Dyson DC39 - Stripdown and Refurb

[nick2960]

Thank you Beko1987, I had a 'first' shot yesterday, cable had been cut off! Major pain to get inside the cable rewind mechanism. I have two more to play with though and should get one decent one from all of them (I hope)

[Gilcleya]

Hello, I bought a DC39 in the US and moved later to Brazil and Dyson doen’t have a repair service here. The thing is the original motor burned out after 4 years, so I waited until my next trip to the US and bought 2 new motors and HEPA filters (just in case), research online how to change it and voilá, all was great in the world again! 
Four months later, the second motor burned out and I tought it was odd because it was so soon, so surelly I did something wrong so I started researching again and came upon this post and I believe I discovered the issue.
In the picture bellow you have a black plastic piece that my DC39 doesn’t have. (I’m sure of it because in the first strip down there weren’t any spare parts left after I reassembled the machine)
Can you, please, tell me what it is and where can I buy it?
Thanks

[beko1987]

That's the big rubber housing that sandwiches the motor into the housing, clips onto the top of the motor using the holes you can see. Did you take it off the old motor? Possibly a bit late if you didnt...

However that by itself wouldn't have caused the motor to burn out, although I'm amazed it didnt move about in the housing due to lack of clamping action!

Is the voltage and Hz of the supply the same between the USA and Brazil?

Send Mvacs a message (there'll be a contact us form on the main shop page) and point them here and see if they have a rubber they can post out to you!

[Gilcleya]

Thanks! Yes the voltage and Hz are the same. The motor didn’t moved about in the housing because there are 2 “pins” on it where I attached the motor, as you can see in the picture.

[panabear57]

When it comes to removing the Hepa Filter Module, disconnect the wire leads, rotate the filter module clockwise until it comes loose from the upper unit.  Reverse the steps to attach the new Hepa Module.  To free the filter module from the motor, carefully pull the wires with the grommet through the hole.  Then it is completely free.

It helps to take pictures of exactly where the wires are routed.

I found this by studying the center of filter "cage".

Thanks.

[ringer]

please how do i get the filter-and-flex unit out of the top housing?
I removed 3 screws (park unit, top handle x 2) The original posting says:

To release the motor and filter from the top housing, prise the locating lug out on each side

(this is about 5 pics below that lovely child). Presumably you insert a screwdriver
but where? and which way do you move it? Should I drill holes in the lugs to
weaken them?

thank you

[ringer]

Thanks to Men In Sheds, who solved my problem.
If asked I will post details.

[MVacs]

Thanks to Men In Sheds, who solved my problem.
If asked I will post details.

Yes, share the knowledge please. 

[ringer]

Yes, share the knowledge please. 

Unfortunately I have re-assembled the vac. So I will have to reply from (unreliable)
memory. Apologies for errors. Also sorry about the length but I had great difficulty.

I refer to Beko's photos as P0, P1 etc: P0 is the child with a hat.

After removing the lower shell (P2) I suggest to mark the motorbox & filter in alignment
and tie them together with sticky tape.

Remove 2 screws (call them S1) under the handle (P6) & 2 more (S2) under the park
bracket (P7)

Next: upper shell. This is what I call a "2 latch" problem.  You want to separate X from Y,
held by 2 latches (call these  L1  and  L2). You must:

1. depress L1
2. separate  X  &  Y  part way
3. Prevent  L1  re-engaging while you tackle   L2
4. not break anything.



Here I need to insert a diagram. I chose the file and inline image &
preview shows a blank square with a file name in a  non-existent 
folder. If some kind person will tell me how to insert images, I will
continue ....

[MVacs]

Theres info here. 

[ringer]

Theres info here. 

CLANG!! it seems that my diagram was in my post, I couldnt see it in preview. Anyway thank you for your advice.

Continuing:

P5 shows one latch.  fig 1 shows it edge on in false colour:
blue = X = part of top shell
green = Y = rewinder.

I cannot remember exactly what I did, it was something like:

insert a knife blade at A. This is about  2mm above the bottom edge of Y
and a screwdriver at B
Turn this in the direction marked C, this should release the latch
Insert a 2nd screwdriver at  A  and twist.
Put a  M8  (?? or M6? ) bolt into the hole in  X .
This should stop  L1  re-engaging while you tackle  L2 .

This required much more force than was happy with. Sorry I have no idea how
to not break things. If it did break I would glue it, then cut a strip of very thin
steel e.g. Meccano & glue that over the break.

re-assembly is also difficult. When I push  X  down onto  Y  the latches dont catch.
I think this is because Y  also moves down. I did succeed but I now think I did it wrong.
The right way is to refit  S1  &  S2  & screw tight. If this works it is better than what
I actually did.

To be continued  ...

[ringer]

Continuing from my prev post:  After removing the top shell:

Observe the pedal springs ( P18, P22). Before you remove the pedals, stick
some tape to these springs, which will otherwise jump off & hide. I discovered
this the hard way.

Next: disconnect the motor wires. P9 & P18 show the wires that run around
the rewinder. Pull these out of their clips: this makes enough slack that you
can pull the neutral junction box out of its socket under the safety valve. Pull
the neutral terminals apart. This needs some force. Lever them apart with bent
nose pliers.  Be sure to grip the terminals not the wires. If you pull a wire off
a terminal, that is a difficult repair. Pull the switched-live terminal off the switch.

Strictly speaking these wires are wrong colours. You should apply bits of
tape to label them in the correct colours: (live = brown, N = blue).  Also
you should check that the switch interrupts live.



Fig 2 (I hope!) shows one of the grommets on the motor wires. Push down in
the direction of the arrows to un-thread the grommets towards the motor.
and then you can detach the motorbox. 

Re-assembly: I would glue the buffers onto the pins on the motorbox.  Not
Gorilla glue but only a dab of something light, it only has to last 5 minutes.
And I would tape the motorbox to the filter. It is an awful nuisance if it falls
out while you are fitting the shells.

Next: P9 shows the cable emerging through a saucer in a ring that is latched
onto the filter. Tape the cable to the rewind spool to stop it unwinding. Un-latch
the ring and then **at last** you can twist the filter & take it off the rewinder.

I think that the DC39 is a **very** bad design compared to other Dysons.
Changing the post filter is a routine task. On a DC04 you just lever open a hatch
& lift it out.  On a DC39 it is insanely difficult. And filters cost £4.50 for DC04,
£40 for DC39. If the cable gets damaged, it must be replaced & does anybody
on this Forum know how?