Picked this up from ebay a few weeks ago. Ended up going to a VERY posh house, big in and out gravel drive, 64 plate Tesla on charge on its proper charging port, all cars under 2 years old etc. Felt bad even bringing my car near them tbh but made sure I didnt blow any soot over them on the way out...
Wasnt too bad, but had NO suction at all, but didnt sound blocked.
This is a clutched model, so you can turn the brushroll on and off. Non clutched ones dont have anything here, and the brushroll is always on.
Dusty but in good condition
Cable off next
Hose and wand off
The release catch pops off the pivots from the bottom
This spring sits underneath it
The cap ontop of the wand removed by pulling it firmly off
There may or may not be a spring under it, not all machines have them I've found
The hose removed next
Back to the top, and the screw at the front of the switch housing comes off
Pushing from the back pops the clips out
Pulling slightly on both edges opens the housing up slightly and the switch cover falls out
The switch pulls out of the moulding
and the wires unplug (Blue to Blue, both browns to the switch)
The rubber boot pulls off the cable, which makes life easier removing the spine cable
Push the cable through to the back and pull the rest out
The rubber seal pulls off the chassis
The removeable bit of the changeover valve comes out next
If you squeeze the black part together sideways it seperates from the housing
Inside is a bog fat spring. The rubber seal pulls off the end of the black housing
Another rubber seal pulls off the chassis
Pre motor filter cover is removed now
Filter didnt look too bad. Also noticed that the rubber seal inside the filter housing was missing, which would explain the rubbish suction
I forgot to take a picture, but if you carefully pop the top cap off the centre bit, a very long spring pops out, and the sealing part of the release valve too.
Another seal off the chassis
The post motor filter cover pops off now
Filter wasnt too filthy tbh, seen worse
The diffuser can come out now
Clutch cover now. I've never really developed a knack for this, just lever it at the top and bottom until it cracks off and hope it doesnt split/crack the cover...
All done on top, time to flip it over
Wand blockage port off
and the plastic clip pops off from behind
Pop a vanity cap off one of the rear wheels
which reveals a little circlip
Blurry pic, but one can lever a small flatblade inside it and carefully pop it off the spindle
The wheel now pulls off
a washer sits between the wheel and chassis on both sides
Pull the axle and other wheel off the machine
Hold the other wheel, and give the axle a short sharp tap on the floor. It will pop the other glamour cap off, and the wheel can then be slid off the axle
leaving the other circlip on, no need to remove both
Brushroll area next
The edge cleaning brushes slide out of the baseplate
and the little wheels lever out with a screwdriver. These ones are fine, but if their worn replacements are dirt cheap!
Up with the belt now, and the brushroll comes out
End caps were full of rubbish
Grabbing the axle with some grips aids removing the other end cap
Using the axle, insert it into one of the brushroll bearings just enough so it doesnt actually come through the other side, and lever down. The bearing should flip up and be easily removed (this is do or die time for the brushroll, if it's weak, it'll crack. But that's probably a good thing, as if its weak enough to crack itll need replacing anyway)
You now want to remove the internal hose from the bottom of the changeover valve. It just pulls off the mounting point
Internal hose off, gently lever the top of the brushroll housing out of the lugs either side
The internal hose twists off the brushroll housing. If your machine doesnt hold itself to the floor very well, replace this bit! (I did on this machine). Instant fix, it acts as the spring to keep the floorhead touching the floor)
Onto the clutch cover now. Put the machine in the upright position for this, but still upside down. 3 screws, one buried deep under here
and 2 more here
and the cover pops off
the belt guide rod pulls out of the housing
pop the clutch to motor belt off the motor pulley
and a massive tug later the clutch will be out
No idea wether this dates the machine or just the clutch
Under each side of the bottom part are 2 circlips. Pop the end out and the rest will follow
lay the machine as so
and pull each end out in unison and the whole lot lifts away
These 2 clips sit around each stub and provide the pivot for the bottom housing
The remains of the changeover valve come out next. Pop both the tabs down (one on the other side too, get-at-able with a screwdriver)
and pull the latch out
This bit is fiddly. Pull the changeover valve top part out so it clears the housing
and gently pop these clips out
Another seal is removed
4 screws and the motor assembly comes off. Pull the spine wire through the chassis with it
There will be one screw left on the chassis
Pull the filter housing clip forwards slightly
and wriggle the elbow peice out over the top of it
Position your torx driver over the back of the filter housing clip as shown
and smack it hard with something. The clip will fly out of the housing then!
The chassis is now stripped!
Motor now. Pull the housing off the front from the egdes and over the motor housing
Prise the 4 clips up one by one and remove the motor housing cover
A rubber seal comes off this bit too
Push the cable grommit into the housing, then position the motor onto the belt spindle, and push down hard
This will push the motor up a bit, enabling you to grab the motor top seal and pull it out, bringing the cable with it (hence why I removed the neutral cable boot when we took the switch out, so it fits through this hole!)
The top rubber pulls off
as does the fancase rubber
Leaving an empty motor housing
Onto the cyclone
Open the bottom flap and remove the bin from the cyclone
By holding the bin under your arm and squeezing, the clips bend just enough to pop the bottom flap off
Onto the top now, and remove these three screws. Their sometimes security torx screws, which can be annoying.
The cyclone top and release rod withdraw from the cyclone
The last screw is hiding under here
which holds the release rod on
The release trigger falls out of the top now
Pull each fin of the cyclone in turn until you hear a click. After the third click, the fins should fall out
The inner cyclone seal sits inside the cage
The shroud pulls off easily now
One last seal to remove
and we are disassembled!
Grab another vac and clean up before SWMBO notices (unless you are SWMBO, in which case bask in your glory!). Then, wash all the plastics in hot soapy water, then leave to dry. The cyclone unit can take a day or two, leave it somewhere hot like an airing cupboard. Clean all the rubber seals with a baby wipe/thick cloth until they squeak again!
Wipe the cables down, and if the motor is a bit dusty, try and airline it off, or vac it off/soft brush and sharp blowing onto it to dislodge the worst of it.