Dyson DC04i - Stripdown and Refurb

[beko1987]

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A few months ago, one of our team managers mentioned that her dyson hose had broken, so she bought a new one...
Fast forward to last thursday, and she told me it was in the back of her car. When she left, I popped with her and grabbed it

Older Dysons came in 2 flavours, Clutched, and Non Clutched.

Non clutched looks like this



And clutched models look like this



If you have a clutch in front of you, you want this thread: https://manchestervacs.co.uk/DysonForum/index.php/topic,1553.0.html

Anyway, I bought this dyson into the office as I had an hour left (everyones used to me and vacuum cleaners so not an eyelid was batted...)



and took it home



It was surprisingly non faded! Tayyab tells me it's a later one, due to the lack of stickers on the cyclone, the lime green handle top, lack of wand cap spring and that the plastics are different being a later one so no fading like the earlier models!





Cyclone off first, and put to one side



Cord off



Wand off



Ah yea, forgot about the broken hose



Had a crevice tool



To remove the hose, grab your trusty flatblade, and push in and up on this tab



Which will pop the hose out



Now you can remove the hose, and in my case, sling it in the bin. Put to one side, or run it through the washing machine on a long hot wash with a few towels and the washable filter that sits in the top of the cyclone.

Onto the wand. The wand cap pulls off from one side then falls off





On most other DC04's there is a metal spring here that clips into 2 tiny holes either side of the wand. Remove this if you have it

Around to the front, and lever off one side of the wand release button





and remove it



Pop the spring to one side.

This next bit I almost advise you DO NOT DO, as the risk of borkage is high, and these wand caps are blummin expensive and rare now... but it does lever out from the back



and then lifts off from the front (dont pull it off)

Again, not really needed but I'll cover it for completeness, if you pop this cap off the top cord hook



and undo the large torx screw that sits under the lithium grease



You get the top cord hook off



This photo came out blurry which was a shame but the wand is now complete!



Next, you need to obtain a lovely DC04 Switch removal tool (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC04-spares.html/DC04-switch-removal-tool







It can be a b :censored:d, not gonna lie, but it will come out!

You can now remove the screw holding the switch assembly in place



and the switch assembly lifts out



You could strip this part out as well, but they do break easily when removing the switch so I never do anymore. All you need to do is disconnect the neutral wire



Then remove the one live connector from the switch



Unclip the wires from the switch housing



and you should be free

Cable off!



You will need to remove the spade terminal cover off the live wire (no idea why the neutral is showing, sorry!) to get the spine cable out. It does pop out by inserting the switch removal driver into the back of the connector and levering up the locking tab, it locks on the non flat side of the terminal.



Remove the chassis seals









Moving down the machine, pop the post motor filter cover off using the handy lug for just this purpose!



This allows access to the post motor filter



Which really SHOULD NOT be this black!





Next up is the LH Blockage removal assembly. Squeeze both tabs in



and out it comes



To remove the lower part, you hold it like so, the opposite sides to the locking tabs



then squeeze and pull and it will distort away from the tabs and pull off



This then allows you to strip it down as so, the rubber seal pulls off the end of the lower housing



Remove the chassis seal





The seal is held on by a big plastic circlip



This pulls off



Moving underneath the machine, remove the lower blockage removal assembly (this unblocks the wand if you block it via the hose...)





A quick twist of the green part removes it from the u bend if you are being anal about it...

Next is the base plate, and you need to have the machine in this position to start with



because once the locking tabs are undone the base plate comes away like so, and clearance is needed



The base plate lifts away now



There are 2 seals on the baseplate. They may be quite fragile nowadays, and you must not loose them. They do lift out if needed, or can stay in and not harm anyone.





Remove the blockage if you spot one



You will now see the belt winking at you. Pop it off the motor spindle with a screwdriver or your finger





The brushroll lifts out of the housing now



The end caps can be removed now. If you hold both ends and twist/pull, one end will come off. Withdraw the axle and remaining end cap, hold the axle in a vice/molegrips and twist the other end cap off



The bearings sit inside the brushroll



Insert the axle just into the bearing enough so it doesnt come too far out the other side and lever



Damn flash flare, sorry



And out



This brushroll has the common wear on one side, with the other side fine



You could look at replacing it (https://manchestervacs.co.uk/Dyson/DC04-spares.html/brushroll-non-clutch-dc04-dc07-dc14) but it does sound fine when back together, with no vibrations, and the overall brushroll is good. You'll have to make the call.

Now, back underneath and pull the little hose off the machine. The hose may come away from the grey end, pull the grey end off as well.





Now, very carefully rotate the brushroll housing around and lever it out of either end with something, being careful not to snap the locating tabs on the main cleaner housing





The internal hose unscrews from the brushroll housing, and needs to go in here



Now, get yer flatblade out and pop an edge of these locking circlips up





and remove it



Do the same on the other side



Lay the cleaner like so, then raise it slightly so the head flops down even further still. Whislt still in this position, you need to grab each edge by where it pivots



at the same time and it lifts off





Next, we need to work on the changeover valve. Start by popping the 2 small tabs holding the locking part in place



Push in and down and it moves the part away so it doesnt pop back in. Pull it out from underneath with your fingers



This bit is fun... Whilst gently pulling the top part away from the chassis, push up slightly underneath the black part so there's a gap enough for you to get the screwdriver in each end. Pop the tabs up gently



The black part should lift up once the grey part is clear of the chassis, but then get stuck. Slide the grey part out from the front, then wriggle the black part out, it will catch on the seal underneath



Pull the seal off the diverter valve, this is where the wand blockage u bend connects to



Either side of the chassis, where we pulled the front head off are 2 black locating rings. They pull out easily

[beko1987]

Wheels now. Lever one of the vanity caps off





Lever the circlip off



and remove the wheel



Remove the 1 or 2 small washers that sit behind each wheel. Withdraw the axle and other wheel from the other side



To get the other wheel off, hold it by the wheel and smack the axle down onto the floor gently, it will pop the vanity cap off, and the wheel will slide off the axle, no need to remove the other circlip on the other end of the axle.

That done, pull the spine cable out of the chassis





Undo all the screws visible on the top of the motor housing, and it should fall off the chassis



There is a removable part of the airflow channel that can come out now. be VERY careful with the seal, 8 out of 10 I do are perished and snapped, the parts do glue together if you cant find another seal though...





The motor housing has a cover on it



Pull the back edges out and it slides off from the front



The motor is held in with a locking ring. Pop each tab out and it comes off easily





Push this part of the cable in slightly so the rubber end clears the housing





To remove the motor, push down on the housing with the belt spindle on the floor, this will pop the motor up slightly



The motor now pulls out from above



Retreive the metal belt guard from the motor mount

Remove the top motor mount



and the fancase motor mount







This motor is only in the non clutched DC04, all other dc04s, 7s and 14s use the common YDK. A YDK can be fitted I think but you need the YDK motor mounts too.

Undo the screws holding the diffuser onto the motor housing



and lift the diffuser out



Nearly there, onto the Cyclone unit now!



Open and empty the bin as usual



Remove the inner cone from the bin



Pull the 'Do Not Remove' seal from the top of the cone



and the smaller seal from the bottom of the cone



Next, open the filter lid on the top



and using a flat blade, pop the locating lugs off one side and remove the lid from the main unit





The handle is held on with 2 screws from underneath. Remove the screws and the handle just slides out



Be VERY careful with this bit too, non faded ones are hens teeth, they get really fragile with age and fading



This is the filter release catch, with its small spring





The filter wasnt too bad, will wash up well



Under the filter are the last 2 screws on the machine



The top cyclone and shroud slide out, possibly taking the bin to housing seal with it as it has done here



This is a messy part, you may want to pop outside for this...

Hold the shroud and cone very firmly by the shroud with both hands



and smack it hard on somethign soft but firm (the lawn, bit of old carpet etc) with enough force to crack the shroud off the cone, but not so much force it shatters the diffuser at the end of the cone...



There is a seal at the top of the shroud



This is the seal that may fall out when you remove the shroud and cone



Never EVER remove this peice, one of the little plastic lugs WILL snap on you, scrapping the part



Lastly is the bleed valve



With some VERY careful levering, the outer cover will pop out





With even more careful levering at the point shown, pop the valve out of the cover. It's held in with a big clip, this may snap off but even if it does the valve glues back into place well enough





To strip the valve, first pop the rear grey cover off



Under there, you need to pull the little rubber/plastic bit off, there's a spring underneath so be careful



It falls apart then



I never normally do this either but a sharp tap with a hammer and broad torx bit releases the little yellow bit





and there we go, the DC04 is componentised. Rebuild pics coming soon!

[Tech12]

You sir are a complete vandal

[beko1987]

Hehe thanks! There's always a job thats made easier with a hammer.

Anyhoo, re-assembly! So, it's all washed, you've sat down infront of the sweeney and polished all the marks off, and cleaned the rubbers and are now ready for reassembly.







I'm not reassembling this in the same order as the stripdown, I forgot I was going to write a thread, so followed my usual order of events

Which starts with the motor!



A light smear of grease around the inner of the motor housing greatly assists in the refitting of the motor



Top mount refitted



This lines up with these locating pegs inside the motor housing



Fancase seal on



Refit the belt guard to the motor housing



Feed the cable into the motor housing



and push it home, making sure the pegs hit the holes and it goes fully in, with the cable grommit protruding out as it should



The motor should protrude a bit



As the retaining ring



Holds it all in place!



The motor housing cover trim snaps back onto the motor housing





You need the chassis now



and this duct



The seal is a pain to get to stay on, and I wouldnt think any less of you if you glued it on in frustration, but it is doable. Once refitted, it should be snug, as the screw mounting locates onto the chassis in the correct way so the motor housing lines up



A smear of grease on the motor rubber helps here, as you need to slide the motor assembly into place and past the end of that duct



Feed the spine cable back into place and out of the top of the chassis

Diffuser next







Changeover valve now



Assembled as above, so the seal on and the black part slid into the grey part, it will go in. Insert the back lugs first, manouver the grey part under the chassis points and it should all snap into place.





Refit the circlip



And then the seal. This is easier if you fit the top part first



Then rotate the whole seal/circlip assembly carefully round and fit the now-top part too

Re-assemble the removeable part of the changeover valve now. Refit the seal to the bottom of the grey part



Refit the chunky spring



and slide the 2 halves together. The bottom but has to be the right way round or it wont fit into the cleaner. You can offer it up off the machine to check before fitting, or just unclip and rotate it if incorrect





Time to refit this little chap, it pushes up from underneath



Refit the black pivot guides





Next, grab a nice new post motor filter



Lob an air freshener under the filter



Fit the filter



Fit the filter housing



I smear a drop of grease on the black pivot guides



then refit the housing, you need to pull both sides out again and drop over the pivot points. Fingers may be trapped, be prepared...



Be sure that the changeover valve isnt fouling the front housing, below is how it should look



Fit both retaining rings



Onto the brushroll housing next



Crack open a fresh internal hose and screw it on



Fit the hose first to the changeover valve, then fit the brushroll housing to the cleaner head.



Take a fresh belt





Next, grab the brushroll bearings we removed earlier, and using a small flatblade driver (or the switch removal tool), pop the black rings off either side of each bearing



Scrape out all the dried out grease, and re-pack with fresh



Pop the black caps back on, rotate it by hand to bed the grease in and re-assemble!











Make sure the edge bristles are at the same orientation, as they fit into the brushroll housing.

Fit the brushroll and belt to the housing



You now need to push/lift the belt over the motor spindle. It's do-able, but can be tough. Once done, rotate the brushroll by hand a few turns to centre the belt up everywhere.



Baseplate back on next





Back on with the wheels



Back on with the lower u-bend





Looking like a DC04 again!



Refit the top chassis seals



Wire the mains cable back up to the chassis cable. If you offer the housing up to the chassis, the part that starts to get thicker needs to be above the hole in the chassis, so the thin park fits through the cutout for the cable grommit, then the whole thing pushes down. Offering the cable hodler up to the housing, and noting where the cables need to start from helps here.





Take your hose (or your last clutchless DC04 hose you have  and fit it to the machine



Cord hook back onto the wand



Top cap back on, slide the front in first then push down at the back, manipulating the tabs to slot in



Wand cap back on



wand release catch back in. Insert the top first, as it locates in a cut out, then push each of the sides at the bottom in



All done, put the hose on the wand, fit the wand and wind the cable up!



Cyclone now! Fit the small seal to the top of the shroud



Snap the shroud back onto the cone (its easier than getting it off!)



Release valve now. The all palstic little cap fits into the seal as below



The black cage sits on top of this, and the spring sits inside, that little grey part stops the spring from coming out of the other side



The rubber and plastic part snaps onto the middle and holds it all together



Fit it back into the cyclone housing

Then drop the top cover on and snap into place



If you removed the little yellow insert, re-fit it with a drop of glue now.

Inser the shroud and inner cone into the top housing, maning sure the screw holes line it. It should only go in one way, as there is a cut out for the release valve internally. Screw it up.



Refit the top housing to bin seal around the bottom of the housing



Time to fit the top handle of the cyclone now. The small spring does hold onto the release elever fairly well, so you dont have to worry about that falling off. Locate the pivot points and spring intheir little places, then hold it all down with your thumb on one hand



and then lower the handle down onto it all



Fit the screws quickly to stop the spring popping everything back out again

Take your nicely washed filter, or a new one (or a previously washed one as I have here, with only mild staining...)





Close the handle, and the top of the cyclone is done!



Fit the lower seal to the bin insert



then the top seal, ensuring it is pushed down properly. It 'snaps' into place in a rubbery sort of way



You may need to moisten the lower seal to ensure it doesnt snag when you lower the inner into the bin now it's all clean and will grip the rubber. Ensure it's pushed in fully all the way round





Refit the cyclone



Grab your tools, or a new set if youve bought one



And done, enjoy your as-new DC04!





And add it to the rest...

[Parwaz7862]

Very nice! Really detailed and I enjoyed reading it all, lol.

[Tech12]

Nice job, just hope she appreciates all the hard work you put in 

[beko1987]

Ah this is a selling one,  she bought something else a while ago,  despite me saying I would sort her out with a hose! Hey ho!

Had interest at £55, will see if it gets picked up in the week!

[Tech12]

They'd be getting a bargain after what you've done to it, good luck with the sale.

[beko1987]

That's the normal process.  Could do that in 35 mins to stripped,  45 mins for washing and packing the airing cupboard,  then another night 40 mins polishing it all and doing the seals,  then 40 mins reassembling.

Takes a surprisingly large amount of time doing the photos and step by steps! Then 2 odd hours typing it all oit,  copying the text snd links into word incase the session times out and I loose it all,  having to chop it up due to the character limit and posting it!

[Dyson2000]

So Clean, Great Work! . I noticed you put a DC01 video on YouTube. that sounds exactly like mine.

[beko1987]

Well this went last night! A chap who my girlfriend knows (she used to babysit his kids when they were younger, they dont remember her now) came round last night and part exchanged another DC04, which is also surprisingly clean and unfaded! Has a stupid aftermarket hose on that I want to change, but would need to dig some unclean ones out of the shed and get them washed, and not sure when I'll get the time to do that, so may just have to keep the pattern hose on..

So, £40 and this, deal done



I've already done a clutched DC04 rebuild thread, so wont be doing another one!

[beko1987]

So Clean, Great Work! . I noticed you put a DC01 video on YouTube. that sounds exactly like mine.

Is that the DC01 Standard that sounds very loud? If so, the base plate was catching on the belt slightly due to a broken screw fastner causing it to sit very slightly on the piss. Some quick stanley blade action had the offending peice removed and she is fairly silent once more!

Got a DC01 Absolute+ to do next, but want a new cleaner head and hepa filter for it before I start...