm learning so much from this forum! Coming round to the 'removing supressors is bad' theory, and evidently my selection of connecting stuff isnt tip top.
OK, class this as a 'quick test to make sure it works', and I'll have a look at getting some of these connectors (they would be handy tbh, most modern toss is wired up with these).
Good job I'm not in a rush to sell it! Anyones gran need a lightweight vac that will outlast a DC24?
-
I'll still start the rebuild thread though, the pictures are cluttering up my phone!
-
No mate, your not totally wrong. But a properly crimped joint made with good quality connectors is perfectly safe for mains voltage & should last a long time, maybe not as long as a well soldered connection but for a good many years.
How often do you see the crimped connectors on say a Dyson motor or switch fail ?.
Your right it is easy to learn to solder & done properly soldering makes an excellent connection, the problem being: A seriously large amount of the people that learn to solder don't do a good enough job of it & the connections they make are not safe at 12v DC never mind Mains AC.
There's also a train of thought nowadays that soldering a cable connection can make it too brittle & prone to failure, a lot of car manufacturers will only allow crimped joints now for accessory fitting.
When you think about crimped joints on mains cables: Underground joint boxes use crimped connectors to join High or Low voltage, High current carrying cables. Compared to the amount of them installed in a pretty harsh environment, very few of them fail.
Your Sparks is Dead right: Very few Electricians nowadays carry a soldering iron, it would just sit in the van gathering dust. I've got one in my kit but the only time it comes out on site is to repair a pcb or re-solder a dry joint.
Stu: Your out of date :underchair: :evilgrin0002: (Sorry couldn't resist it ;) ) .
-
You say that, years ago when I still lived with Mum a joint blew up on the supply cables running up their road. When the emergency team got it all dug up and accessed a few hours later, it had taken out one of their massive joins, blew it right apart. There were some other wires running alongside it, and a few had a (bigger admittidly) join on using these and sealant. The cables attached to them blew apart but the connectors were charred but clinging on still!
-
Yep it does happen, but is more often than not due to other influences not a bad crimp.
-
These cables were for something else they said, just happened to be running past the big join that blew. Took them 7 hours to dig it out, re-connect and clean it up and get the manhole cover back down!
-
Once you see the satisfaction that a nicely soldered and heat shrunk joint brings, you will never go back. You will be flashing stranded wire with solder to wire plugs even.
Sorry mate: Soldering wire connections to plugs, Can't agree with you on that one. It's been proven that it creates an instant higher resistance connection. When you tighten a screw on to a soldered wire, because the solder is soft it tends to migrate away from the point of contact with the screw & over time this will get worse. If you notice: Manufacturers don't solder the wire end in their plugs anymore or when they leave prepared connection ends, they use hard crimped ferrules. It costs them more in the short term but it's safer in the long term.
I used to tin the ends on wires myself before fitting plugs, but gave up doing it years ago due to the bad connection problem.
-
Stu: Your out of date :underchair: :evilgrin0002: (Sorry couldn't resist it ;) ) .
I am going to go back to using KitKat tinfoil on fuses now. :-*
-
Stu: Your out of date :underchair: :evilgrin0002: (Sorry couldn't resist it ;) ) .
I am going to go back to using KitKat tinfoil on fuses now. :-*
Come on mate, didn't you know that went out with the ark ? ;D we use a bit of 2.5 nowadays, or if you really want to be posh. A cut down 6" nail works well :o :evilgrin0002:
-
A cut down 6" nail works well :o :evilgrin0002:
We used to use those to get some juice to refurb houses when the electric was off. ;D
-
I was lucky on those sort of jobs, I always had a selection of DNO service head fuses & carriers. So it was just plug & play ;)
-
bit of threaded rob cut to size works best.
-
bit of threaded rob cut to size works best.
Seen that a few times in back street garages. God knows why, but paint sprayers & body shops seem to be the worst offenders :o
-
I was lucky on those sort of jobs, I always had a selection of DNO service head fuses & carriers. So it was just plug & play ;)
My Dad is like that. We used to go in an empty house, speculate about calling Norweb to turn it on, and while we were talking he had the lights on with a big fat fuse he just happened to have in his box.
One time - years ago - a Norweb bloke knocked on the door and asked how we had power as he had cut it off three weeks before, and he was the only guy who did that area. We had space heaters drying plaster and concrete mixers going out back for brickies. I said "generators mate". He said "I cant hear them". "Oh they are the new quiet type, pal". He wanted to look, I said "not without the boss here, come back in an hour". When he came back we were in darkness and the brickies were in the nearby cafe. Meter full of fingerprints and no fuse. :biglaugh:
Even the Norweb bloke laughed. The early 90's were fun. Happy days!
-
There's also a train of thought nowadays that soldering a cable connection can make it too brittle & prone to failure,
I remembered when I was writing that we discussed it once before and you said that. I thought you would pick up on it. ;)
For me, solder is soft due to lead content, and common sense tells me driving a screw into something semi-solid is better than driving it into something (stranded wire) that will displace under tension even if twisted tight. I did chemistry and physics years ago and I am not buying a solder iron dissipating heat will weaken the structure of stranded copper enough to make it brittle. But I can see a poorly crimped joint will cause resistance and heat.
Don't get me wrong, I am not arguing with you on this, you are more up to date than me on much of this stuff. Why I value your opinion here so much. But we know with regs on all stuff like this (gas is worse) that next month, the EU may decree that soldered wires are better for plugs because XYZ study said so and now it is EU Babble Directive 2098754 and incorporated into the 277th electricians regs.
When I was having a downstairs bathroom done a while back, we had a laugh. I had a spark doing one job and a bathroom guy doing another. The bathroom guy was fitting spotlights in the bathroom. The spark was doing other stuff. Spark commented that the lights in the bathroom were not up to [insert EU babble] spec. Bathroom guy said it didn't matter as the surface above was concrete. They bickered for 30 minutes as the spark said it should be something with a 30 min burn time? Bathroom guy said the roof above - being concrete - was more like 30 HOURS so quit being a pussy as the regs referred to plasterboard and wood. Oh, it went on and on...... :coffee:
-
Sorry for triple post, but I just remembered this......
A couple of weeks ago, an old chap wandered in and asked for our extra long black flex (we have loads of them cheap with a kettle plug on the end - explained on the site). He wanted it for a DC14. I made sure he knew he had to cut off the plug and make the connections himself, he said he knew that, and he was an electrical engineer in his early days, so no worries...
I gave him the flex, he paid, he then produced his spade ends from his DC14. He asked how we join them on our machines. I said solder and heat shrink. After some babble about how he had few tools since [wife dying/divorce/whatever/I didn't listen], how much extra if we fitted his ends. I said a fiver, he said, "yes please".
A few minutes later he had his black flex with his DC14 ends on. Five quid changed hands.
He then spent about five minutes stood there ogling and caressing the soldered and heat shrunk joints as one would with a 34B model. :innocent:
-
To be honest mate, I wouldn't have a clue what the European directive number is. Back in the 90's I was working for a large company & we were having problems with loose plug pins on equipment, the vast majority were plugs with soldered wire ends. The company did it's own National survey & we were told to stop using this method when fitting plugs, then Manufacturers started going away from soldered ends & started using crimped ferrules for the same reasons.
Yes a badly crimped joint can cause heating & breakdown. But compared to the millions of crimped connections carrying current every day, the number that break down is miniscule.
Don't forget: A badly soldered joint can cause serious overheating problems as well & i've seen an awful lot more of those over the years than i have failed crimps.
At the end of the day it's not the termination method that's the problem, it's the way it's applied & the vast majority of people can't solder to save their lives.
As a little aside to the discussion: For Insurance purposes. Soldering even with an iron, can class as Hot work & most PL policies don't cover it. You need to specifically add it to the policy and pay the extra premiums. Likewise if your dabbling / working from home & making a bit of extra money from it, if you have an accident with a soldering iron your insurance may not cover you.
Guess how I found out ? >:(
Anyway don't knock crimped connector s too much, you sell machines with crimped connectors in every day ;)
-
I was lucky on those sort of jobs, I always had a selection of DNO service head fuses & carriers. So it was just plug & play ;)
My Dad is like that. We used to go in an empty house, speculate about calling Norweb to turn it on, and while we were talking he had the lights on with a big fat fuse he just happened to have in his box.
One time - years ago - a Norweb bloke knocked on the door and asked how we had power as he had cut it off three weeks before, and he was the only guy who did that area. We had space heaters drying plaster and concrete mixers going out back for brickies. I said "generators mate". He said "I cant hear them". "Oh they are the new quiet type, pal". He wanted to look, I said "not without the boss here, come back in an hour". When he came back we were in darkness and the brickies were in the nearby cafe. Meter full of fingerprints and no fuse. :biglaugh:
Even the Norweb bloke laughed. The early 90's were fun. Happy days!
Yep: No argument there, we had a local guy who was pretty good to me. Might have had something to do with the fact that he spent a couple of months training me :icon_nod:. Used to give me the gear & seal, I'd take all the readings and he'd just fill / sign the paperwork.
By the way: Your bathroom fitter was right, concrete is a bloody good Intumescent barrier in it's own right.
That's an unfortunate thing with any complex regs though, they're very open to misinterpretation.
-
Well, i went to the 2 car/hardware stores we have in town, and nothing. Even tried the bike shop as its an older bloke in, and he knew exactly what they were, but had nothing. He did have a very nice yellow hoover turbopower 2 as his shop vacuum though.
Bought 50 on ebay for 1.99 delivered in the end!
Also spent some money with mvacs, although not for anything exciting sadly!
-
You know what, I don't even bother looking in town for things like this, always go straight to the web. sad really.
-
I didnt hold out much hope tbh, but my suspicions were confirmed. Left 2 on the counter of one of them so at least theres only 1 more to throw away!
-
EBay is where I get most of mine, unless I'm stuck then it's a local Electrical wholesaler at 5 times the price.
Had a good deal on butt connectors the other day, on the bay again: 100 mixed for 1.48
The other thing it's always good to stock is fully insulated, Right angled Lucars in both Red & Blue.
A good ratchet crimper is handy as well.
-
butt connectors :underchair: :))
-
You rude boy ;D :thumbsup: Inline crimp connectors ;)
Beko: Forgot to ask what size you bought ?.
-
I know that, but I have a carry on mind ::)
-
I know that, but I have a carry on mind ::)
I won't ask who's butt you were thinking of connecting to ;)
-
oh matron :chuckle:
-
2.5mm, hopefully enough room to get multiple cables in
-
oh matron :chuckle:
Aha so it's Hattie Jacques you have the hot's for :boggleeye: :tiphat:, I like big girls but she was a bit too much for me ;)
-
2.5mm, hopefully enough room to get multiple cables in
I normally keep 8 & 10 awg. 10 awg equates to 2.5mm or 5.25mm sq so you should be fine.
-
There were 3 sizes, I picked the middle one!
-
They should be great for what you want. For crimping them, use the Blue terminal indent on the crimper & crimp twice. Once at the upper end of the tube & once at the flare.
-
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t7CgE-5_z2A/VfvHMT4IiNI/AAAAAAAArbI/F_4dydhnnYY/s720-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
They turned up! Did have an old coffee jar in mind but I'd need another 9 packs to fill it up I think, will have to find a smaller receptacle for them!
Can finish the MC-E44 now and get it advertised!
-
Excellent: If you have a Buyology anywhere near you, they do a small single compartment box for 99p that should fit them all and fit your toolbox. Pound stretcher do them as well.
What I normally do is keep a small multi compartment box with a good selection of connectors in my Site bag and another in the van kit so i've always got plenty of crimps out on site. Then a big double sided connector box in the workshop to re-stock from, i used to go through a fair amount of connectors when doing repairs & re-furbs of machines so always keep plenty.
-
I have an existing pack of crimps, used enough now to make one or 2 empty and fill them upi use the poundland compartment trays, got one for dyson bits and one for Hoover bits.
-
Unfortunately we haven't got a pound land down here that I know of :snivel: so can't go there. Did you buy a terminal kit to start you off or make it up yourself ?. You can often get some good bargains with terminals on eBay, just be careful to look at the specs if available.
-
I bought a kit. Still got all the ring terminals left, but after fitting a few car radios have no bullet connectors or spades left, only a few butt joints (snigger) too.
If I bought again Id just buy certain bits, dont want more unused crap around!
-
That's the problem with any kit, you usually get stuff you don't want or need. When I first started doing repairs, the guy teaching me gave me a terminal kit. It had the terminals that he used the most & apart from additions to go with more modern equipment has served me well. Doubt you need it but will post a list if it helps.
Ring terminals are rarely if ever used for vac repairs, but come in handy for other appliance repairs or auto electrics.
-
I bought a kit. Still got all the ring terminals left, but after fitting a few car radios have no bullet connectors or spades left, only a few butt joints (snigger) too.
If I bought again Id just buy certain bits, dont want more unused crap around!
;D you said butt :))
-
Giggidy
-
You pair are butt obsessed. :icon_nod:
-
I'm a Brest man myself 8)
-
Do you like stuffing?
-
I'm a Brest man myself 8)
I'm the same :thumbsup:
-
oh I love a good stuffing ;D
-
Recently, I've been working through all the Electrolux Dolphins I own. I pulled a Z2230 out of the shed yesterday, which ran very well. When I got to the motor though, I was a bit surprised
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--H-pDn1lb7k/VhobVvNwy3I/AAAAAAAAtco/Et_9UbYefYg/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-irB-FpHoxLs/VhobW_i4YtI/AAAAAAAAtcw/hUOVRchHOCA/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3VqU2ZN4sD8/VhobYP-YvzI/AAAAAAAAtc4/SmNyMHthkDY/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LMZG1l3NaFM/VhobaBfL3wI/AAAAAAAAtdA/PwfYQ_OsMVM/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1L8Y6s_dHcY/VhobbsZvFzI/AAAAAAAAtdI/WnKtH5G6OVI/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
Wire wise:
Blue - From the on/off switch to the LH of the supressor
Black - to the cord rewind
Red - Connects to the motor, not the supressor, goes to the speed control module
It earths directly to the motor via a big rivet and a metal clip that surrounds the cap.
I've had a google, and the only square capacitors I can find dont have spade terminals. Does anyone know of any square, spade termianaled supressors out there, or would the round Maplin ones connect up? There's enough space, I could 'adjust' the housing that held the square one to hodl the round one, possibly with a cable tie.
Any thoughts? Again, I did think of removing it completely but wasnt sure where to place the blue wire, so any thoughts?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AhRuc8FLGNc/VhoZ8jDYN9I/AAAAAAAAtWI/4zbDPZLjBXM/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg) look at the poor thing, it needs some love.
-
Ooh, forgot a key part...
The supressor conmects to the coil via the black wire side, coil wire clips into the spade terminal.
Other side of the coil goes to the red wire
The blue wire doesnt connect to the motor at all, just sits on the other side of the supp
-
Is there enough space to fit 1 of the Maplin filters where that came out of ?
-
Yes, i can cable tie it to the side of the motor, theres a fair bit of space in the motor housing.
Would one of those work then? I presume the earth needs to go onto the motor housing, then red to black (live?) and blue to blue (neutral), think thats what the maplin supressor looks like?
-
The Maplin one should do fine.
-
Sorry buddy: Forgot to answer part of your question. Red on Delta to Live, Blue or Black on Delta to Neutral & Yellow or Green on Delta to a solid connection on the motor frame. :thumbsup:
The Maplin unit has pretty standard values to suit most Vacuums & small motor driven appliances.
-
Thanks Tech! She mentioned popping to big town tomorrow as she gets paid and buying baby related stuff from mothercare, and I asked if she would possibly be able to pop into maplin to buy me some more filters... apparently it's the other side of town, a pain to get to, blah blah why can't I buy them online?
OK love, if it makes your life easier... giz ya card then...
-
No worries mate. :grinn:
-
It's a shame I;ve only found them at Maplin, their £3.29 each, would be happier to buy lots in bulk tbh as I'll need them! Still, being delivered in the week.
A different question if I may, would a 250Vac 3A switch run a 600w vacuum cleaner without catching fire or anything annoying like that?
-
Hi Sam: Of course you can ask mate, your cleaner will take about 2.67 amps when running. But draws a fair bit more on start up. Your switch will do the job but probably won't last that long.
You'd be safer using a 5 or 10a switch.
I'll have a look about for you & see if I can get the Delta's cheaper, you may have to buy a pack of 10 at a time though.
-
That would be great, cheers.
Ah re the switch. Its a specific style I need for an old 1950s cleaner, I bought the above mentioned one with the filters, but only as a 'why not' sort of thing. If it were to fail, would it do so in a pants changing way or with no drama? Id better post up what I mean when I get off the phone hadnt I!
-
Is it single pole ( 2 wire ) or double pole ( 4 wire ) ? If it's single pole then in all probability it will just weld it's contacts together & not turn off. Double pole though may arc over & go bang :snivel: & brown pants time. Do you have a picture of the switch ?
Is there a part number on the Delta filter ?
-
Mmm, not liking where this is going...
This is the switch
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/250vac-3a-locking-foot-switch-n84ar (http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/250vac-3a-locking-foot-switch-n84ar)
cant work out if its 6 pole or not, hoping the wire locations are easy to find, there's 4, 2 from the coil, 2 from somewhere else, cant remember now tbh
Old switch remains look like this, its an old Arrow job. I got all excited earlier as I found an identical one, 4 pole, 8 of them infact in my stepdads stash, but it's a toggle switch, not push switch
(Please dont shout at me :underchair:) this is how it was when I opened it up, and I left it like that and used it...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KyxhVlXW4oc/Vh1lzhP9j9I/AAAAAAAAtfo/gqDIkZsKPRo/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
The switch snapped the crimp between the steel plate on the right and the top part of the switch. You can just about see the remains of the old switch at the bottom
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tvfSgd8CqNo/Vh1l00dha6I/AAAAAAAAtfw/9U0dnuvoXQc/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
Top ring with the 3 tiny holes is how it connects and clamps to the machine, theres 3 holes through the machine of the body
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kQyrVrc8s6g/Vh1l2ShNzoI/AAAAAAAAtf4/_APnLOD6It0/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
This is the side I saw all the lovely incorrect switches laying, :censored:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bBz2Y9I9ZoE/Vh1l3ttPwdI/AAAAAAAAtgA/KSLNyOHeTdA/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
Would be nice to get it running again, it's very rare. Plan B is to bodge an electrolux switch in, which s 2 pole so would be connected up as per the choc block but MUCH neater, plan C is to connect it back up as per the choc block but MUCH neater, then fit an inline switch to the flex and have done with it...
-
Hi Sam: That's a Double pole changeover switch. To be honest: I wouldn't use it, it's a bit diddy for what you need & it's 1 of those that will give you heart failure if it goes. Why don't we have a look and see if we can find something a bit safer ? I don't mind having a look around for you, to see what I can find.
Don't worry about the internal wiring, we can get that sorted out between us.
-
Go on then, I can loose a fiver to ignorance! Let me know what measurements are needed, as along as it clamps the centre shank like that it will be ok, but needs to be that style of plunger for the pedal to hit it
-
Sorry mate don't see where ignorance comes in, your on a learning curve & made a mistake. It's something we've all done :grinn: The switch you've got would be more for a guitar foot pedal or something like that.
I'll drop a few emails around tomorrow for you & see what I can find.
-
Id best learn to play guitar then! (ill drop into stepdads stash for another day) or cancel the order if I can
-
Hey Sam: Just had a thought, try giving this guy a ring: David Caisson @ Vac Services 01254 395507. He may well be able to help you out as he repairs loads of older cleaners.
-
Sorry mate: :duh: It's David Casson not caisson
-
Hey buddy: Was looking around on the net today & happened to look at www.buy spares.co.UK
You might want to take a look under vacuum cleaner switches ;)
What's the make / model of the cleaner you need the switch for ?.
Forgot to ask: How's your better half doing ?
-
Hey Sam: Did you have any luck with the switch ?.
-
No movement on the switch I'm afraid, work was stupid busy thurs and fri, and I had a serious case of doing nowt thurs night. Amy was in hospital fri night with random baby pains, all was well, we got pizza at 1.30am when we got back. Today I have been changing an exhaust and re-building a caliper so it passes the MOT, and helping a mate change the discs and pads on his octavia.
Now, both are in bed, and I am watching Dream Theater Live in Japan 1995 on youtube on the telly, having a beer and having internet time. I have polished a dolphin though.
Well, I lie, bit of switch movement...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gQnRUe9hMas/ViLRKEwEJJI/AAAAAAAAtqE/KfyGZZFNcHo/s1023-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PFxSmJIuZzw/ViLRIkPkd-I/AAAAAAAAtp8/W5gY7YIX-u8/s1023-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
this stupid thing arrived. Double kick in the nuts is it's the wrong one anyway, I accidentally bought a momentum switch rather than a latching switch. Fired an email straight off which they responded to on thurs, after the thing had been shipped and packed. Even if it was the right one, lol at fitting that! The Parnell can stay in the wardrobe a bit longer.
Electrolux in need of a new cap question, mucho movement. Have I got this right?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gk5k6h3GzyY/ViLLR4mmp0I/AAAAAAAAthA/N6Iaf5hz124/s1023-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A2P4GuSohj0/ViLLJdVHOXI/AAAAAAAAtgg/sHxkFa36_MQ/s1023-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
The black does one to the cord reel. Red wire goes straight on the motor to half of the coil. Other half of the coil crimped onto the old cap
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DN9cQ7Zd7DI/ViLLNr4H5sI/AAAAAAAAtgw/zfYVbs8x-zk/s1023-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
The blue wire did sit on the other side of the cap, but with nothing else attached, just into the cap on the L, and black into and coil off of the R hand side
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8F4pyyLw-3s/ViLLPcM1YrI/AAAAAAAAtg4/wxJJYrM8u9M/s1023-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
Will connect like so. Red has no friend here
Not sure what/where the blue neutral would go tbh. Earth I may try and see if I have a crimp to just slot straight onto the bracket that earthed the old cap. Plan is to chop the old cap housing out a bit and cable tie the new cap to the side. If not it will fit in the housing just a bit loose
-
Hi Sam: Glad Amy is OK, Just connect it Red to live from switch. Black to neutral & Yellow to motor frame & it will do what's intended.
-
Red and black need to be swapped then, coolio, cheers!
-
No probs.
-
Got this wired up earlier! The new cap fitted very nicely once I pushed 2 holes through the old casing with a bradwl and hammer for cable ties. The black wires and coil wire are crimped with the end terminal crimps, and the whole crimp sits at the top of the inner motor housing poking out the top, not touching anything. Rest is more visible on the picture. The earth strap is a bit of a bodge, I widened a crimp to fit over the wider tang, then closed it up tight with some side cutters. Wont go anywhere fast
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qXU-OuyyjXM/ViQIXI0VAnI/AAAAAAAAt84/qwTUza0H49k/s1023-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
Red wire refitted too
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kr7hFGY1eXc/ViQIYt7WvhI/AAAAAAAAt9A/t19MAeMBfEw/s1023-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
Yet to see if it actually works though, will save that till tomorrow incase it explodes or something annoying like that...
-
If the Blue wire is the Live & the Black wire is the Neutral then there's no problem. Basically the filter just fits in parallel with the mains, but it needs to be as close as possible to the source of interference for best effect.
That's a pretty neat solution :thumbsup:
-
The blue wire is crimped on with a brown wire and comes from the switch. Theres 2 black and 1 red from the cord reel, one black goes to the motor and one goes to the pcb, and connects to the same ring on the cord reel so I assume its neutral, one red goes to the pcb then a red out to the switch on the other side and the red that clips onto the motor. I presume the pcb steps the live voltage up and down as needed by ots command then?
At the hospital now for the last appointment before the baby is here, will plug it in tomorrow.
Got 5 hoses, 4 filters and a load of my polishing pads in the washing machine at home too, hopefully that will finish clattering around by the time we get back!
-
Hope everything goes ok ;)
-
Thanks Tech!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9xj9BDxcrZo/ViUA0_4KSfI/AAAAAAAAuCc/mmXlxQUgFc0/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Hi-ubCd8v-U/ViUA3e_XSrI/AAAAAAAAuCk/NcyrTkieAlw/s800-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vPdS8VYWeA8/ViUA661g6gI/AAAAAAAAuC0/Zf1JHAz-HzY/s512-Ic42/upload_-1.jpg)
Just need the hose for the white one to dry, and the potentiometer to work on the purple ones hose when I pick that up in the week and 2 out of 4 dolphins will be restored!
-
Did you ring David Casson about a switch ?
-
Nope, not yet
-
No probs, let me know how you get on ;)