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« Last post by macman on Yesterday at 10:06:10 pm »
You are quite correct: I was wrong about the motor. When I stripped the gearbox, I realised that the drive shaft metal cog is bevelled: the DC25 is straight. The actual motor itself is the same model number, which is why I thought they could be swapped.
I have continuity tested the yoke loom and that is OK. Next job is to swap the motor you just sent me and see if that cures it.
If not, it must be the PCB or microswitch: the former has no signs of damage though.
But I still do not understand how the continuity can be reversed on the microswitch loop, this makes no sense.
And I can't see how to access the microswitch housing: does the yoke have to come off first?
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« Last post by MVacs on Yesterday at 08:55:02 pm »
I found that the motor is the same as that in the DC25 (Johnson DC771(2). Assuming the gearbox can be swapped over directly, I'm going to rebuild it with a used DC25 motor to see if that solves it.
I seem to recall the cog differs. IIRC the DC25 motor won't run a DC15. What you describe does sound like a duff motor. But that loom is notorious too. Although, we had one this week where the motor was playing up and the gearbox was clogged up with crap. A strip down and clean solved it.
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« Last post by macman on May 17, 2024, 01:11:14 pm »
I now think that the issue with this machine may be the recline microswitch, not the brushroll motor.
I have tested the continuity on the microswitch loop, and, weirdly, it seems to be the wrong way around! With the wheels up, there is no continuity. With the wheels down, there is continuity. Surely this should be the other way around?
I'm also unclear about which other components need to be removed to access the microswitch: does the whole yoke have to come off first? I have studied Beko's stripdown guide, but not quite clear which sequence to follow.
Can anyone help please? This one is really baffling me.
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« Last post by macman on May 15, 2024, 07:34:25 am »
It's not the yoke loom, I have tested the continuity. It's not movement as such that stops it (i.e. waggling the handle), but pressure on the brushroll when placed on a carpet and pushed. On a hard floor it spins freely. So I suspect the motor is failing under load.
After stripping the head, I found that the motor is the same as that in the DC25 (Johnson DC771(2). Assuming the gearbox can be swapped over directly, I'm going to rebuild it with a used DC25 motor to see if that solves it.
Will also check the PCB output, which should be around 320V DC, same as the DC25?
If a motor swap doesn't fix it, then it can only be the PCB failing under load, as you suggest.
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« Last post by mmjojomm on May 15, 2024, 12:21:24 am »
Hi All, as per the title.
I understand the fittings are different but if the length is roughly the same and the diameter is the same I can refit both ends with no problem. The old one is splitting now quite often which results in me shortening it every so often and it's quite a mission to find a replacement that doesn't cost 100 quid.
thanks
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« Last post by Dysonboy on May 15, 2024, 12:15:17 am »
Only the second DC15 I've ever seen, and what a complex beast it is!
This one has has an intermittent brushroll fault: it starts up, but then stops as soon as the machine is pushed forwards.
Could be a faulty PCB, a break in the yoke loom, or (I hope not) a failing brushroll motor.
What voltage should I be getting off the PCB motor terminals with the machine reclined please (I'm assuming it's a DC motor)?
if it’s stopping with movement it will be the wiring loom damaged creating loss of connection at certain point. If it were the PCB it would work point blank, or would struggle with load, not movement.
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« Last post by macman on May 13, 2024, 05:38:22 pm »
Only the second DC15 I've ever seen, and what a complex beast it is!
This one has has an intermittent brushroll fault: it starts up, but then stops as soon as the machine is pushed forwards.
Could be a faulty PCB, a break in the yoke loom, or (I hope not) a failing brushroll motor.
What voltage should I be getting off the PCB motor terminals with the machine reclined please (I'm assuming it's a DC motor)?
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« Last post by MVacs on May 13, 2024, 12:47:41 pm »
Hello Jeff, I split your post off and made it a topic. If the machine has never had a brushroll, and especially if it has a white bristle brushroll, start by replacing that. That fixes most height issues. We have an article on that here: Height control and hard to push issues on a Sebo X4There are other possibilities, but a new brushroll is always the place to start.
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« Last post by JeffW on May 12, 2024, 11:26:30 pm »
Hi There, we have a Sebo X4 somewhere north of 15 years old and needing a bit of TLC. I have been researching replacements and found Manchester Vacs. I had decided to buy a new X7 pet or E3 BUT reading info on this site and given I don’t like waste, I wanted to try and revitalise the X4.
Easy things are new roller brush, cable, and extension hose. Would like to try one of the Sebo or Dyson mini turbo heads for the stairs as well. The issue of concern is that the auto height does not work correctly. I was going to replace the servo BUT now I know that brush wear can be an issue as well as maybe one of the other two boards, I was hoping someone on here could advise me how to trouble shoot. No point in buying any parts if I can’t get the height adjust working again. I should add I replaced the servo some years back, worked better for a while (not as well as new) and then not!
X4 has been fantastic and had a heavy shift, dont feel she owes us anything but I’d love to get her back to as new condition. Any guidance or advice much appreciated.
Cheers
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« Last post by MVacs on May 11, 2024, 12:42:58 pm »
Sebo introduced a new model of vacuum in North America, it's called the CE12. So of course, we had to import one and have a look at it.  There a topic on it >>here on the forum<< and that has links to our blog article and unboxing and floor test video.
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